Pro Connect Gears

[tillson]

I am finding that my Pro Connect is occasionally making a nasty banging noise from the drive system. This is accompanied by a judder on the pedals. It usually happens in the range 3rd to 6th gear. I think it is the gear hub slipping. Also, I sometimes detect that the gear ratio has changed without me making an input on the selector. I have had a look at the gear selector cable and in 1st it is completely slack with a fair amount of free play. The cable moves the cam on the gear hub with each click of the selector all the way through to 8th. I know nothing about setting up these gears and there is no information in the manual. I suspect that the cable might be slightly out of adjustment and the gears aren’t quite full engaged. Can anyone point me in the direction of gear setup information for this hub please? Or offer any opinion / advice?
On a more positive note, I collected my Pro Connect last Friday. So far, I am very impressed. After initially charging the battery when I got it home, I went out for a ride to run it right down as part of the "conditioning" exercise. After doing 36 miles of riding around a hilly part of Derbyshire in Standard Mode, it finally ran out. I am very impressed by this, I was actually expecting it to do between 20 and 25 miles.
I quickly find that my legs are going like bee’s wings, so I think a smaller cog (16 tooth) on the hub will be required before too long. What is this likely to do to the range of the bike based on the above?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Tom

 

[HarryB]

Try checking the chain tensioner for up and down movement. If it is sticky it allows the chain to slip on the rear sprocket - a little bit oil on the pivot will cure this. Lowering the gearing makes a surprising dent in the range in my experience (about 10 miles less on my commute).

 

[flecc]

The problem is almost certainly what Hal has described as this has been happening on a number of the new bikes, just the tightness of the new pivot on that tensioner. If that doesn't solve your problem, post back since it could also be a very slight gear cable adjustment needed.

If you go right down to a 16 tooth sprocket you'll probably find the range slumps to what you originally thought, 20 to 25 miles. The reasons are that the change increases the range of speeds over which full power is applied, and also extends the application of power from a limit of 15 mph up to around 20 mph.
.

 

[JamesC]

In gentle rolling countryside, I am getting about 30 miles on the 50% middle setting with a 19T sprocket. My best was 38 miles when still using the original 23T.

James

 

[tillson]

Thank you for the replies. I see that lowering to a 16 tooth sprocket has quite an impact on range. I think I will lower it, but not to 16. My trip to work and back is 18 miles, so I'll probably go for 18 or 20, if they make such a thing.

I have just checked the tensioner and it seems to be free. It certainly does not stick and moves smoothly when I apply presure to it.

Do I need to adjust the cable? If so, how do I do that?

Thanks again.

Tom

 

[flecc]

With sprockets you can have any number of teeth from 16 to 24 Tom, and I think 19 is a good compromise for the Pro Connect to retain good range.

It's normal for the new gear cable to stretch slightly initially, and it probably only needs the slightest tweak. Where the cable outer leaves the handlebar changer there's a screw out socket that the outer sits in. Just screw it out a touch and test at that. It's easily tweaked on the road to get it just right.
.

 

[tillson]

Thanks Flecc, I'll give it a go tomorrow morning. I think the spurious changes of gear ratio point towards the cable needing a very slight tweak.

Kind Regards

Tom

 

[JamesC]

ProConnect - Shimano Alfine RapidFire & Nexus 8 hub

Thank you for the replies. I see that lowering to a 16 tooth sprocket has quite an impact on range. I think I will lower it, but not to 16. My trip to work and back is 18 miles, so I'll probably go for 18 or 20, if they make such a thing.

I have just checked the tensioner and it seems to be free. It certainly does not stick and moves smoothly when I apply presure to it.

Do I need to adjust the cable? If so, how do I do that?

Thanks again.

Tom

For ProConnect users, here is a link to the Shimano Technical Service Instruction leaflet that covers the gear arrangement on the ProConnect.

Specifically, the Alfine SL-S500 RapidFire lever shifter which is connected into the Nexus 8 hub (via the Cassette Joint CJ-8S20).

James

 

[tillson]

Thanks for the tips / info. I must admit that I had not ridden a hub gear bike for many years and my gear changing technique probably wasn't quite right. I haven't made any adjustments, just followed Scotts advice and things are much better, but I still do very occaisionally get the clunk and judder.

Whilst having a poke around the bike, checking various bolts for tightness etc, I have noticed that the front chain sprocket has a bit of float in it. If I take hold of it, I can move it a few mm with my fingers. Is this normal? I have never noticed it before on any other bike I have owned.

Regards

Tom

 

[flecc]

If you mean the chainwheel Tom, that's normal on this unit. It's mounted on splines and held in place by a circlip, unlike any normal bike component. This photo from one of my websites shows the similar chainwheel on the previous unit, with the action of removing the circlip shown, and you'll see the splines on which the chainwheel can rock slightly:

 

[tillson]

Thank you Flecc. I did mean the chain wheel, exactly as shown in your photograph.
Kind Regards
Tom

 

[tillson]

I'm sure it has been asked a million times before, but can anyone point me to a link providing information / help with changing the rear sprocket on the Pro Connect? I have tried the search tool, but no luck.

I am going to try a 19 tooth sprocket.

Thank you.

Tom

 

[john c]

pro connect

just a word to put your mind at rest re the sprocket cog.If you fit a 19 t00th you will find it is just right for the job ( I know cos I asked Flecc and I fitted it to my Pro and it is superb)

 

[tillson]

Thanks John C. Is it an easy job to do yourself? Any special tools require? Do the gears need setting up again, or is it just a case of unclipping the cable as described elsewhere on the forum?

Any pointers / tips most welcome.

Kind Regards

Tom

 

[flecc]

Tom, have a look at the link below to a thread with advice from Aldby and myself on the sprocket change for the Nexus 7. The job is similar for the 8 speed:

Sprocket change

The next link below is to the technical document for the Nexus 8 for the cable adjustment afterwards:

Nexus 8 PDF
.

 

[Conal]

Metal chicken's head in you picture

Flecc

Why is there a metal chicken's head in the top left of your picture? Have you started "Heath Robinson" like constructions out of old ebike parts?

Conal

 

[tillson]

Sorry to be a pain Flecc, but do I need a special tool to remove the sprocket? I would like to get everything together before undertaking the job.

Thanks
Tom

 

[JamesC]

ProConnect chain

Thanks John C. Is it an easy job to do yourself? Any special tools require? Do the gears need setting up again, or is it just a case of unclipping the cable as described elsewhere on the forum?

Any pointers / tips most welcome.

Kind Regards

Tom

Hi Tom
I will do some notes on fitting the 19 T sprocket to the ProConnect.

Only special tool required is a chain cutter for shortening the chain.

You must decide on the number of links to remove and how to rejoin the chain.

The chainguard is simple to remove with the one bolt near the back wheel - the front end just unclips.

I removed only 1 link and added some further tenison by pushing the wheel to the very back of the dropout slot, and the tension seems fine (100 miles with no problem)

Removing 2 links is probably more correct (sprocket teeth reduced from 23 to 19 = reduction of 4 teeth / chain wraps round half the sprocket so need to lose 2 links), with wheel half way back in dropout. This allows sensible adjustment as and when the chain needs tensioning later on.

Certainly 2 links must come out for an 18T sprocket.

If you want a spare, chain length is always a problem on an ebike - standard length that is sold is 114 links and the bike needs about 120 (I forgot to count the standard number).

The chain is 1/2" x 1/8" which is slightly wider than derailleur type chain and normally joined with a connecting link rather than a "bullet" pin.

The 50cycles guys use Sachs PC1 chain and cliptype joining link - this example at SJS is black - not sure where to get silver.

Suggest you get a couple of joiners in case tension isn't quite right. Note that the spring clip must travel with the rounded end leading through the chain circuit.

The spring loaded jockey wheel on the panasonic drive has more clearance on one side of the wheel than the other - put the joiner in from the side with narrow clearance, giving you clearance for the spring clip on the wide side.

More to follow.

James

 

[flecc]

Flecc

Why is there a metal chicken's head in the top left of your picture? Have you started "Heath Robinson" like constructions out of old ebike parts?

Conal

. Hi Conal

It's actually the black plastic base plate and connectors for the battery on these units which mounts remotely, but it's sat behind the top motor mounting, the stiff cables pushing it into that position.
.

 

[Tiberius]

Flecc

Why is there a metal chicken's head in the top left of your picture? Have you started "Heath Robinson" like constructions out of old ebike parts?

Conal

He will deny it of course, but its his voodoo symbol. You don't think these things really run on electricity, do you?

Nick