Thank you, I must admit, I hadn't thought of chipping it out. Although they are deeper than shown in the picture in your post.
I'll order a sensor (and spares) and give chipping out a whirl.
Thanks, once again for your help and suggestions.
Ian
My Torq has died
- Thread starter imellor
- Start date
I'll order a sensor (and spares) and give chipping out a whirl.
Thanks, once again for your help and suggestions.
Ian
Ian,
Have a go at getting the old one out first, but if not, your idea of using the appropriate empty slot ought to work. You shouldn't even have to rewire the other two sensors.
You can easily test it before you close the motor up to check that the 3 sensors are on different phases.
If you do have to switch sensors/phase wires around it can be done outside the motor at the cable join on the forks.
Nick
Have a go at getting the old one out first, but if not, your idea of using the appropriate empty slot ought to work. You shouldn't even have to rewire the other two sensors.
You can easily test it before you close the motor up to check that the 3 sensors are on different phases.
If you do have to switch sensors/phase wires around it can be done outside the motor at the cable join on the forks.
Nick
Ian,
Just had a look as a scrap one I've got. The Hall sensors come out very easily. There is a slight recess machined in the laminations to take the sensors, so you wouldn't be able to fit the new one in a different position. Yours may be different of course. Mine is 18 windings with 20 magnets.
Nick
Just had a look as a scrap one I've got. The Hall sensors come out very easily. There is a slight recess machined in the laminations to take the sensors, so you wouldn't be able to fit the new one in a different position. Yours may be different of course. Mine is 18 windings with 20 magnets.
Nick
That gives you an insight into how they work, Nick - you always have a multiple of three windings (so 15, 18, 21 - etc) because there are three circuits, and each circuit feeds every third winding. The different number of magnets means that only two magnets are opposite two windings when one circuit is energized - and when the controller sequences to the next circuit, the nearest magnet gets attracted to the nearest energized winding, which is only (in your case) 2 divided by 18x20 of a revolution, which is exactly two degrees of rotation.
Because the two numbers - 18 and 20 - are fairly close, and they are both divisible by 2, there will be two magnets on opposite sides of the motor in the right position.
That's how these motors manage to be so quiet - with a 180-step sequence for every revolution, the operation can be really smooth. Also, the 'target' magnet is very close to the pole of the 'target' winding when it gets turned on, so you get maximum torque.
Rog.
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. Stepping animation of a six winding motor with colour coded activity of poles, sensors and decoder:Servo Magnetics
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That's pretty!
Servo Magnetics
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I had to take three stabs at it to get the maths right - but I think I'm now correct for the 18 windings/20 magnets setup Nick was referring to.
In a previous life writing software for the fruit machine business I learned ALL about stepper motors!
Rog.
I only learnt how to get more out than I should!
Still remember infuriating an arcade owner at Swanage very many years ago.
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Ah found memories of the chain ferry!!!!I only learnt how to get more out than I should!
Still remember infuriating an arcade owner at Swanage very many years ago.
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Yes, I've been over the Sandbanks to Shell Bay ferry many times, used to live at Bournemouth in my motorcycling teens. Incident I mentioned was a few years later though, when I'd crossed in a car.
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What a small world the e-bike community turns out to be. I grew up in Dorset so I know that area well. I don't think I ever cycled there but that whole Poole Harbour/Purbeck area is somewhere I have hiked, driven, swum, sailed and canoed, and more lately flown aircraft over. I even used to go out with a girl from Swanage.
Nick
Nick
Certainly is Nick. I still regularly visit my brother at Moigne Combe east of Dorchester and my niece and her family at Corfe Castle. I also used to own a boat based at Littlehampton and was often along that Dorset coast, anchoring overnight at Goathorn Point, Poole; Lulworth Cove or in harbour at Weymouth.
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Wow, I'm glad this was not a "Technical" discussion...
I look forward to the day when this type of discussion is either unnecessary, or restricted to professional e-bike technicians, rather than consumers.
I look forward to the day when this type of discussion is either unnecessary, or restricted to professional e-bike technicians, rather than consumers.
Hi there!
Well, there is quite a bit of interest in the technical aspects in here, not least because there are kit bikes, mix 'n' match home-brew bikes, and of course bikes bought in good faith from now-defunct suppliers.
Obviously some members are also inclined to tinker and have the time - unlike me! Although I'm an engineer (electronics, mainly) I take the easy road and buy a bike from a reputable (hopefully) supplier, and hopefully don't HAVE to tinker, though I will if I'm pushed.
I wouldn't take my e-bike back to the mail-order place it came from if I had a problem with it unless I couldn't possibly avoid it, as it's not exactly round the corner, and I wanted to make the best price for the product I wanted to buy. 'Professional e-bike technicians' are probably just a bit thin on the ground at present, as there are not all that many e-bikes around.
Shared knowledge is always useful. What else would we discuss?
Rog.
Technical aspects of ebiking
The technical "conversations" are great. I even understood the description of how the magnets in the motor work. I joined the forum to gain knowledge and it is better than Wikipedia as a reference source (and more likely to be true). I think the average age of members is over 50 so this forum is proof that it is never too late to learn, or to teach. I even think I am learning by osmosis as I look through the posts.
Conal
The technical "conversations" are great. I even understood the description of how the magnets in the motor work. I joined the forum to gain knowledge and it is better than Wikipedia as a reference source (and more likely to be true). I think the average age of members is over 50 so this forum is proof that it is never too late to learn, or to teach. I even think I am learning by osmosis as I look through the posts.
Conal
We try to incorporate both without becoming too annoying to either interest group. To keep out some of the Technical stuff, we have a separate Technical section for permanent tech items.
Those who want to be non technical can post in here as they wish, and we even have a section where the discussion doesn't have to be about e-bikes:
The Charging Post
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I would like to thank everyone for their assistance in getting my Torq back on the road. It isn't quite there yet, as I need to put everything back together, but the motor now runs.
I originally bought this hall sensor Rapid, but during my testing I relaised that it gave a positive output and the original sensors gave a negative output.
So I ordered one of these Farnell and everything seems OK.
I could not have completed this repair without the knowledge and help of everyone here, so thank you very much.
Ian
I originally bought this hall sensor Rapid, but during my testing I relaised that it gave a positive output and the original sensors gave a negative output.
So I ordered one of these Farnell and everything seems OK.
I could not have completed this repair without the knowledge and help of everyone here, so thank you very much.
Ian
Well done Ian, that's good news.
The first Hall sensor you list is a ratiometric one, good for measuring the strength of magnetic fields. It could also be used as a current sensor. The other one is a switching type, which is what you need.
While you're with Farnell, I use Binder 712 connectors for the 5 Hall leads on my motors. Together with Anderson Powerpoles for the phase wires, it makes it easy not only to disconnect the whole assembly but also to mix and match controllers, etc and swap parts between bikes.
Nick
The first Hall sensor you list is a ratiometric one, good for measuring the strength of magnetic fields. It could also be used as a current sensor. The other one is a switching type, which is what you need.
While you're with Farnell, I use Binder 712 connectors for the 5 Hall leads on my motors. Together with Anderson Powerpoles for the phase wires, it makes it easy not only to disconnect the whole assembly but also to mix and match controllers, etc and swap parts between bikes.
Nick
Unfortunately I am guilty of not paying attention to the Datasheet until I had recieved the first hall sensor, hence ordeing the switching one later!!!!
Thanks for the tip re the connectors, that's exactly the sort of thing I was looking for, it will make removing the front wheel much easier
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