My frame has snapped

[Mussels]

Oh, crikey - I see what you mean. There's not a lot you can do with that short of a 'proper' weld.

I guess if you have been using the seat tube well up and you are on the heavy side, there must be a huge amount of leverage. Mine certainly doesn't rattle around in the tube, so I suppose that the whole upper part of the tube has distorted over time. Aluminium alloy does weaken due to fatigue much more readily than does steel, so you might need to think along the line of the whole frame having been weakened. Bad news indeed.

Rog.

The rattling round was a mistake on my part, to enable the tear the back of the tube had to hinge away from the front which made the hole look bigger than it was. Now I have slid the seat post right down the problem isn't noticable, it's a shame the cramp in my legs is noticable but at least it is rideable?

 

[torrent99]

A long seat tube is attractive but if the clamp can't hold my weight then I worry that the tube pushing down onto the bottom bracket will cause more problems, with the suspension that wont happen.

I hadn't thought of that, I suppose it could be an issue on a really long tube.

The JB weld is a good idea but will that prevent a proper weld?

To be honest I wasn't thinking that a proper weld would be possible. Really only thinking of a temporary solution until you get a new frame.

I was thinking a nice big glob to act as the main "weld". Then stick on a "wrap" of metal (tin can?/ fibre glass?) with as much overlap as you can get. If you can spare a seat post, maybe even glue the post in as well! (unless that would completely foul up battery removal).

Your experience has got me worried, I think I'll replace that pesky quick release with a proper bolt. Anyone know what size bolt I need for a seat post bolt?

 

[Mussels]

I finally got round to telling Wisper about it this morning and they have responded quickly asking when they can get hold of it to fix.
This looks like it's nowhere near as inconvenient as the spoke problems after all.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

New Frame

Hi Mussells, that looks awful! It's the first time that a frame has failed, please accept our appologies.

We have changed to the clamp to the type that goes over the frame post quite a long time ago now. Your bike needs a new frame I am afraid, when can we meet up so I can get it down to Norman for the guys to replace it? We will need the bike for about a week but we will lend you another to use whilst yours is in the shop.

All on warranty of course!

Best regards David

 

[Mussels]

Hi Mussells, that looks awful! It's the first time that a frame has failed, please accept our appologies.

We have changed to the clamp to the type that goes over the frame post quite a long time ago now. Your bike needs a new frame I am afraid, when can we meet up so I can get it down to Norman for the guys to replace it? We will need the bike for about a week but we will lend you another to use whilst yours is in the shop.

All on warranty of course!

Best regards David

Fantastic, I'll send you an email.

 

[fishingpaul]

I am very impressed with this level of customer service,no questions asked and eager to put the problem right superb.

 

[Rad]

I had a feeling they'd come through for you Mussels.
I'm well impressed with Wisper's response. Consider my cap duly doffed to them!

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Many thanks

Thanks for your kind comments guys.

The reason we always try and act quickly and responsibly as possible is we believe that service is paramount to any business. If someone has invested over £1000 on a vehicle then they deserve to be looked after.

Service also gives us the opportunity to discover any areas where our bikes need to be improved. This is the first frame that has ever caused us a problem so we are keen to get it into our workshops to see why it has failed.

Because we take a keen interest in any critasism or failure, we now experience very few problems, which makes curing the few we do get so much easier.

All the best and thanks for your input.

David

 

[the_killjoy]

I know it is an old thread but my frame has just failed at the same point, the bike is 2 1/2 yers old but has only done about 2000miles, I am going to have to get on Wisper and see what they can do to help.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Hi Kiljoy, sorry to read about the problem, please contact wisper support and we will sort something out for you.

Best regards

David

 

[banbury frank]

Hi

Everything man makes man breaks ( or lady )

This Is why support is so important

But As usual wisper are there when you need them

Well done David And Team


Frank

 

[the_killjoy]

Thanks David, i will take some photos when i get home and forward them on.

 

[Mussels]

I know it is an old thread but my frame has just failed at the same point, the bike is 2 1/2 yers old but has only done about 2000miles, I am going to have to get on Wisper and see what they can do to help.

Out of interest are you using the original suspension seat post, and do you have it set to the maximum setting? I think that contributed to the failure on mine as the seat tube is pretty short, couple that with the short seat post and it makes a weak spot. About the same time for me the seat post snapped as well, I replaced it with a 400mm fixed post which will give extra strength and enabled me to put the saddle slightly higher.
As David said the design has changed to make the seat tube stronger but it's worth keeping the above in mind.

 

[the_killjoy]

I do have the original seat post , I have noticed that the later bikes have taller tube on the frame above the weld. Like yours the failure point was at the bottem of the adjuster 'slot' on the frame tube just above the weld.

 

[theskip1]

Mind you, Mussels has probably put in many more miles than most Wisper owners. Perhaps it's a late onset design issue? In any case I'm confident David will sort it (he's not having a good day is he? )

yes you could have a point. aluminium is prone to work hardening, so a long time with even a slight flex could cuase the frame to fail, now that there are two failures the odds are shortening. i think a longer saddle post may help as long as its a snug fit.

 

[Scatty]

A Mass recall looks like in order , cheap chinese metal .

 

[Mussels]

A Mass recall looks like in order , cheap chinese metal .

I don't get it.

 

[flecc]

A Mass recall looks like in order , cheap chinese metal .

More likely British, this is how it works:

Each year we buy 2 million bikes, but as the evidence on the roads shows, they only get ridden once and then get thrown into the back of the garage. After decaying there for a long time, the owners get fed up with them around and dump them into a skip or council depot.

Then they are recycled, compressed and containerised and sent to China as scrap metal. The Chinese use the scrap to make 2 million new bikes which we then buy again and don't ride.

 

[the_killjoy]

Having received my replacement frame I am now starting to swop the pieces over from the old bike.

I am just removing the bottom bracket from the old frame but am not sure what tool to use to remove the drive side bearing, the fitting is :

 

[Blew it]

I expect there is a proper tool for this, but on my own 905 I used an alloy drift and a small hammer to undo the cone. It is of course a left-hand thread on the drive-side.

When the cone is removed you will notice a tapered register on it's inner end which mates with it's counterpart in the bottom bracket shell. when refitting the cone just tighten to refusal using the drift and hammer. A brass drift, or even a piece of hardwood dowel will do. Before refitting the fixed cone, both threads should be cleaned using an old toothbrush to remove any road grit, It's a very fine pitch and all too easy to cross the threads.

Before fitting the locking ring, smear a little grease on each side of the pedelec sensor ring, this will help in maintaining the position of the ring as the locking collar is tightened.