Magura Brakes
- Thread starter tillson
- Start date
For a start the pads last a lot longer, they have better (more solid) 'feel'. Whether they are more powerful is debatable but they are very low maintenance. I have just had to replace a wheel rim after just under 1300 miles (using normal brakes and nearly three sets of pads). I did over 3000 miles and two sets of pads when I was using the maguras on my torq (a lot heavier than my Cytronex as well). Well worth the upgrade for £70 a set in my view.
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Do they come ready assembled with fixed length hoses? I am just thinking about possible routes for installing the rear brake which may involve a longer than standard hose run, particularly if I route it through the frame.
It would be ideal if they came with plenty of hose and the facility to cut it to length and make off the end.
Are they easy to adjust and change the pads once installed and set up properly?
Do you know what differences exist between the HS11 and HS33? They seem to be about the same price and I notice that Kalkhoff tend to use the HS11s. Some reviews that I have read, mainly on mountain bike sites, seem to suggest that the HS11s are better, but the authors don't explain why. Too much Yo-ing, too many dudes and awsomes to make any sense to me!
Thanks
Tom
Tom
I have no direct experience of the HS33.
I fitted the Magura HS11 to the front of the Torq and the performance has always been excellent.
More recently, I have done about 60 miles on a Kalkhoff Tasman that has HS11 brakes on front and back. Again the braking was excellent, and I would say that it was silkier than the ProConnect which feels as though it uses fairly hard brake pads.
Comparing the HS11 and HS33, I believe that the HS33 has shorter brake levers with a different ratio of leverage. Would be worth checking whether the brake lever needs to reach past other bits such as the gear shifter. If so, go for the regular HS11's (which I think are still cheaper than HS33 at ChainReactionCycles. Page down for Rim Brakes).
At the wheel end, the HS11's are exactly the same for front and rear wheels. At the handlebar end, the levers are handed for LH or RH side of the handlebars.
If you buy a pair of HS11, both sides come ready made up with the same length of hose (approx 130 cm). The hose needs slightly longer radii than cable operated brakes.
At the fitting stage, the assumption is that the hose will need shortening back for the front brake.
The brakes are prefilled and the hose can be shortened successfully without bleeding when fitting to the outside of the frame.
For threading through the inside of the frame, you would be better working with empty pipe, and filling/bleeding afterwards.
I think that the 130cm might be too short to reach the back brakes through the frame. If so, the Service Kit contains a roll of hose 230cm long, together with spare olives etc, and oil.
On the Torq, I use the Black brake blocks supplied as standard when you purchase HS11 brakes - regular use on alloy rims.
The Tasman is supplied with the Red brake blocks, described as being for competition use on alloy rims. Various forums rate the Red blocks highly for extended life.
As Magura are a German firm, I would imagine a successful relationship exists between them and Kalkhoff. Spares can sometimes be found more commonly from German suppliers such as RoseVersand. Brake blocks seem to be sold as 2 pairs.
James
When I fitted HS11s to an Agattu I used magura hose fitting guides that attach to the original brake stops. You just screw them on and then clip the hydraulic pipe in. Looked very neat.
One of the difference between the HS33 and the HS11 - they have different adjusters -while the HS11 you have to use an allen key, the HS33 has a knob. Once you set up the brakes they will only need to be adjusted perhaps once before you replace the pads. Personally I don't think it is worth the extra for the HS33 for an electric bike.
One of the difference between the HS33 and the HS11 - they have different adjusters -while the HS11 you have to use an allen key, the HS33 has a knob. Once you set up the brakes they will only need to be adjusted perhaps once before you replace the pads. Personally I don't think it is worth the extra for the HS33 for an electric bike.
Harry
Thanks for that advice - I have just looked at those guides on the Magura Accesories Page.
I can see how neatly they would work on the standard crossbar cable guides on the ProConnect, and would mean that the standard HS11 pipe length is sufficient.
James
I have HS66's (old drop handlebar version, no longer made) on a non-electric, which I have never regretted fitting. In ~10years use I've never done any maintenance except changing the blocks. A nice feature is that the blocks always hit the rims square on unlike most cable brakes where they move in an arc.
I think top quality modern V-brakes or dual-pivot brakes with good clean cables approach the power of Maguras, although the control of brake pressure ('modulation') is still probably better with hydraulics.
Do fit brake boosters if not supplied with the brakes to get maximum benefit from these brakes.
Robin
I think top quality modern V-brakes or dual-pivot brakes with good clean cables approach the power of Maguras, although the control of brake pressure ('modulation') is still probably better with hydraulics.
Do fit brake boosters if not supplied with the brakes to get maximum benefit from these brakes.
Robin
Thanks for the replies. Those clips would certainly make the installation much neater and do away with the need to route the pipe through the frame.
I'll have to check on the lever lengths as that is a good point regarding reaching past the gear shifter.
I'm quite tempted by this upgrade, and from what has been posted, there seems to be a few worthwhile benefits. I'll let you know how I get on and what I think of the end result.
Thanks
Tom
... you have to add the microswitch yourself to the outside of the lever I'm afraid.
Although lots of people on this site reckon the motor cut offs are actually uneccessary. (I don't agree myself).
Just for information: I have sent an email to Chain Reaction Cycles regarding the length of the lever on the HS33 brakes and they have opened a box and measured them for me. The lever length is 85mm from the red adjuster to the tip (here). The Shimano levers fitted to my Pro Connect are 105mm from pivot to tip.
I can’t see the 20 mm shorter lever on the Magura presenting a problem as the brake lever fits furthest outboard closest to the grip with the gear shifter sitting inboard nearest to the stem. Unless of course, I am missing something obvious.
They come with brake boosters included in the set, but no hose clips for the crossbar. They don’t stock those either, so will need sourcing from elsewhere.
I can’t see the 20 mm shorter lever on the Magura presenting a problem as the brake lever fits furthest outboard closest to the grip with the gear shifter sitting inboard nearest to the stem. Unless of course, I am missing something obvious.
They come with brake boosters included in the set, but no hose clips for the crossbar. They don’t stock those either, so will need sourcing from elsewhere.
I don't think them necessary, rolling off the throttle when braking is done by all motorcyclists routinely every time they front brake, so why is that beyond a cyclist's ability? Even if the motor stuck on due to a fault, bike brakes will easily overcome it, especially Maguras.
.
Rolling off the throttle doesn't make the motor stop as the pedals motion keeps it going, I left my Wisper brakes disconnected for a while and didn't like it.
If I was only changing the front brake it wouldn't be much of a problem as when stopping in a hurry I use both brakes and the original rear switch would cut the motor.
Oh come on! Are you saying a cyclist doesn't have the gumption to stop pedalling when they brake?
Really!
I think any cyclist will stop pedalling when braking and is just as capable of rolling off the throttle as our 2 million motorcyclists routinely do.
.
I could stop pedalling but I don't want to, I like to change down gears as I brake so when I release I'm in the right gear. We don't all have novice style hub gears you know.Oh come on! Are you saying a cyclist doesn't have the gumption to stop pedalling when they brake?
Really!
I think any cyclist will stop pedalling when braking and is just as capable of rolling off the throttle as our 2 million motorcyclists routinely do.
.
Even if the motor is stuck on due to a fault, the brake switches might not necessarily save you - they don't cut the power, they only tell the controller to cut the power. For that matter, the same applies to the handlebar power-off switch. They're better than nothing - perhaps MUCH better than nothing - but not guaranteed to work in every situation.
Rog.
I could stop pedalling but I don't want to, I like to change down gears as I brake so when I release I'm in the right gear. We don't all have novice style hub gears you know.
Valid point - I have to admit I was with Flecc until you explained. For gradual deceleration on a pedelec bike such as the Wisper, you do need brake cut-outs to kill the motor. Doesn't apply of course to non-pedelecs such as Ezee.
My set-up is non-pedelec, but I prefer to have brake cut-outs and do without a spring in the throttle!
Both my bikes have deraileurs and three of the four brake cutouts failed, but I don't find any difficulty. Each to his own preferences of course.I could stop pedalling but I don't want to, I like to change down gears as I brake so when I release I'm in the right gear. We don't all have novice style hub gears you know.
Of course we are heading towards a future of few or no throttles once EU law is fully enforced, so there'll be less emphasis on cutouts then.
.
I've got a late 2008 Wisper with the high/low box. I can certainly see that without that and without brake cutouts the Wisper would be quite a handful, especially as when you do stop pedalling there is the best part of a second of delay before the power goes off.
If I didn't have the 20% (low) setting I think pedelec mode would have had to go fairly early on - the 'high' setting is just too much for many situations, and if (I'm told) that's the default without the box I would have found it to be problematic.
Rog.
The even more powerful eZee top end models have full power only in pedelec mode. I don't usually use pedelec but don't find the instant full power a problem when I've tried it from time to time.
Once we have pedelec only I think we'll see more torque sensors on bikes in future, and better operating ones at that.
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