Kit components

[Richardab]

Newbee question here!

Most conversion kits come with all sorts of components in addition to the motor/battery/controller, ie PAS, throttle, brake levers, LCD etc.

Is it possible to omit some of the components to have a simple, visually tidier installation. For example can a PAS be the only speed actuator, why are switched brakes required if the PAS stops power when you stop peddling. Is the LCD showing stuff you need to know all the time. Are there settings in it that need to be adjusted on the go or could it be a hidden/discrete mode switch.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The LCDs normally give 5 different levels of assist, so you can,t change the power without one. Occasionally, there are some settings you need to do through the LCD when you first fit the kit. Also you can set the default power level with the LCD, then remove it, but you'd need to reconnect it to change the power. The throttle is optional and independent, so you can use it with or without the PAS. The brake switches are also optional. They are useful sometimes when you want to but the power while you pedal. I don't have them on my bike, and it doesn't bother me.

One option you have is to use a Bluetooth adaptor instead of the LCD. You can change power levels with a smartphone. That would work fine if you were happy to go everywhere on the same power level, or you could fix your phone to the bike and use it as the power control device.

 

[Richardab]

Thankyou thats very clear.

Not having ridden an ebike, is changing the power levels something that is done to personal taste, fitness level or specific to the immediate terrain

 

[DynatechFan]

I missed out the brake and throttle bits but used the LCD and PAS - all works fine.

If I understand you correctly you would like to have a visually minimal install - in which case the LCD could go somewhere else on the bike (eg controller bag).

AFAIK you dont need to *see* the screen for it to work with the controller but it has to be connected - once I am riding I rarely look at the screen as I can tell what power setting I have, on my kit the LCD3 is quite gentle in steps from 1-2-3-4 and 5 is much higher

 

[DynatechFan]

to answer your second Q, which appeared as I was typing - I run #3 most of the time and #5 for steep inclines, never use 1 or2 - this is on a nominally legal set up for steady road use

 

[Richardab]

Thankyou, thats useful

 

[anotherkiwi]

You can cut the wire from the LCD to the buttons which control assistance level, on/off and walk assist (handy on steep ramps with panniers full of shopping) and splice in an extension. There are 4 wires in there on the KT-LCD 3 which is very popular and common. Put the LCD in the bag with the controller so you can use it when you need to change settings and whatever. What will be missing is the voltage indicator which shows how much is left in the battery, that is very useful.

 

[Richardab]

Great idea, just the up down buttons on show is much cleaner.

I'd guess with a regular commute (which is where I am coming from) you get to pretty familiar with how much battery is left on your journey.

 

[DynatechFan]

I'd guess with a regular commute (which is where I am coming from) you get to pretty familiar with how much battery is left on your journey.

I certainly did quite quickly, I find myself automatically adjusting the power settings at the same points on my route and can even tell if I have picked a different assist to "normal".

One thing I was a little suprised at was how much battery % I use with a geared hub. Its about 12 miles round trip, some big hills mind. Just under 1 hour all tolled at assist levels 3 to 5 that uses c 60 to 65% of a 10.4Ah 36V battery. That crept up to near 75% in sub zero conditions we had this winter

The centre drive Merida I used had the same battery size and could do 2 trips easily. But then centre drive is inherently more efficient and it didnt assist me above 25kmh, which I guess is what is eating even more battery capacity