my enerprof softpack has arrived but not with lg mj1 but samsung 35e

[Sturmey]

Top cells for cycle life appear to be 29E, M36 and MJ1.

I made up an auxiliary battery lately with 40 of 29E but they were version 6 and had solder u tags and (I thought) were at a good price of 2.22 euro each.
Anyhow, one thing I noticed on ES is that they are testing their cell life at 1C or less, and there seems to be a general recommendation on the forum to keep battery currents down to this if you want good battery life. (There seems to be bad reports on 30Q and other high discharge cells).

NKON | Samsung INR18650-29E 2900mAh E6 - 8.25A with U-tag - 18650 - Li-ion - Rechargeable batteries

<a href="/sk/k/29E.pdf" target="_blank">Datasheet</a>

eu.nkon.nl

 

[Nealh]

The 29E is a low power cell, I bemoaned it's worth on here a few years ago. That was because I abused it a bit too much with higher discharge. If it is treated well it is a top performer for it price point. My pair of 29Es now well into their 6th year still give me 40 miles range each if I molly them a bit, for my use for commuting and town errands they are very good though I have to keep current at PAS 1 or 2.

1c for 29E is 2.9a so for a 5P battery 14.5a or 15a controller is the perfect match for it, though no reason why you can't push it to a 20a controller operating 5P cells as 1c would only be 1.37c
If one wants ultimate cycle life charging regime needs altering as well and the habitual 4.2v full charge of batteries needs to be ignored by the more knowledgeable users for the most part and charge to 4.1v, to prevent any P group imbalance a full balance charge could be adopted every maybe 10 or 20 full cycles to keep P groups in check.

 

[Nealh]

Leaving cells at 4.2v should only be very short term and I only allow this for about a max of 6 - 8hrs when I carry out a full balance charge other wise I leave them at <3.9v per cell when not in use even if only for day or two.

Between 4.1v and 4.2v there is very little capacity of much use and certainly it isn't the theoretical 10% it is said to be nor does it give 10% range. I find with all my 2900mah batteries that the 0.1v only gives me approx. 1- 1.5 miles use before it is depleted. The extra 0.1v appears to do little for cycle life

 

[Nealh]

The high amp C rated cells like the VTC's & 30Q are good if you need them for high current draw other wise they loose capacity quite quickly.
The VTC6 is down to 92.5% capacity after only 100 cycles and the 30Q fairs a bit worse, If you need ultimate range then the LG MJ1 and M36 look like a good low - med powered cell, if range isn't critical the 29E looks best, though it also said the LG M29 good.
Of interest and one I'm watching is how the 21700 50E fairs, currently after 100 cycles it is matching the LG twins.

 

[Nealh]

I made up an auxiliary battery lately with 40 of 29E but they were version 6 and had solder u tags and (I thought) were at a good price of 2.22 euro each.
Anyhow, one thing I noticed on ES is that they are testing their cell life at 1C or less, and there seems to be a general recommendation on the forum to keep battery currents down to this if you want good battery life. (There seems to be bad reports on 30Q and other high discharge cells).

NKON | Samsung INR18650-29E 2900mAh E6 - 8.25A with U-tag - 18650 - Li-ion - Rechargeable batteries

<a href="/sk/k/29E.pdf" target="_blank">Datasheet</a>

eu.nkon.nl

Good to see I'm not the only one who take's interest in the ES guys efforts with cells testing.

 

[PC2017]

auxiliary battery lately with 40 of 29E

Assuming that's 4P, do you ever use it for high amp use?

If you need ultimate range then the LG MJ1

I wouldn't mind a good LG however there's no option for that brand.

Thanks for the info - food for (more) thought, I just read about the high discharge cell and cycle performance....

 

[PC2017]

So I went back to deciding mathematically, Its either the VTC or 29E, both 48v packs are the same price...

29E - 14.25ah 3a charger £330.00 with shipping
VTC - 13ah 3a charger £330.00 with shipping

Then I got thinking I am focused on 36v and remembered some one mentioning they use 14a on their 48v kit... Then it occurred to me, do the maths again so its fresh in my head and figure my requirements...

SO have I got this right??

on the 36v setup I am happy with 16.54 amps on the controller using about 595w at top end however due to the age of my batteries I am only getting 12 mile range then 10m more if I change the amp draw setting...

So on a 48V setup I will only need 14.66a (2nd lowest amp draw settings figure) which would be short bursts of 700+ watts no where near what I am going to use, I will probably stop at PAS 4 550-600 watts max so my amp draw would be at most 12.5a or less on PAS 3.

So the 29E (5p) would be enough and I get an extra ah for the price.

I can see why Nealh, you mainly stay with PAS 1 and 2.

And a 15a hailong stealth controller will cover all my bases and saving a buck or two on the final build!

 

[Sturmey]

Assuming that's 4P, do you ever use it for high amp use?

I am using the Samsung 29E's at 4P as an auxilary (parallel) battery along with the bikes original battery ( 8.8ah which has over 20,000 km /600 cycles clocked up) and has lost about 25% of its capacity. The bike controller is 14 amps max, so I guess the batteries have an easy life now.
I tend to do long bike runs and like plenty of capacity anyway.

One point thats made is that as the battery ages, its capacity drops and also its internal resistance rises. This puts a lot more pressure on the ageing battery if its size is small, and the battery deteriorates more quickly. Fitting (even a small) extra parallel battery seems to prolong the life of a battery.

 

[Nealh]

Tbh with a current setting controller using more then PAS 2 is a waste of time unless you encounter a lot of hills, on level terrain the extra amps drawn above PAS 2 is wasted really as you will only benefit from extra torque on acceleration. No more speed is gained as that is down to voltage used. The high drain cells are good if you want current or a low capacity battery that needs the extra current, but as the ES cycle testing is showing the high drain cells are cycling worse then the 5 -10a cells.

With a speed controller one would be drawing max current all the time as each PAS has a different max speed limit.

Don't forget that the 48v packs are heavier then 36v but the advantage is more Wh for the same capacity so more range.

 

[PC2017]

When it comes down to it I really do have to make a choice for either one of them cells, I had a quick look at em3ev and aliexpress these seem to be around the same price point as enerprof but two other sites I checked out where well over priced for my budget. Em3ev and ali would incur VAT I am sure of that and at that price I cant take that hit, so I will go with 29e in the case that can house the internal controller...

Thanks for all the input, as always much it's appreciated...