New build internal wiring

jonluk

Just Joined
Aug 13, 2020
3
1
Hi all, I'm putting together a road bike using a tsdz2.
Has anyone tried routing the cables internally within a frame ?
I'm guessing that I'll need to remove the cable within the motor and replace it with a new one.
I'm quite surprised I can't find any thread where people have needed to replace cables, is it easy to do ?
 

Old_Dave

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 15, 2012
1,211
2
Dumfries & Galloway
Hi
Has anyone tried routing the cables internally within a frame ?
Yes it's just basic mechanics and low voltage electrics.

However (there's always a however)
The frame is a series of sealed tubes... once the seal is broken and then all the issues of water / condensation / rust both internally and at drill holes rear their ugly heads, so once the holes are made, then 'all' bare metal should of course be treated and grommets used where cables enter / exit.

Hint... connecters should be placed strategically and a drain hole at a tubes lowest point

So yes its easy to do but after you have done it once, its apparent why it hasn't caught on :rolleyes:
 
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jonluk

Just Joined
Aug 13, 2020
3
1
My donor frame is already designed for internal brake/gear cables. I've no issue with drilling holes if required. What I'm trying to do is to avoid just cutting and patching the wiring - no great issue but would look a bit messy.
What I'm thinking is to remove the wire from the motor, shorten it considerably. Then have an extension wire within the frame which the controller and motor just plugs into.
I can't find any pics of the motor in bits to see how easy it is to get at the wiring connection points.
 
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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,131
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West Sx RH
Bikes with internal cable routing have designed reinforced cable inlet/oulets, simply drilling new cable runs doesn't give this option and may cause frame weakness via metal corrosion/fatigue.
 

jonluk

Just Joined
Aug 13, 2020
3
1
Bikes with internal cable routing have designed reinforced cable inlet/oulets, simply drilling new cable runs doesn't give this option and may cause frame weakness via metal corrosion/fatigue.
I'll be using a 1x11 so will have the front derailleur routing free. I'm hoping to use that route for the wiring.
We shall see once all my parts arrive. Obviously before altering anything I want to test the motor etc to make sure it actually works.