MXUS 350w on Giant Trance build

eHomer

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 20, 2012
635
164
Here's another build after AWOL's using another of Dave's MXUS 350w rear hubs with a cassette spline.

right side.jpg

I'd asked a question on here about electrifying my recumbent with a 20" front wheel hub motor. Among the replies and tips, Dave suggested using a hub motor in the 26" rear wheel for better drive.

It sounded very attractive but got me thinking about the conversion I'd tried on my Giant Trance full suspension bike. I wanted a little more power than the 250w front hub I'd tried in other bikes. I therefore put in a 1000w 48v direct drive rear hub motor, and ran it at 36v, which I'd standardised my Lithium batteries at.

It gave a good cruising speed, about 22mph, but didn't suit my purpose, that of a true dual purpose bike. I wanted motor assistance without increasing the unassisted pedaling effort. The 1000w motor was so heavy, and coupled with the permanent drag, pedaling alone wasn't a comfortable option.

This geared MXUS motor is much lighter and has no drag when pedaling unassisted. It can also take the original 9 speed cassette cluster, so the gearing is unaffected.

9 speed cluster.jpg

Dave boosted the current in the controller slightly for me, so to help dissipate the heat, I mounted it in a Maplin die cast alloy box rather than a bag. I bolted the controller through the side with longer heat sink bolts and coated the joining sufaces with thermal paste, so the whole alloy box is now heat sink as well. The uncut excess wires fold up neatly inside. I put a row of drain holes underneath at the lowest point in case any moisture gets in.

controller rubber mounted .jpginside controller box.jpgsuspension.jpg

It's rubber mounted to the rack. It's also easy to feel while pedaling, to see if it's ever getting hot. (stone cold so far !)

The 36 volt 10ah lithium batteries were already in proprietary cases from another of my bikes, so I mount them in the small panniers. A velcro strap inside stops them flopping about, as they're standing vertically.

battery in pannier.jpg

I don't know what range is yet, but on my first 10 mile test run it appeared to use less than half of one battery. The beauty of a true dual purpose bike that can be easily pedalled is that running out of battery on a long run isn't such a dire prospect.

The bike has Magura hydraulic disc brakes, with an 8" rotor on the front, so stopping power is excellent.

These photos were taken on my first test run this afternoon, through some very muddy lanes. I use a pump up garden sprayer when I get back home to rinse the mud off while it's still wet. It gets it off easily without blasting too much water into the bearings etc..

bars and lcd.jpgmotor.jpgrear.jpgright side and controller.jpg
all washed again .jpg

The graphs are from the Garmin website after uploading the track from my GPS watch. As you can see, it's very flat here, but then I am quite heavy, around 95kg. It was only a 10 mile run, and I didn't hammer the throttle, and only used a maximum assist of 4 (out of 5). The top speed was just short of 20mph, but I think it would do about 22 on the flat, as was predicted.

garmin data.jpg

The motor is very quiet, about the same as the 1000w direct hub.

I'm very pleased with the conversion, the electrification has hardly detracted the bikes unassisted pedaling at all, and the whole thing, with all my bags etc., but without the batteries, weighs 24 kg, only about 3kg more than before.
 

awol

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2013
1,216
374
Nice job eHomer.
I particularly like your idea of putting the controller in a diecast alum case and using that as a heatsink, I have been pondering over how to get my controller out of the small bag but keeping it waterproof myself and may borrow your idea.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
That's a very nice bike, and you built it quickly too. It looks like a very capable multi-functional bike. I especially like the way the rack fits. I look forward to more performance data when you have it.
 

eHomer

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 20, 2012
635
164
Thanks for the feedback.

Yes Awol, I'm quite happy the way the controller box turned out.

I'd gone in to Maplins to peruse their stock of plastic and metal boxes, with a cardboard replica of the controller. That particular die cast box was just the right size to accommodate the controller and the folded up excess wiring without struggling with it.
They're quite well made too, with a nice lip around the inside of the lid, making them almost watertight without any gaskets or sealant.

It's strange how so many kits and ready made ebikes have enclosed plastic boxes holding the finned heatsinked controllers, severely restricting the airflow around them.


I know what you mean about the rack Dave, I had to search far and wide for a fully adjustable rack that would fit a full sus bike without resorting to a seat post mounting. The type I bought (from Ebay) was very adaptable and very secure with the two extra DIY alluminium bars going down to the defunct V brake mounts.


I guess many people reading those first test figures will feel they could pedal faster than that ! I have a longer regular run that I often do, still fairly flat but around 20 miles. I'll up the average to about 17 mph, and see how the battery handles it.
 

jackhandy

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 20, 2012
1,820
323
the Cornish Alps
Nothing wrong with an average speed of 12mph, partickly this time of year avoiding frostbitten lugholes.

If you're retired, as I am now, you've got all day so enjoy the scenery in the comfort that you can stop pedalling any tike you like :D
 

eHomer

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 20, 2012
635
164
Quite true Jack.

Though it is fun to be able to nonchalantly blast past the Lycra clad mob when the setup is nice and stealthy. :)

Even when it had the big black 1000w direct drive hub, it raised a few eyebrows.
 

eHomer

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 20, 2012
635
164
Dave gave me a tip about fixing the torque arm.

Rather than use the jubilee clip, the link arm can be modified to line up with an existing fixing point, like the brake caliper mounting bolt.

Another thing I found out from bitter experience, you need to make it easy to remove the rear wheel in case of a split tube.

I therefore fixed the torque link to captive studs, so you only need to undo the two easily accessible 6mm lock nuts to remove it.

I also always leave a loop of about a foot of the motor cable, so that the wheel can be dropped from the frame without needing to open up the controller box to unplug it.

torque arm fixing.jpg
 

awol

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2013
1,216
374
I could have done with a photo of a fitted torque arm like yours a few months ago, great tips too. I don't like the way I've fitted mine and was looking at it this weekend and have opted to redesign and make a bespoke one specific for my bike fittings. Will update my thread when mines fitted too.