marathon plus tyres

[eddieo]

The Marathon Plus Tour are also dual purpose for rough stuff as well.

All the Plus ones are heavy due to that thick puncture prevention inner layer, the cost of high protection.

maybe i will get them for wisper and see how I get on with KTM marathon cross.....Thanks Tony!

 

[Mussels]

The daahub wheel comes with a "Kenda K1088 700C x 35C puncture resistant e-bike tyre"

How do you think this will compare for resistance against the M+

should I buy one Kenda for rear wheel, or a pair of M+

The KTM bike (on its way) has "Schwalbe Marathon Cross" are these any good?

I've had the Kendas and the M+ on the same bike and ride wise there's little between them, the choice will be between unlikely to puncture or easier to remove.

 

[AndyOfTheSouth]

The Marathon Extreme/Dureme/Supreme tyres are worth considering.

They are lighter than other Marathons, particularly the Supreme. I have a 26*2.00 on the front wheel (rigid steel fork) and 26*1.60 Supreme on the rear wheel of a Dahon Espresso. Works pretty well on and off road. I think the Supreme would be just right for Eddie's Daahub conversion.

 

[alban]

The M+ semi-slicks fitted easily onto my Cyclamatic's (Champion?) wheels just by using fingers. Made me wonder if I'd got the genuine article with wire band it was so easy?
Followed advice given elsewhere in only partially removing back wheel and going in from brake servo side. Difficult bit was realigning the wheel into the grooves again! Seemed to need 4 hands to prise frame apart and simultaneously orientate the axle to fit. There's obviously a knack I aint got.
Put slime into the tubes as 'belt and braces' but now concerned that if I do get a pun*ture a patch won't stick! Nothing's failsafe I suppose.
Bike seems to roll better than on the original tyres.

 

[Scimitar]

Pinching isn't the issue in my advice Dave, it's the width of the valve preventing the tyre being fully squeezed into the rim centre well at the valve point, making less slack for the tyre to go complete going on. Leaving the valve until last gives a little more slack.

Like so many trade and ex trade people, doing it that way I only occasionally need tyre levers to get tyres off or on.

That's exactly why I do it first - the valve base gets pushed into the carcase of the tyre and clears the rim and bead, leaving the well open for the bead to sit down into. I developed this technique when I noticed that pinching occurred on the valve base if it was left until last.

 

[flecc]

The valve is pushed inwards last Dave, as in the video, and the tyre is centralised on the rim at that stage before pumping, these ensuring no pinching can occur. Never pinched one in years of doing it in the trade.

 

[Scimitar]

We shall differ on this, then.

 

[flecc]

Of course Dave, I wouldn't expect you to change what suits you. My postings were as much for others to see that a further small advantage was possible to ease getting difficult tyres on or off.