Problem with a dead TSDZ2/VLCD5

[RichardC]

The system has been working perfectly for 6 months until... I was out on a ride and had left the cable to charge a mobile plugged in. Unfortunately, when I stopped the other end shorted out on the frame with a dramatic spark, and the whole system went dead. I thought immediately that a fuse must have blown, so I took the battery (photo 1) apart only to find ... no fuse. But I wondered, is there a fuse inside the base (photo 2)? I don't want to go to the business of taking the base off and trying to dismantle it if there's no fuse there anyway: does anyone know if there's likely to be a dude there?

And if not, and there isn't a fuse anywhere, is the next step to order a new VLCD5 controller? I'd much appreciate any advice here...

 

[guerney]

When a spark flashed between positive and negative cables on my battery, while it was connected to my Bafang BBS01B controller (I had inadvertently cut through cable insulation with a box cutter, while attempting to solder a useless piece of ebay tat to it [my cable stripping and soldering skills have much improved since that incident]), this killed the controller. I don't know anything about how to test a TSDZ2 controller for signs of life, but this may be wise to seek information about, before throwing money at a new VLCD5 display.

One of our TSDZ2 experts may advise.

 

[matthewslack]

My 48V battery does indeed have a fuse in the battery mount cavity. My 36 V ones do not.

 

[Woosh]

The OP runs his kit at 52V

 

[RichardC]

I've now done what I should have done in the first place, and that's to test with a voltmeter whether there's any output from the cable running from the base (with the battery in place, obvs). And the answer is that there is indeed output (ca. 53 volts) from the cable, so it answers my first question of whether there's a fuse in the base: clearly there isn't, or if there is one, it's not blown.

So that means I have to move on to the second question: is the controller hopelessly damaged ? Or, putting it another way, is there any other part of the system (the motor itself, for example?) that is likely to have been affected? I'm guessing that it's most likely to be the controller, but before I shell out for a new one at around £45, I'd like to have a stronger sense if this is what's wrong.

 

[Woosh]

Where was the spark? Post some pictures

 

[RichardC]

Where was the spark? Post some pictures

I can't post a picture of the spark, but what happened was that the mobile end of the charging cable, which was hanging loose - the other end was plugged into the controller - touched on some bare metal, causing a short circuit.


Here's a pic, not of the original cable, which I think I threw away, to illustrate: the exposed metal end of the USB-C plug on the end of the cable touched some metal, hence the spark.

 

[cyclebuddy]

So the battery remains alive, but the 5v USB supply is now dead? Is your 5v supply being fed from the bikes controller (EDIT - you said it is), or are you using a buck converter directly off the battery? IMHO whichever it is is likely to be toast.

 

[RichardC]

So the battery remains alive, but the 5v USB supply is now dead? Is your 5v supply being fed from the bikes controller (EDIT - you said it is), or are you using a buck converter directly off the battery? IMHO whichever it is is likely to be toast.

That's a good point, I hadn't thought to check the 5V supply. And now I have, I can confirm that it (the supply) is dead - so, presumably, that shows the whole controller is caput?

 

[Woosh]

the 5V is created by the controller. If the controller is not switched on, you don't have 5V.
The spark is between your USB lead and the frame is not normal.
As you have nothing to lose, I would suggest you test for shortcircuits between ground, 5V, 52V, TX, RX on the LCD connector. If any of them is shorted, then the LCD is fried.
Do the same on the controller side connector. If any of them is shorted, then the controller is fried.
Do the same on the 6/8 pin lead. If any of them is shorted, then the lead is fried.
If no shortcircuit is found, you would need a new set of electronics LCD, lead and controller to swap out one by one.