Mini electrical connectors?

[T i m]

If you want some neat in line 3 pin plugs try mini head phone plugs. I've used these a lot. They are ideal for throttles, brakes and are dead easy to waterproof with silicon and heatshrink, they are also very neat. . Fitted at the handlebar end means you only have to run one multicore to the controller and if anything needs changing peel of the heat shrink and unplug.

Another soloution, thanks. ;-)

I especially like the idea of a 'flexibility point' (as it used to be called when I worked somewhere), a handy place to disconnect / by-pass / measure / faultfind etc.

I believe some of the PowaCycles had a small plastic box at the handlebar end into which the various cable were run and interconnected. When we got ours, everything was soldered and heat-shrinked, ok when it's all working but a pain when you want to replace / test / by-pass something.

Cheers, T i m

 

[Northern Irelander]

Just a query, re the 5 wires from the motor

Will these 5 pin connectors fit through the centre of a cassette locking tool.

I was faced with this problem when the OE factory wires were glued/soldered into a ISO type mutipin connector at the controller.

Of course trying to be smart, I cut a 10mm slot through the locking tool. Slipped it over the cable and back axle, great works a treat I thought. Except the cassette had been over torqued at the factory and the tool just flexed enough causing it to slip inside the splines

Back to square one, so I placed small bullet connectors, all at staggered distance so they aren't all slding through a narrow aperture at the same time

 

[T i m]

Just a query, re the 5 wires from the motor

Will these 5 pin connectors fit through the centre of a cassette locking tool.

Good question and I think the answer is probably yes (as I believe they can come like that from the factory). However I'll probably get the chance to find out when I replace the tyres at some point (going for Schwalbe Marathon Pluses 'less someone tell me otherwise?).

I was faced with this problem when the OE factory wires were glued/soldered into a ISO type mutipin connector at the controller.

Of course trying to be smart, I cut a 10mm slot through the locking tool. Slipped it over the cable and back axle, great works a treat I thought. Except the cassette had been over torqued at the factory and the tool just flexed enough causing it to slip inside the splines

One of those 'seems like a good idea at the time' ideas? ;-(

Back to square one, so I placed small bullet connectors, all at staggered distance so they aren't all slding through a narrow aperture at the same time

I thought that might be why there were still individual bullet connectors on mine, you can pull each connector through on it's own like you said. That will also be something I will check re 'upgrading' the bullets to Powerpoles, at least the PowerPoles can be separated again and may still pull though individually etc.

Cheers, T i m

 

[Alex728]

Another soloution, thanks. ;-)

I especially like the idea of a 'flexibility point' (as it used to be called when I worked somewhere), a handy place to disconnect / by-pass / measure / faultfind etc.

I believe some of the PowaCycles had a small plastic box at the handlebar end into which the various cable were run and interconnected. When we got ours, everything was soldered and heat-shrinked, ok when it's all working but a pain when you want to replace / test / by-pass something.

Cheers, T i m

not seen this on a Powacycle but a (custom moulded and patented) box of this nature is used as a selling point on a Wisper. A very good idea it is too..

 

[Northern Irelander]

I thought that might be why there were still individual bullet connectors on mine, you can pull each connector through on it's own like you said. That will also be something I will check re 'upgrading' the bullets to Powerpoles, at least the PowerPoles can be separated again and may still pull though individually etc.

Cheers, T i m

No such bullet connectors on my machines, both retro fitted to the motor wires.

Plus the original bullet connectors that are on the rest of the wiring on the Powacycle are pretty shoddy, I have replaced these for larger bullet connectors or spade connectors.

The negative connector from the battery had actually disconnected itself within the clear sheath and the current was jumping across a 2mm gap
Black spark marks to go with it.

the rubber flex on the wires is prone to splitting and cracking (non B.S.) just something to consider when manipulating any wires.

 

[Tiberius]

Ah, Gn/Y/Bl match the phase feed wires, Rd/Bk std power colours <slaps head> thanks. ;-)

I asked in case knowing might help me fault find in the future.

Cheers, T i m

The colours match, but don't expect them to be connected G-G, Y-Y and B-B on both Hall and phase wires. It isn't always the case, so make a note of how they were before you change connectors.

Nick

 

[Tiberius]

Just a query, re the 5 wires from the motor

Will these 5 pin connectors fit through the centre of a cassette locking tool.

I don't know. Is it a cassette or a freewheel? Is the tool driven by a spanner, or a square drive? I think there's a thread somewhere on here where we discuss boring out the inner of removal tools - I had to un-harden one first.

A worse problem is trying to get the connectors through a 12 mm axle nut on some bikes.

The trick with bullets you describe is the solution for them. Similarly with Anderson Powerpoles - put them through one at a time. With the Hall wires you may have to take the terminals out of the housing.

Nick

 

[Tiberius]

Good question and I think the answer is probably yes (as I believe they can come like that from the factory). However I'll probably get the chance to find out when I replace the tyres at some point (going for Schwalbe Marathon Pluses 'less someone tell me otherwise?).

Consider the Schwalbe Marathon Supremes or the Big Apples instead, you can run fatter tyres at lower pressure. They then do all that the Marathon Pluses do but also give extra suspension, which is very useful with a hub motor.

Nick

 

[Northern Irelander]

I don't know. Is it a cassette or a freewheel? Is the tool driven by a spanner, or a square drive? I think there's a thread somewhere on here where we discuss boring out the inner of removal tools - I had to un-harden one first.

A worse problem is trying to get the connectors through a 12 mm axle nut on some bikes.

The trick with bullets you describe is the solution for them. Similarly with Anderson Powerpoles - put them through one at a time. With the Hall wires you may have to take the terminals out of the housing.

Nick

I have freewheel and cassette tools for various bikes, even the spanner type were fairly wide bore, but not wide enough

Ah yes the axle nut, forgot to mention that one.

 

[T i m]

not seen this on a Powacycle but a (custom moulded and patented) box of this nature is used as a selling point on a Wisper. A very good idea it is too..

When I spoke to Bob at PowaCycle he mentioned a box but I'm not sure if it was something they fitted or is current (pic attached though).

Whilst adding any break / connection in a conductor will potentially make it less reliable I feel the pros outweigh the cons. Like the ability to fault find by substitution or test little mods without having to do any major wiring surgery. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

 

[T i m]

Consider the Schwalbe Marathon Supremes or the Big Apples instead, you can run fatter tyres at lower pressure. They then do all that the Marathon Pluses do but also give extra suspension, which is very useful with a hub motor.

Nick

I didn't think 'lower pressure' and 'good rolling resistance' went hand in hand though Nick? I know pneumatic tyres are supposed to distort (to 'absorb' small obstacles rather than lifting the machine over them) but everything that seems to care about energy conservation has high pressure tyres?

I know bigger tyres can run at lower pressure and still support the same mass but how does that affect the rolling resistance?

I may well have missed something though. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Don't get me wrong, anything that make the ride more comfortable at no technical cost would be a plus. Are the Supremes really as hard wearing and puncture resistant as the Pluses?

 

[jerrysimon]

I have both Big Apples on my MTB and now recently Plus's on my Cytronex. The Apples definately provide more "suspension" but the Plus's seem to roll much easier.

That said I am comparing 26" and 28" wheels which is a little unfair. As my Cytronex has sprung front forks I think over all on daily commutes, I much prefer the Cytronex. However this again could be because of the larger wheels.

I was amazed at the difference when riding my 26" mountain bike compared to my 28" Cytronex in unpowered mode. The Cytronex with the larger wheels just seems to glide along.

That said my new Brompton has just turned up and it has 16" wheels

Just a plug for SJS Cycles. Intially I was going to buy my Plus's off ebay but in the end phoned these guys up. They were very helpful on the phone and went through the pros and cons with me, so in the end I thought they earnt the little extra they costed me when I ordered off them.

Regards

Jerry

 

[Tiberius]

I didn't think 'lower pressure' and 'good rolling resistance' went hand in hand though Nick? I know pneumatic tyres are supposed to distort (to 'absorb' small obstacles rather than lifting the machine over them) but everything that seems to care about energy conservation has high pressure tyres?

On the same size tyre, that is so. Pumping up to higher pressure will lower the rolling resistance. But with a wider tyre, you can get the same rolling resistance at a lower pressure.

The reason road bikes have narrow rims and tyres is to save weight and reduce aerodynamic drag. They have to be pumped up to ridiculous pressures. Roadies don't care about comfort; they like pain. I have a road bike with wheels that are fine enough to shave with - I reluctantly decided against converting it to electric.

Nick

 

[T i m]

I have both Big Apples on my MTB and now recently Plus's on my Cytronex. The Apples definately provide more "suspension" but the Plus's seem to roll much easier.

That said I am comparing 26" and 28" wheels which is a little unfair. As my Cytronex has sprung front forks I think over all on daily commutes, I much prefer the Cytronex. However this again could be because of the larger wheels.

Ok. When we got the Thorn Tandem, Robin (Thorn) suggested the Marathons were much harder work than other makes / models out there and I'm sure (with his experience) that was right. However, we were a big heavy crew and the last thing we wanted was a puncture anywhere, ever (if possible). ;-)

I was amazed at the difference when riding my 26" mountain bike compared to my 28" Cytronex in unpowered mode. The Cytronex with the larger wheels just seems to glide along.

Hmm, I'm 6'2" and ride a 23" trail bike and 26" wheels look like castors under me. ;-(

That said my new Brompton has just turned up and it has 16" wheels

Our ally folders have 20" wheels and are also Marathon shod (same logic re wanting to get home etc). Don't get me wrong, if it's bullet proof, grips well in the wet and lasts reasonably well (I know you can't generally have good grip and long life) and then (after the other things) rolls well and I can afford it, then I'm interested whatever they are. ;-)

Just a plug for SJS Cycles. Initially I was going to buy my Plus's off ebay but in the end phoned these guys up. They were very helpful on the phone and went through the pros and cons with me, so in the end I thought they earnt the little extra they costed me when I ordered off them.

I'll second your plug, great bunch down there. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. When I drove down from London to see Robin about the tandem we were there till about 7pm and there was no hit of hurry up from him (even though I felt guilty).

 

[T i m]

On the same size tyre, that is so. Pumping up to higher pressure will lower the rolling resistance. But with a wider tyre, you can get the same rolling resistance at a lower pressure.

The reason road bikes have narrow rims and tyres is to save weight and reduce aerodynamic drag. They have to be pumped up to ridiculous pressures.

Ok and thanks for clearing that up for me.

Roadies don't care about comfort; they like pain. I have a road bike with wheels that are fine enough to shave with - I reluctantly decided against converting it to electric.

Hehe!

OK, so, I notice they only do the Supreme in 26x2". I'm guessing the extra 1/4" (over the 26x1.75" Pluses) would be ok on the std PowaCycle rims and frame / forks / brakes etc?

Cheers, T i m