Not a great start with e-bikes. Chain continually jumps off the front sprocket.

So my wife bought a Haibike SDuro 1.0 2020 from Tredz online in December, and it was fine for a month or so, but recently the chain keeps jumping off the front sprocket and jamming down between the motor housing and the sprocket, when it does this, it's jammed solid, there is no chance of a roadside fix. She phones me up, and I have to go out with a chain splitter, split the chain, pull it out and rejoin it.

 

It obviously shouldn't be doing this. She has lost all confidence in the bike, and disheartened that a bike this expensive is doing this, and when it does it, poor design from Haibike/Bosch means that it's not an easy recovery.

 

Both the retailer and the manufacturer have washed their hands of the problem, it seems bikes are sold without any kind of support or legal responsibility.

 

I looked into chain catchers, but I am somewhat loathed to use one, as it feels like it would be masking the problem.

 

Any advice on how to get this sorted and restore my wife's confidence in her bike? Also anyone recommend a chain catcher that fits a SDuro (the ones I look at clamp round the frame upright, but that wouldn't work, as the motor casing rises higher than the top of the front sprocket.

 

Thanks.

So my wife bought a Haibike SDuro 1.0 2020 from Tredz online in December, and it was fine for a month or so, but recently the chain keeps jumping off the front sprocket and jamming down between the motor housing and the sprocket, when it does this, it's jammed solid, there is no chance of a roadside fix. She phones me up, and I have to go out with a chain splitter, split the chain, pull it out and rejoin it.

 

It obviously shouldn't be doing this. She has lost all confidence in the bike, and disheartened that a bike this expensive is doing this, and when it does it, poor design from Haibike/Bosch means that it's not an easy recovery.

 

Both the retailer and the manufacturer have washed their hands of the problem, it seems bikes are sold without any kind of support or legal responsibility.

 

I looked into chain catchers, but I am somewhat loathed to use one, as it feels like it would be masking the problem.

 

Any advice on how to get this sorted and restore my wife's confidence in her bike? Also anyone recommend a chain catcher that fits a SDuro (the ones I look at clamp round the frame upright, but that wouldn't work, as the motor casing rises higher than the top of the front sprocket.

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

Mine did that till I removed two links (Bafang BBS01b kit). Have they fitted the wrong length chain? If it was fine for a couple of months, has the chain stretched? If you're using a chain splitter regularly, are you leaving a link too tight? Is your drive chain wearing out? Would replacing the chain, cassette etc. solve the problem?

 

 

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/chain-jumping-slipping-under-load.29066/

 

Any advice on how to get this sorted

 

Well it shouldn't be doing it, so the first thing to do is to work out WHY its doing it.

So I followed her whilst out on a ride, and there is quite alot of bounce in the chain whilst cycling, and compared to my bike (a SDuro 3.0, which has a Shimano Deore which has a clutch), hers has significantly less chain tension (even without the clutch engaged).

 

Is there a way to measure chain tension?

So I followed her whilst out on a ride, and there is quite alot of bounce in the chain whilst cycling, and compared to my bike (a SDuro 3.0, which has a Shimano Deore which has a clutch), hers has significantly less chain tension (even without the clutch engaged).

 

Is there a way to measure chain tension?

 

 

There's a chain stretch measuring tool:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=chain+stretch+measure+tool

 

...and if it hasn't stretched, I would remove links one at a time until it stopped happening. If that didn't work, I'd investigate alignment issue possibilities. There seem to be a lot of people having chain issues with that bike on youtube. I think it might be likely that you'll have to figure out a fix to live with a flawed design.

Is it possible to work out if the chain is too long by looking at the angle of the derailleur? Took a couple of pics, top gear and bottom gear,

 

 

Is it possible to work out if the chain is too long by looking at the angle of the derailleur? Took a couple of pics, top gear and bottom gear,

 

[ATTACH=full]41437[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=full]41438[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

I tried doing that for my bike after looking at many online guides (formulas, angles, sag etc), and it got me into the right ballpark for the correct number of chain links for my old and strange bike - then I had to take a couple of links off till it worked. In my case, it was all brand new: chain, cassette, front (Bafang) crank, so wear wasn't a factor, but it may well be on yours. Why would your bike diverge from the specified number of links for your bike design?

Why would your bike diverge from the specified number of links for your bike design?

 

I was wondering the same, but to be honest, I don't know how internet sellers of e-bikes operate behind the scenes. When you buy from a Haibike from Tredz and they have to prepare your bike, what are they actually doing? Building it from what level?

 

As for wear, something is seriously wrong, surely, if something is worn after 300 miles.

Before doing anything, you could try adjusting the B screw on the back of your derailleur to put a bit more tension on the chain in top gear.

 

A logical question would be: Does it only jump off in top gear? If the answer is no, none of this will help and you'll have to look for a chain guide of some sort.

Obviously finding the course would be the best thing to do.

 

However my 2015 Haibike Sduro Yamaha hard tail mountain bike that came with a rudimentary chain guide would very occasionally drop the chain and then do so more often when the drive train was worn but stopped dropping the chain completely when I replaced the worn out cassette, chain and chain ring and replaced the old chain ring with a narrow wide chain ring.

 

I now really like narrow wide chain rings as they are generally quite substantial, resistant to wear, and grip the chain in a way that completely stops it dropping off.

Check each chain link for any damage twisting or a pin that may have come out of link plate.

This makes people wary of buying a new e bike online as any decent sellers of e bikes then you would think would look into this problem.. and have someone with experience come to look at it in front of you and fix this ...and if they cant then take the bike away and replaced with a new one the same in good working condition ... Not good enough when people pay so much as e bikes aint cheap ... and least we all would want is help when something isnt right when just had bike under a yr .. Just doesnt sound like a good retailer or manufacturer as they are ignoring ..sounds like thats the case then id name and shame both retailer and manufacturer online all around bike stores/forums everywhere ... this only after u have as said told them whats wrong and it needs sorting out and u want someone come and either fix for free or replaced ...and if they then dont give you help at all then open them up to all via internet and word of mouth around you .. Quick edit - Just seen this which is a good read and you should take a read of this ..https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/choose-electric-bike/

Edited March 22, 20215 yr by budsy

Also anyone recommend a chain catcher that fits a SDuro

 

 

When I first bought my Dahon, I was surprised to find this curious lump of nylon, which might be of interest to you:

 

 

 

 

 

 

It made me laugh! Looked like a bodge, an elastoplast stuck over a bad design choice somewhere along the chain...

 

It looks easy to make - if you can't find something similar that fits. I refuse to believe that anything which fits a old Dahon frame, would fit anything other than another old Dahon frame.

 

Yes, I know the bike is very dirty, but so is the man riding it

When I first bought my Dahon, I was surprised to find this curious lump of nylon, which might be of interest to you:

 

 

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="41462]41462[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

It made me laugh! Looked like a bodge, an elastoplast stuck over a bad design choice somewhere along the chain...

 

It looks easy to make - if you can't find something similar that fits. I refuse to believe that anything which fits a old Dahon frame, would fit anything other than another old Dahon frame.

 

Yes, I know the bike is very dirty, but so is the man riding it

 

I don't think it would fit.

 

I don't think it would fit.

 

[ATTACH=full]41463[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

Sugru? A huge mass of? Then glue it on? You might have to experiment with different shapes... then add a nylon bit where it contacts the chain. It might not work at all. Or wood with a nylon chain facing part? Or carve it out of one big block of nylon? Nylon is easy to work but still takes ages - I made nylon hinges for a tilting techical drawing table ... it was hell, but it still works. That nylon part on my Dahon has lasted decades, which is a bit of a surprise. Nylon seems quite durable, in the right application. It's a bloody awkward location though. Maybe you could start with a latex mould, then use that as a guide for whatever you try and improvise to fit? Fill the mould with fibreglass and/or sawdust and epoxy and then add nylon where it limits the chain? (after shaping). Shape a big hunk of aluminium and drill/thread it on? Or make the shape you need out of clay or Sugru and get someone to cast it?

 

It'd be great if you didn't have to reinvent the wheel and found something which will do the job - oodles of Googling in Google Products is needed methinks, and everywhere else.

 

Accurate 3D laser scanning isn't cheap - it'd be helpful if manufacturers released 3d models of all products as CAD files, so that people could design and 3D print something which fits exactly.

 

Of course, sorting out whatever is causing this problem is a better solution.

 

 

???:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SHARKFIN-MOUNTAIN-CHAINSTAY-PROTECTOR-YELLOW/dp/B06X19TVH8/

 

 

Who knows? Maybe you could do it with a handlebar GoPro mount with extensions holding a block of nylon, then glue the joints together when they're at the right position. No that wouldn't work, it'd break

Always best to identify and sort out the underlying problem.

 

I tight link in the chain, or badly set up derailleur. Hopefully the chain should be the right length but you would not want it too long.

 

When you are sure its all set up properly a narrow wide chain ring is in my opinion much more effective than a chain guide.

 

I once had a situation when my rear hub was wearing out that when free wheeling the chain was still pushed around rather than stationary and this also caused the chain to be dropped.

 

A new rear hub sorted that out.

 

But this is a new bike so it should be something related to derailleur set up, or a tight link in the chain.

Edited March 22, 20215 yr by georgehenry

Is the derailleur hanger bent?

I appreciate this particular horse has bolted, and depending on where you live it can be hard to achieve, but buying from a local dealer where you can easily take the bike back to if you get teething problems can be very helpful.

 

I bought my Haibike Yamaha crank drive bike in 2015 from a dealership 10 miles away and they have always been very helpful, replacing my first motor free of charge under the warranty right on the two year ownership point with no quibbles.

 

However a really well supported mail order set up like Woosh I am sure would also be a very good second best to a physical local dealership.

 

Really a set up that is not just interested in your initial purchase but happy and able to offer ongoing support. The whats new page of the pedelec site is usually dominated by owners with problems, so you should expect to have to fix your electric bike at some point.

I don't think it would fit.

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="PXL_20210321_095709981.jpg]41463[/ATTACH]

The photo shows that the chain is slipping off the outside of the chainwheel, so a normal chainguide wouldn't work. You need one that guides both sides, like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392916772677?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=392916772677&targetid=1139674280547&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007151&poi=&campaignid=12125464307&mkgroupid=118518248844&rlsatarget=pla-1139674280547&abcId=9300481&merchantid=6995734&gclid=CjwKCAjwgOGCBhAlEiwA7FUXkqQa4ZcdbIerYH3lrklo5FkcOWQehzaz6PhaDOF0XC-SCODi014MBRoCIegQAvD_BwE

 

Here's one specially for Bosch Gen 4 motors:

https://www.bikester.co.uk/reverse-chainguide-for-bosch-gen-4-e-bike-1105907.html

What I'd do is first of all, buy a new chain, as the one you have has now been subjected to all kinds of grief and it could well be damaged. They are not expensive to replace and they don't last long anyway.

 

Then rotate your cranks slowly and see if the front chain ring has been bent. Is it straight and true?

 

Then check that your derailleur hanger isn't bent. Is the chain line straight, relative to the front chain ring?

 

Then check the tension of the derailleur adjustment, see if that can be tightened.

 

Then remove links if the derailleur is already at maximum tension.

What I'd do is first of all, buy a new chain, as the one you have has now been subjected to all kinds of grief and it could well be damaged. They are not expensive to replace and they don't last long anyway.

 

Then rotate your cranks slowly and see if the front chain ring has been bent. Is it straight and true?

 

Then check that your derailleur hanger isn't bent. Is the chain line straight, relative to the front chain ring?

 

Then check the tension of the derailleur adjustment, see if that can be tightened.

 

Then remove links if the derailleur is already at maximum tension.

 

 

Through trial and error, that's what I did with mine (plus change cassette and chain, they were worn, into each other and the chain had stretched). Adjustment was a seemingly endless nightmare, but it all works a treat now! The nylon stay is helpful - you know you've got a lot more adjustment to do if it the chain hops past that, or contacts it too often, wearing it away. I was on the verge of buying a Leckie.

 

I'll have to adjust all over again when I put the 52T chainwheel back on soon (presently 42T). My legs are a lot stronger than they were when I restarted cyling at end of Dec 2020. I hope to in a few weeks or months, be able to tackle some of the local hills without electrical assistance. The wonderful thing about muscles is that they can become stronger, now matter how old we are.

 

Remove and replace whatever you must. It's worth being through adjusting the drivechain -your wife would be safer (ignore that last part of the sentence if, like me, you're planning on claiming life insurance millions. The trouble is, I think she's doing the same).

For correct chain length remove it from the derailleur and simply place it on the largest toothed gear front and rear, the chain ends should overlap by 2 links for Shimano gearing and 1 link for Sram gearing.

For correct chain length remove it from the derailleur and simply place it on the largest toothed gear front and rear, the chain ends should overlap by 2 links for Shimano gearing and 1 link for Sram gearing.

 

 

nealh, I hope you don't mind my asking, but this looks like a handy way to work out chain length and one which I haven't come across before - could you expand this? Not sure I understand what you mean. Are you saying unlink the chain, take it out of the rear detailleur and... what? Lost me there.

Yes, unlink the chain and remove from derailleur.

Fit chain around largest rear gear (1st gear) and also the largest toothed front chain ring, the two ends should pass each other by two links for Shimano derailleur or one link for SRAM. These are the recommended ways to measure correct chain length, once done simply refit as per normal.

Yes, unlink the chain and remove from derailleur.

Fit chain around largest rear gear (1st gear) and also the largest toothed front chain ring, the two ends should pass each other by two links for Shimano derailleur or one link for SRAM. These are the recommended ways to measure correct chain length, once done simply refit as per normal.

 

 

Thank you nealh! It's great learning a new way to work out chain length - I'll do that when I change my front chainwheel to 52T for speed.