Pro-Connect questions

baboon

Pedelecer
May 16, 2008
38
0
Hi All,

As another enthusiastic Pro-Connect owner I have a couple of questions for you experts;

1) These woods valves; can I pump them up with a standard presta pump (like cars have)? Or do I need a Woods-Presta adaptor?

2) How do I change the rear sprocket? Is it true that 16t is the minimum sprocket size that's usable on the Nexus 8-gear hub? Does anyone know the standard size for the Pro-Connect (to save me going out to count the teeth!) How do I disconnect the hub gear cable? Is it easy?

I cycled 10 miles this morning in about 45 minutes, all of it in the highest (or is it lowest?) gear, so I really need to change that sprocket!

Peter
 
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prState

Pedelecer
Jun 14, 2007
244
0
Las Vegas, Nevada
If the pro-connect comes with a 22 rear sprocket, 16 is a pretty good drop. I don't know if I'd go lower than that.

I am in mostly flat terrain and my Lafree works pretty well with a rear 18. However, there are really are some days where you're pedaling uphill against the wind, and finally you need the lowest gear. Conditions like that make you feel you're already going 20mph when you just barely get going.

Rear sprockets aren't really expensive though, so hey, it's not like it's a big investment either way.
 

ibby

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 11, 2008
6
0
Hello

Have a look at the valves thread for the woods prob. Went to get my adapter and the bike shop also said change over to Schrader valves asap. May regret it but going to stick with what I've got for time being, but got adapter.

However do think it may be helpful if 50cycles changed to a more customer friendly inner tube/valve.

Ibby
 

baboon

Pedelecer
May 16, 2008
38
0
If the pro-connect comes with a 22 rear sprocket, 16 is a pretty good drop. I don't know if I'd go lower than that.
I'll have to check what sprocket it has on as standard; I'm not sure.

I am in mostly flat terrain and my Lafree works pretty well with a rear 18. However, there are really are some days where you're pedaling uphill against the wind, and finally you need the lowest gear. Conditions like that make you feel you're already going 20mph when you just barely get going.
My daily ride is fairly flat. I can't imagine ever having to use the lowest gear; I did try it this morning and my legs were flying round as I sped forwards at approximately 2mph...slight exaggeration maybe but you see what I mean.

Rear sprockets aren't really expensive though, so hey, it's not like it's a big investment either way.
This is true, thought it depends how difficult it is to change the sprocket. Any tips on that?

Peter
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,830
30,392
This is true, thought it depends how difficult it is to change the sprocket. Any tips on that?

Peter
Start at this point in the thread link below and you'll find posts from myself and Aldby giving the information you need Peter. The sprocket is held in place by a circlip:

Sprocket change

N.B. The Pro Connect is similar to the Agattu.
.
 

burncycle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 13, 2008
639
0
Sheffield
I'd change the woods valves if you can cus they are nothing but trouble and expense to get things to fit them.
Buy some new tubes and change them.
 

rock_hopper

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 21, 2007
17
0
Baboon, I thought I counted 23 teeth on my original sprocket, have changed down to a 16 teeth sprocket, now feel that I am able to put in the peddle effort I want, have seen a slight range reduction but nothing to impact on my daily commute distance. Went straight to 16 as most of my journey is flat with just one long uphill stretch that didn't see me going below 5.

I followed the instructions provided in the sprocket thread and a PDF download from the Shimano site ref 8sp hub.

One tip - I turned the bike upside down to remove the wheel etc, sitting on the floor struggled to get the bits back together - especially the gear cradle. Moving to stand up over the back wheel it all made sense and fitted easily as the diagrams are written from that perspective - but maybe that was just me being a woman !!

The red/yellow dots setup certainly makes it very user friendly with regards lining everything up.
 

baboon

Pedelecer
May 16, 2008
38
0
Thanks all. Very helpful; I'll find a sprocket and have a go. Can anyone point me to a shop which sells the sprocket I need? Are they standard fitting?

I'll keep the woods valves for now until I get a puncture and then change them.

Rock-hopper --- what sort of difference did your sprocket change make to the maximum assisted speed? Does the bike now help you up to a higher speed?

Peter
 

JamesC

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 1, 2007
435
5
Peterborough, UK
2)Does anyone know the standard size for the Pro-Connect (to save me going out to count the teeth!)
Hi baboon

Unlike the Agattu, the ProConnect comes with 23 teeth rather than the 22 (or at least mine has).

Compared to the Nexus 7, the Nexus 8 hub gear is a little lower in first and a little higher in eighth. I guess that on account of being higher in eighth, they decided to use an extra tooth on the sprocket to stay within 25 kph.

When considering a change, the obvious choices seem to be 19, 18 or 16 (all of which I think are available from Petra Cycles Petra Cycles

Given that first gear is a little lower than the Nexus 7 hub, 18 or 16 might be good choices.

Even though I live in a fairly flat area, I like to be able to tour into hillier parts, so I will be trying 18 to start with.

The Nexus 8 Service Manual on Sheldon Brown's site includes a comparison of the ratios in the Nexus 7 and Nexus 8 hubs
Shimano Nexus 8-speed Bicycle Hub Service Manual-Page 05

James

PS I see Rock Hopper agrees with 23 teeth on his ProConnect
 
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ITSPETEINIT

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 11, 2006
492
0
Mere, Wilts
Hello

Have a look at the valves thread for the woods prob. Went to get my adapter and the bike shop also said change over to Schrader valves asap. May regret it but going to stick with what I've got for time being, but got adapter.

However do think it may be helpful if 50cycles changed to a more customer friendly inner tube/valve.

Ibby
The guy in the shop was dead right - where did these 'dinosaur' valves come from?

The Wood’s Valve.

I have been completely puzzled by the posting and counter posting on the subject of the “Wood’s Valve” (aka “Dunlop Valve”, etc). So much so that I believed it was something I had not come across before. I now find (courtesy of Sheldon Brown and the internet) that it was commonplace in earlier cycling history and was in use right up until the 1940’s and maybe even longer on Cheaper Bicycles (such as the Kalkhoff - ).
The air in a tube capped with a Wood’s Valve is retained by means of a small rubber tube forced over a ‘spike’ which has been bored halfway (or so) down its length and the bore exiting at the side of the ‘spike’. Thus, the pressure on the ‘small rubber tube’ by the air in the tube (tyre) prevents the escape of air from the tube through the valve (I won’t go into the other physical phenomena that helps retain the air). But this is theory: Wood’s Valves are notoriously less effective (in my experience) at keeping air in the tube at the correct pressure than say Schraeder or Presta. On my touring cycle, bespoke made in 1945, I opted for High Pressure Tyres and Tubes (Clinchers they were called) capable of withstanding 80 psi (or more) which makes for less rolling resistance and nice Presta Valves.
Now why anyone would wish to continue with or choose to adapt “Wood’s Valves” to accept a modern on-bike cycle pump puzzles me. Inner tubes are cheap enough and can be purchased with Presta or Schraeder – indeed procuring a tube fitted with a Wood’s Valve would be the hard way to go,
Then I had another thought. Why did Kalkhoff choose to have Wood’s Valves on their tubes? Were those tubes being sold off cheap by some museum of a manufacturer who had found a cache of them at the back of his storeroom when they took over a factory and adapted it to the production of Kalkhoffs?
If someone wishes to persist with Wood’s Valves I can advise that they are inflated by using a “screw in (to the pump) - screw on (to the valve)” connector which has the added advantage of flexibility. These pumps are quite capable of inflating a tyre & tube to 80+ psi BUT the flexible connector must be capable of withstanding the pressure to be generated otherwise they will simply “POP”.

Schraeder Valves may well fit the hole in the rim designed for the Wood's Valve - a little enlarging may be required.
Presta Valves are far too small to fill the hole.
Virtually no gap should be allowed between the valve and the hole: the tube will find its way there and "BANG"!!!
Peter
 
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,830
30,392
Schraeder valves fit the Woods/Dunlop valve hole ok Peter.

When I started in the trade in 1950, Woods valves were universal and I can't remember ever coming across anything else at that time. They are simple and easily repaired and still popular amongst many on the Continent, certainly nothing to do with a premium brand like Kalkhoff using old stock etc.

Unfortunately the rubber sleeves are quite stiff at first and resist the air flow, so seem impossible to pump through, particularly if cold. When they were popular in Britain many years ago replacement valve rubbers could be bought in very supple translucent rubber types which were extremely easy to pump with, and it's possible those might still be obtainable, maybe not in Britain though.

Woods valves are easiest to use with a flexible connector from pump to valve as all type pumps were years ago, and the easiest way to inflate with them now is with a decent stirrup pump (track pump).
.
 

oldosc

Pedelecer
May 12, 2008
207
10
Hello

Have a look at the valves thread for the woods prob. Went to get my adapter and the bike shop also said change over to Schrader valves asap. May regret it but going to stick with what I've got for time being, but got adapter.

However do think it may be helpful if 50cycles changed to a more customer friendly inner tube/valve.

Ibby
Well to quote the philosopher Mandy Rice Davies "well he would say that would'nt he"