Kit that works with display removed or switched off?

[UphillBattle]

It also seems to have a top speed setting in there somewhere: the motor cuts out at a certain speed (I have no speedo but I’d guess it’s 20mph or so) but on a steep hill it pulls hard all the way up so there doesn’t seem to be a power problem.

I’m thinking to buy a Kunteng LCD display in order to access the parameters which would hopefully(?) persist when changing back to the screenless display. That or try soldering in the Bluetooth dongle I have.

EDIT: further riding leads me to believe that the slowdown is happening somewhere above 20mph because I’m pedalling air at that speed so I guess it’s the natural top speed of the low RPM motor. It definitely needs the PAS enabled though because the acceleration on the throttle is a bit mad.

 

[vfr400]

Did the pedal sensor come with your controller or did you buy it separately?

 

[UphillBattle]

Did the pedal sensor come with your controller or did you buy it separately?

Everything was separate but I chose the PAS from the list TopBikeKit provided to go with their controller. The display I found separately since they didn’t have any without a screen. The LED900 is listed as compatible with the torque sensing KT controllers which the TopBikeKit controller is a repackaging of, but it is super basic so if any parameters are wrong between it and the controller I have no way of knowing.

So I expect that either the PAS (they could have made a mistake recommending that one) or the LED could be the problem. I do have another PAS kicking around but I’d have the figure out how to replace its connector with a JULET connector.

 

[vfr400]

The problem is that you have a fancy pedal sensor, and without the LCD, you can't choose the appropriate setting for it.

 

[UphillBattle]

The problem is that you have a fancy pedal sensor, and without the LCD, you can't choose the appropriate setting for it.

Ok that’s good to know, I know what to do now then. The Bluetooth dongle I have is 5 pin - apparently for connecting to the display connector - so I can replace that connector with a julet I have kicking around, plug it in and see if I can get it working and access settings that way.

 

[UphillBattle]

The problem is that you have a fancy pedal sensor, and without the LCD, you can't choose the appropriate setting for it.

Ok so my Bluetooth idea failed (the dongle powers up but can’t speak to the controller), I spliced the wires recreating the pinout that the displays use but the Bluetooth may be intended to work differently or may require a different setup in the controller.

If I get an LCD3 can I use it to change the settings in the controller then take it off, put the screenless LED900 back on and continue with the revised settings?

 

[jarob10]

I too didn’t have any luck with the newly released Bluetooth adapter (plugged into an s09), bit of a shame

I’ve found the controller does indeed remember settings after the display is removed

Just to be sure you order the correct display, model controller do you have?

For minimal hassle, I’d order a spare pas too - I’m assuming this has the correct connector for your controller ?

US $12.26 5％ Off | Waterproof connector BZ-10C PAS System Pedal Assistant Sensor 10 Magnets For Hollowtech Crank Crankset Ebike Conversion Kit Part

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

 

[UphillBattle]

@jarob10

I have the integrated controller from TopBikeKit, based on the KT torque sim controllers. They recommend the KT-LCD8S, KT-LCD8H and the “T-LCD3” which must be a typo because it looks like a KT-LCD3.

I favour the LCD3 as it’s cheaper as less computery which means I might be able to use it without triggering my computer-hating nervous system. Unlikely though, hence wanting to ditch it once it has changed the settings.

KT- 36V/48V 9Mosfets Sine Wave Controller for 10S/13S/14S Big Hailong 1-2 Case 65pcs cells [Hailong 1-2 22A Controller] - $45.60 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

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Re: that PAS I’ve been trying to avoid having to remove the crankset as I don’t have any special tools for it, though I am coming round to the idea of fitting a larger chainring as the bike is too fast for the existing gears.

 

[jarob10]

Same controller as mine - an lcd3 will do the trick

If your pas light is flashing with spinning cranks, that’s a good sign. All should be well once you’ve reprogrammed c1 (I’ve had most luck with setting to 3)

All my bikes have 52t chainrings- only occasionally do I spin out, at about 31mph

You can get pretty cheap narrow-wide chain rings from aliexpress and they seem to be decent quality. You may need a longer chain though

Ref crank removal - I’d personally recommend high quality (park tools) for the crank extractor & chain whip. Massive false economy otherwise. You can safely cheap-out on all other tools

 

[UphillBattle]

Ok so I got the LCD3 and fixed the PAS and top speed issues. It turns out both were down to the P1 parameter being way, way off resulting in the controller thinking the bike was going much faster than it was. No need to change any PAS settings.

The downside is that removing the LCD3 and restoring the LED900 results in the problem returning - parameters are not being saved to the controller.

Unless there is some other step, I guess the solution is to make a parameter copy cable and use it to copy the parameters from the LCD to the LED as laid out here:

KT-LED display meter parameters copy methods and procedures Parameter Copy project

KT-LED display meter parameters copy methods and procedures Parameter Copy project

www.academia.edu

This would be further complicated by the JULET connectors.