Looking to convert to electric but need some help please

ldc

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Jun 2, 2020
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The hub motor can be bought from BMSBattery.com or Topbikekit.com you then add a controller and peripherals to customise the build to make up a kit.
If unsure of components show us what you have selected before buying.
so I have provisionally chosen the following

  • bafang bpm 2 48v 500w rear driving e-bike kit 201rpm
  • s12s lcd meter or s-lcdu3 meter
  • thumb throttle
  • 48v 17.5 AH ebike battery pack
  • dual hall sensor d12
  • charger not sure which i need ?
  • anything else i need
 

Nealh

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Supply a link to the items you have looked at.
 

Nealh

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Nealh

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You don't need the waterproof 1T4 cable set as it is not compatible with nay of the others.
The PAS sensor is imho a crappy type to fit, a neater one suing the ring retainer that sits between the chain ring and BB are neater and less likely to get damaged.

Buying the battery from China will add more expense to the overall freight and duty costs as will the built wheel.
The battery you may be better souring in the UK/EU, also imho you will want better cells then the Sam 35E.
 
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Nealh

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I prefer the layout and products of Topbikekit site to BMSB, there is a bit more choice and information on the products.
 
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ldc

Pedelecer
Jun 2, 2020
58
4
You don't need the waterproof 1T4 cable set as it is not compatible with nay of the others.
The PAS sensor is imho a crappy type to fit, a neater one suing the ring retainer that sits between the chain ring and BB are neater and less likely to get damaged.

Buying the battery from China will add more expense to the overall freight and duty costs as will the built wheel.
The battery you may be better souring in the UK/EU, also imho you will want better cells then the Sam 35E.
OK thanks for your input do you have links to recommended sensors and battery cells ? I've actually seen the same wheel on amazon. So am I just better off getting brake sensor & controller from bms. I chose that sensor so as not having to faff with the crank. Any recommendations for sourcing battery in UK, as that would be ideal, all though stock levels appear to be really poor. Is that 201rpm wheel one worth getting? I really appreciate your feedback
 

Nealh

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201rpm is good for about 22/23 mph at 48v and for torque, so ideal for hills.
Seeing the same wheel you need to be sure the motor rpm is stated other wise they don't climb as well on hills, the wrong rpm winding can lead to heat build up in the motor and wasted battery energy due to inefficacy this turns the wasted energy to heat.

EU/UK bateries.
Ebikebatteries.co.uk.
Enerprof.de
Also there is a guy on ebay who makes up/sells batteries, I'm not recommending him as never used him but it is another option.
 
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Nealh

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A part from the battery as a first time buy it will be simpler and easier to buy all from the same buyer.
 
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Nealh

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ldc

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Jun 2, 2020
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ok getting closer to making a decision last few questions I have
a) will the batteries fit my frame
top tube = 18.5"
seat tube = 12"
down tube = 22"

35966

b) do I have enough clearance for the PAS sensor , I have a 5mm gap

35967

c) which torque arm do i need to get ?

35968
 

Nealh

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Your ' T ' is small make up a card battery mock up using the battery dimensions given to see what fits & allowing 22/22mm to lift the battery up and out of the receiver, barring that look for the Hailong 2 case that is side off design though
the dimensions/fitting still needs trying to see it fits.

5mm is just enough for the magnet disc, some will grind a bit off the crank inner side if tight or buy the next size BB length to accommodate one.

Show us a pic of the D/O (both sides) without the rear wheel in place, for the hub axle to sit in properly they often need 2 - 3mm deepening other wise they don't sit in fully and can cause issues even with a T/A.

Mostly available is this type, I make my own one piece T/A's up.
A one piece guarantees no movement unlike two piece affairs which can fail if the bolt loosens.
In your pic the axle C shape piece (as in the link below) is ideal with a new fixing hole lined up/drilled to use the existing tapped M5 hole you can see on your D/O.
 
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ldc

Pedelecer
Jun 2, 2020
58
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Your ' T ' is small make up a card battery mock up using the battery dimensions given to see what fits & allowing 22/22mm to lift the battery up and out of the receiver, barring that look for the Hailong 2 case that is side off design though
the dimensions/fitting still needs trying to see it fits.

5mm is just enough for the magnet disc, some will grind a bit off the crank inner side if tight or buy the next size BB length to accommodate one.

Show us a pic of the D/O's without the rear wheel in place, for the hub axle to sit in properly they often need 2 - 3mm deepening other wise they don't sit in fully and can cause issues even with a T/A.
ok thanks, Ill get that picture taken shortly
 

Nealh

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Fitting a T/A may be easier on the opposite side to the hub cable entry if you really want to go OTT fit one each side then you could dispense with the A/R washers.
Don't use the Jubilee clip type arrangement a direct fixing via a tapped hole and Allen bolt is much more secure.

T/A's come either 12 x 10 or 14 x 10 so buy the correct one for the axle of the hub, a lot of geared hubs use 12 x 10 axle but you will need to wait until the hub arrives.
 

ldc

Pedelecer
Jun 2, 2020
58
4
Fitting a T/A may be easier on the opposite side to the hub cable entry if you really want to go OTT fit one each side then you could dispense with the A/R washers.
Don't use the Jubilee clip type arrangement a direct fixing via a tapped hole and Allen bolt is much more secure.

T/A's come either 12 x 10 or 14 x 10 so buy the correct one for the axle of the hub, a lot of geared hubs use 12 x 10 axle but you will need to wait until the hub arrives.
What's the A/R?
 

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Nealh

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[/QUO


The hub axle has two flat sides that slide in the D/O for a snug fit, you may have to file the D/O flats 0.5 - 1mm if they aren't 10mm. The hub axle flats need to sit fully in the D/O ideally for max resistance to counter act the torque rotation even with T/A's and ARW's fitted, unless a bike has unusually deep D/O's they will need filing a bit deeper carefully as you don't want to D/O strength integrity. Not all bikes are suitable for rear hub conversions.
 
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