New Super Light Tongxin Motor Design/Kit

[bmc]

I think they probably upgraded the electronics and now have put a sine-wave controller in the hub. My guess is that the brake cutout circuit basically sets the assist level to zero so that the motor stops instantly.

Thanks for that Richard........great information....just what I need.

Sky has sent me a replacement LED today, so hopefully that gets me up and running.

Starting in level 3 sounds very scary and if mine does the same, then ,if you don't mind, I think I'll be coming back to you for instructions on how to do the throttle mod.

Bill.

 

[bmc]

Well guys.......looks like my first venture into Ebikes has been a dismal failure !!

Replacement LED didn't help.....motor still dead.

Reply from Keyde:-
"We judge the triode on the control board is broken, this part is very difficult to change. So you can arrange send the inside motor back to us for repairing."

Now, at 72 years of age, I just cant be assed with all the hassle and paperwork and the cost that this entails.

Just wondering if there is anyone out there willing to have a go fixing this motor for a reasonable fee ??
This is what it looks like:-

Bill

 

[dingrpdl]

This is what it looks like:-View attachment 8500

Bill

Interesting... They have changed the design considerably from when I bought mine last year. The circuit board is completely different. And even the motor casing is different.

Richard

 

[jerrysimon]

I had the earlier version, probably one of the first narrow 80mm one that came out though this did not have the circuit inside but an external controller.

I have since purchased three more of the narrow 80mm ones (again these narrow ones don't have internal controllers) for small wheel/folding bikes and the later ones are different both in terms of the casing and the fact that the cable exits from the opposite right side which is much better for the Brompton fold.

Having used both the larger Tonxgin and the Keyde motors my conclusion and recommendation would be to stick with the Tongxin unless your want to keep it all light and don't plan to push the motor hard in terms of not assist much yourself. Of course you are only saving about 0.5kg which makes the appeal less in terms of the additional torque and assistance you will get form the Tongxin. The Tongxin is also virtually silent in use over the Keyde which is quiet but not silent.

On my steel Brompton I will continue to use my Tongxin motors but on my super light Titanium Brompton I will stick with the Keyde to optimise the weight. I have about 12 months use and although the motor has got a little noisier, it still appears reliable.

I seem to have been lucky with the use of these motors but there definitely does seem to be a few reliability issues with the Keyde motors.

Jerry

 

[Deleted member 4366]

My advice: chuck that motor and get a rear 328 rpm Q100CST and a KU65 controller. If you're brave, get a S06S as well. It'll probably work. If not, the KU65 will, and you can sell whichever one you don't use on Ebay for a profit. My information now is that Keyde motors still have a very high failure rate.

 

[bmc]

My advice: chuck that motor and get a rear 328 rpm Q100CST and a KU65 controller. If you're brave, get a S06S as well. It'll probably work. If not, the KU65 will, and you can sell whichever one you don't use on Ebay for a profit. My information now is that Keyde motors still have a very high failure rate.

Welcome your advice D8veh. That Q100cst sounds like a good alternative to the Keyde, being similar in size and weight. Could I use the little keyde 36v 6.2 Ahr bottle battery with that ?

I'm only light....68Kgs. I do a 12 mile loop which is pretty much up and down and I can pedal it all with no assistance, but there are a couple of 10%-15% hills(only short..about 300mtrs.) which I struggle on.

Two of them are at the end of the ride up to my house, and just leave me exhausted and gasping for breath and kinda spoil the ride.

So I'm trying to keep a lightweight road bike with a small motor that I can ride normally, but when I start to struggle on the steep hills, I can just feed in a bit of assistance.

I'm thinking I don't need PAS, just a thumb throttle, but again I welcome your advice on this.

Also as I'm pretty clueless on the electrics, can you explain the differences with the 2 controllers.

Thanks
Bill

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Your battery should be Ok as long as it's the 36v one (42v charged), not the 33v one.

The PAS with the SO6S is really nice. You don't need it, but it seems a shame to waste such a nice feature. It only costs a couple of quid extra too.

The difference is that the S06S has the nice LCD and 5 PAS levels. It's also a sine-wave one, which makes it smpother, quieter and slightly more efficient. The KU65 has a LED display with three PAS levels, sort of old technology now, but pretty robust.

If you go for the S12S, you need to order the LCD and wheel-speed sensor separately.

You can use an independent throttle with either controller.

 

[bmc]

Your battery should be Ok as long as it's the 36v one (42v charged), not the 33v one.

The PAS with the SO6S is really nice. You don't need it, but it seems a shame to waste such a nice feature. It only costs a couple of quid extra too.

The difference is that the S06S has the nice LCD and 5 PAS levels. It's also a sine-wave one, which makes it smpother, quieter and slightly more efficient. The KU65 has a LED display with three PAS levels, sort of old technology now, but pretty robust.

If you go for the S12S, you need to order the LCD and wheel-speed sensor separately.

You can use an independent throttle with either controller.

Just checked my battery.......It's only 33v one.......fully charged it's 36.6v
Is that no good ?

Also, in your 3rd para. you say S06S, and next para. S12S. Is that just a typo ?

Thanks
Bill

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Bad luck. You'll only get half the capacity until the controller's lvc cuts it off. 33v controllers are pretty rare.

That was a typo. Should have been S06S.

 

[bmc]

Bad luck. You'll only get half the capacity until the controller's lvc cuts it off. 33v controllers are pretty rare.

That was a typo. Should have been S06S.

Does that mean it will work, but I'll only get 3.1Ahr ? and if I could get a 33v controller I would get the full 6.2Ahr. ?

Amazing the difference 3v makes !!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Yes. a 36v controller will shut off at about 31v. I don't know what's in your battery.If it were LiFePO4, it would be 10 cells that give up most of their charge between 3.3v and 3.0v, so you'd get a fair amount of its capacity, but for other chemistries you'd get less - or maybe more, depending on what it is.It might be worth a try.

 

[jerrysimon]

Couldn't you get a programmable controller and set the LVC lower ?

I guess with lower voltage, a 36V motor will spin slower ?

Regards

Jerry

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Good point.The LCD3 that you can but for the S06S controller has a programmable LVC. You'd have to read the manual to see what you can do with it because it still has limits. Click the download tab.

http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/670-s-led770-e-bike-led-meter.html