How many watts show on the LCD when the motor goes with the throttle? Which level of assistance are you using? Please give clear and concise answers to questions because it's very difficult to understand what's going on. We don't know what you've done nor what you're seeing. These things really are very simple. I can guarantee that I'd have it sorted in 2 minutes if you brought it to my house.
KT controller, KT LCD3 and pass - guide on working modes
- Thread starter sapphire_ad
- Start date
Is that with the wheel in the air? How long does it hold that power? What happens when you ride the bike?
Yes, the motor runs with the wheel in the air (the bike is currently upside down), but it only lasts for 3–4 seconds, the motor is very loud when using the throttle. When riding, the throttle isn't responsive (unless I switch off and on display again and pedal first than press the throttle).
It sounds like you have a false connection sequence for the motor. If you have the block connectors, like I always recommend, it's easy to fix, but if you have the waterproof sealed connectors, you'll have to hack into a motor cable.
Before you do that, what happens if you just use a small amount of throttle with the wheel in the air. Can you maintain an indicated speed of 5 mph? Also, what happens when you use the walk assist (down button)?
It still only runs for a few seconds at a time. Each time I press the throttle, the battery LEDs light up green. After switching the display off and on, I can press the throttle two or three times, and the motor runs briefly (still very loud), showing an increase in wattage on display. The number in the bottom-right corner (20) starts enters a "thinking" mode at the same time
Changing the walk assist level doesn’t affect this behavior, except that the number on the display decreases from 5 to 1 as expected.
I have access to controller pcb if need testing (I plan to use existing housing for it as easier to connect to battery)
Changing the walk assist level doesn’t affect this behavior, except that the number on the display decreases from 5 to 1 as expected.
I have access to controller pcb if need testing (I plan to use existing housing for it as easier to connect to battery)
The walk assist button is the down button. press and hold it for 5 seconds. You didn't answer the question about the throttle.
few answers above:
'It still only runs for a few seconds at a time unable to maintain the speed for longer than that. Each time I press the throttle, the battery LEDs light up green.'
'It still only runs for a few seconds at a time unable to maintain the speed for longer than that. Each time I press the throttle, the battery LEDs light up green.'
That's almost certainly a false connection sequence. It could be a battery problem if the LCD shuts down, but the lack of walk assist points to the former.
You can get a motor cable from ebay with male and female connectors. Cut it open half way along, pull out the hall wires - blue green and yellow. Cut them and swap them round to see if a sequence makes the motor run properly either backwards or forwards.
ok, had a spare cable, 3 thick wires green, blue and yellow, 6 thin cables: white, green, red, black yellow, blue.
Are you refering to thick or thin wires here?
ok hall sensor would be thin. answered my own question
Are you refering to thick or thin wires here?
ok hall sensor would be thin. answered my own question
Attachments
Last edited:
I started to swap hall cables initially but no results so started to swap phase cables with no results too, so I used a combinations of both and got the results I wanted i.e. throttle works smoothly and delivers every time when pressed, walk assistance works too with various levels.
just wondering now how to connect it all to ensure it is right as need to swap phase connections as well as hall connections. For the last I have plug so can swap around but for phase connectors I would need to solder it again correctly to pcb. Weekend work.
Unless anybody has better idea to make it easier (I do not want to leave extra cable that has wago connections all over the place or solder it as risking water leak in a long run.
Saneagle, thank you for patience with me, as well as going through the hoops and giving right direction!
Last edited:
Swap a pair of the phase wires and try all three hall combinations. make a note of the combinations you tried. There are three of 36 combinations that give correct forward motion and three will spin the motor backwards. Keep going until you find a combination that works. Sometimes, there's asymmetry in the motor, so one of the three correct combinations works better than the other two.
Related Articles
-
MTF Enterprises announces acquisition of EMU Electric Bikes- Started by: Pedelecs
-
Wisper 806T folding bike wins Which? ‘Best Buy’- Started by: Pedelecs
-
Sustrans calls for protected cycle lanes- Started by: Pedelecs
-
Amazon launch their first UK e-cargo micromobility hub- Started by: Pedelecs
