Lights again

[EddiePJ]

Thanks James, I was actually referring to a reaction between the silicon and the battery cells themselves. It is only adhering to the card at the top and bottom of the battery, as the sides are shrink wrapped, so does it really matter? I can't say that I'm going to let it overly bother me, as the freezer bag, and ensuring that the connecting wire faces downwards idea is simpler, so I'll just go with that idea.

 

[pdarnett]

I'm running straight off the main 36v battery, 3 lots of 12v led wired in series (not parallel) runs off 36v fine.

 

[pdarnett]

So I've been doing my experiments with the rear lighting system I'm designing, and would like some feed back.

The rear light will detect distance to the vehicle behind you, and as it decreases the flashing speed and intensity will increase. Also the unit will beep with its tone and speed increasing to warn the rider.

So I've a few designs, one uses an led matrix display to show an animated bike symbol (like brainy bike lights) that then changes to a warning triangle when driver is close.

One with just plain red leds like a normal light.

Either will have the option to have a bike "paddle" that can be added, it will also have some red led's as well.

Possibly could be rechargeable, if that's important to people.

Or am I over complicating things?
Do we need a new type of rear light?

 

[JamesW]

What are you making Paul???

perhaps you want an option to auto sound a 12V/air horn that the car behind can hear if it gets too close behind/alongside when overtaking - with the ability to switch on/off this function (for passing traffic) and calibrate the distance at which it sounds?

I'd love to make this more complicated for you!!!

What are you using to detect the distance? Are you detecting speed of approach as well as distance (slow creaping is less dangerous than rushing up fast when the system would need to switch/sound faster and further away to give the same driver reaction time.)

James

P.S. There is no such thing as over complicated, just very well designed for purpose and highly specialised!

Yes we need a new rear light - one that incorporates both a flashing LED and solid LED at the same time. Judging distance to a flashing LED is impossible, but it does tell you that there is a cyclist ahead, a solid LED allows you to determine how far ahead so that you don't end up on top of the cyclist by accident!

 

[pdarnett]

I'm using ultrasonic detection for the time being as it's not affected by the light like laser detection can be. Plus it can have a wide pick up zone.

LED wise, depending on whether I use an LED matrix (so messages could scroll across) or just bright leds I was thinking static (solid) LED at about 80% brightness then ramping up to 100% and flashing (and some beeping) when a driver enters the danger zone! Daytime mode would leave all lights off until detection happens then flash/beep.

Speed detection is tricky but tone and speed of flashing would increase as drivers get closer. I'm thinking changing the tone(from the buzzer) in steps such as:-

at 3m mid tones slow beeping 75% volume
at 2.5m slightly higher pitched and 80% volume
2m higher pitch and full volume
1m very loud rapid high pitched

0m sound of falling off bike.

 

[EddiePJ]

The length of cable as fitted to both the light and battery pack on my lights is ridiculously long and I'm fed up looking at the ugly mess of wrapped cable and want to shorten them. Can anyone please advise about which type of plugs to buy and where from? Male and female.

I still think that for £17.00 a go with six 18650 batteries per light, and four hours run time per light, you can't go wrong. The yellowish glow of a light on the L/H side is the Fenix BT20. This is normally just left abandoned at home.

Edit.. In relation to rear lights, I have recently bought a few of these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121508317138?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=420444679613&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT They seem very good considering the price, and are putting with the mud, crud and water that my rides are covering them in. The only thing that I could criticise, but I can't at this price, is the rubber attachment band. It could be slightly thicker and possibly less stretchy.
I did spot that there is a UK listed seller, now offering them a £1.00 a go delivered. Crazy cheap, and worth buying just to keep a spare.



.

 

[Nealh]

Eddie why not just cut , solder and heat shrink the wiring, also the joints will be water proofed doing it that way.

 

[mfj197]

I just butcher standard extension leads to get the plugs and sockets. They are sealed but I use the wire they are attached to and either feed it directly into my lights (I make my own) or join the cable to something else. But yes, for shortening the cables I'd do just as Nealh says!

Michael

 

[Deleted member 4366]

No need to make a join. Unscrew the front of the light and pull out the guts. The wire is soldered to two pads on the pcb. Unsolder it, cut it to the correct length and resolder it. You have no join then. You can do the same with the battery, but you have to peel off the shrink-wrap to get to the pcb. Wrap it in gaffa tape afterwards.

 

[JamesW]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151460428290

I purchased these as it allows me to make up my own cables and connect them to a DC-DC converter and run all my lights off the E-bike battery.

All the Chinese lights (and my Moon XP1500) seem to use the same connector - a 2.5mm jack with centre pin positive.

The only thing that seems to vary is that some light sets run from 7V (2S) and some run from 12V (4S) - voltages given are approx. - My Moon has a 2S2P battery pack, as does my light with 5 cree LEDs, my light like yours ones cuts
out when supplied with less than 10V due to the battery pack being 4S.

Hope this helps you Eddie.

James