How many watts show on the LCD when the motor goes with the throttle? Which level of assistance are you using? Please give clear and concise answers to questions because it's very difficult to understand what's going on. We don't know what you've done nor what you're seeing. These things really are very simple. I can guarantee that I'd have it sorted in 2 minutes if you brought it to my house.
KT controller, KT LCD3 and pass - guide on working modes
- Thread starter sapphire_ad
- Start date
Is that with the wheel in the air? How long does it hold that power? What happens when you ride the bike?
Yes, the motor runs with the wheel in the air (the bike is currently upside down), but it only lasts for 3–4 seconds, the motor is very loud when using the throttle. When riding, the throttle isn't responsive (unless I switch off and on display again and pedal first than press the throttle).
It sounds like you have a false connection sequence for the motor. If you have the block connectors, like I always recommend, it's easy to fix, but if you have the waterproof sealed connectors, you'll have to hack into a motor cable.
Before you do that, what happens if you just use a small amount of throttle with the wheel in the air. Can you maintain an indicated speed of 5 mph? Also, what happens when you use the walk assist (down button)?
It still only runs for a few seconds at a time. Each time I press the throttle, the battery LEDs light up green. After switching the display off and on, I can press the throttle two or three times, and the motor runs briefly (still very loud), showing an increase in wattage on display. The number in the bottom-right corner (20) starts enters a "thinking" mode at the same time
Changing the walk assist level doesn’t affect this behavior, except that the number on the display decreases from 5 to 1 as expected.
I have access to controller pcb if need testing (I plan to use existing housing for it as easier to connect to battery)
Changing the walk assist level doesn’t affect this behavior, except that the number on the display decreases from 5 to 1 as expected.
I have access to controller pcb if need testing (I plan to use existing housing for it as easier to connect to battery)
The walk assist button is the down button. press and hold it for 5 seconds. You didn't answer the question about the throttle.
few answers above:
'It still only runs for a few seconds at a time unable to maintain the speed for longer than that. Each time I press the throttle, the battery LEDs light up green.'
'It still only runs for a few seconds at a time unable to maintain the speed for longer than that. Each time I press the throttle, the battery LEDs light up green.'
That's almost certainly a false connection sequence. It could be a battery problem if the LCD shuts down, but the lack of walk assist points to the former.
You can get a motor cable from ebay with male and female connectors. Cut it open half way along, pull out the hall wires - blue green and yellow. Cut them and swap them round to see if a sequence makes the motor run properly either backwards or forwards.
ok, had a spare cable, 3 thick wires green, blue and yellow, 6 thin cables: white, green, red, black yellow, blue.
Are you refering to thick or thin wires here?
ok hall sensor would be thin. answered my own question
Are you refering to thick or thin wires here?
ok hall sensor would be thin. answered my own question
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I started to swap hall cables initially but no results so started to swap phase cables with no results too, so I used a combinations of both and got the results I wanted i.e. throttle works smoothly and delivers every time when pressed, walk assistance works too with various levels.
just wondering now how to connect it all to ensure it is right as need to swap phase connections as well as hall connections. For the last I have plug so can swap around but for phase connectors I would need to solder it again correctly to pcb. Weekend work.
Unless anybody has better idea to make it easier (I do not want to leave extra cable that has wago connections all over the place or solder it as risking water leak in a long run.
Saneagle, thank you for patience with me, as well as going through the hoops and giving right direction!
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Swap a pair of the phase wires and try all three hall combinations. make a note of the combinations you tried. There are three of 36 combinations that give correct forward motion and three will spin the motor backwards. Keep going until you find a combination that works. Sometimes, there's asymmetry in the motor, so one of the three correct combinations works better than the other two.
Hi sapphire_ad, have you got the Evo all soldered and working now? Does it work on the original peddle sensor or did you need to fit a new one?
My sister has a non working Raleigh Stoweway which is the same as the Evo except name and paint colour. I have been watching your progress with a view to trying the same on her bike. So I was wondering how well does the Evo work now?
Thanks Stanebike
My sister has a non working Raleigh Stoweway which is the same as the Evo except name and paint colour. I have been watching your progress with a view to trying the same on her bike. So I was wondering how well does the Evo work now?
Thanks Stanebike
Hi Stanebike,
All soldering is done now! The hall and phase wires gave me a bit of trouble, but thanks to Saneeagle’s advice I found the right combination. I’m reusing the original controller housing, so I had to make a few adjustments to fit the KT controller due to space constraints, but it’s all working fine.
I went with a KT controller that includes light control, but honestly, it’s not worth it without a relay—it just doesn’t function properly. In the end, I decided to remove the integrated headlight and taillight and switch to standalone lights instead.
I also swapped in a different pedal sensor (bought it along with the KT controller). It works perfectly, though the initial setup was a bit fiddly. Total cost came to about £85 for the kit plus my time—still much cheaper than buying a new display (which is nearly impossible to find anyway, as the German manufacturer confirmed they’ve discontinued it).
I’m happy to share the steps I took—just need to document everything properly for the forum before posting it.
We need to know how much better it is than the original system, plus, we need to know what was the final sequence of phase and hall wires. I'm really pleased that you persevered. Many people, who try things like that, give up at the first problem.
For anybody else, always go for the KT controllers with block connectors unless you're sure that your motor will work with the KT controller using the default sequence, or unless you don't mind hacking the wires and soldering them. With the block connector version, you can unclip the pins from the connector blocks, try all the combinations until you get the right one, then put the pins back in the blocks in the working sequence, which only takes a few minutes.
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