Q128C kit on MTB

[Twan]

After spending evenings and evenings of reading the internet I just ordered a Q128C, 201rpm, 36V and the 09bottle 48V, 11.4Ah with 20A sinewave controller kit from BMS battery. I hope this will give me the best balance of hillclimbing torque hills and flatland speed.
I initially selected the motor with rim but that added $70,- to the transport bill, and I have a perfectly good rim on the donorbike. When ready I can add lacing to my skillset
Opted for LCD5 instead of LCD 3 as it is less bulky and one less wire. Less wire = good.

Donor bike is my old skool MTB, custom made in 1987, with Deore XT group and Shimano cantilever brakes. No suspension, not even forksuspension. Good thing about a regular fork is that it is much lighter. The bike is made from Reynolds tubing with proper, forced pads (the frame things the axle is mounted in), butwelded, Mavic rims and other quality items. Strong as a tank. I think a perfect base for a pedelec.

Now the waiting for stuff to arrive has started......

 

[Nealh]

Sounds good should make for a neat build, don't forget obligatory build pics. As you say best of both worlds 36v 201rpm should give about 19/21 mph top whack, over volting 36v will give 260/270 rpm motor speed and deliver good torque for hill climbing.

 

[trex]

I've tried this same kit but with the LCD3, got to about 24mph on a cheap MTB style bike with suspension fork. Very quiet motor with excellent hill climbing ability.

 

[Twan]

aren't you guys metric yet?
so about 39 kph then

 

[Nealh]

aren't you guys metric yet?
so about 39 kph then

Nothing wrong with Imperial .

 

[Twan]

This evening I took apart the mtb. Needs new shift and brake cables, chain, tires, brakepads. Frame goes to the powder coater tomorrow.
I just realized that my vintage 6 speed Deore XT cassette is fixated with thread insite the smallest sprocket. The motor cassette hub does not have this thread. Well, I look for a solution when the motor arrives.

 

[Twan]

here it is.

Actually pretty straightforward job.
Only work other than just bolting on:
spoking rear wheel.
Shortening cables to fit frame.
Making a bracket for the LCD
Creating enough space for the pas sensor (which still doesn't work)
frame is newly powder coated
all new cables, brakepads, chain.
big tires barely leave romo for the brakes

 

[Nealh]

White wall tyres complement the bike quite nicely, how is the performance from the Q128c and have you done any climbing yet.

 

[Twan]

tried it yesterday on flat terrain with one bridge ramp.
On flat it cruises nicely at 35km/h. top was 37.9 (GPS)
On the ramp there was no noticeable reduction in speed. On the GPS track it shows before the ramp 36 kph, on the ramp 34.7 kph.
As the pas sensor does not work I used the throttle. Hard to do if one wants to peddle along and keep a more or less constant human effort.
At 37 kph I can harly keep up peddling with my 48/14 sprockets.

All in all, speed and climbing power exceeds my goal.
now if only the pas sensor would work.....

btw: bike (with full battery ) weights 19kg

 

[motomech]

The way I trouble shoot the PAS is like this;
Remove the sensor from the bracket and w/the bike upside down, hold it close to the rotor while pedaling by hand. Once I have determined the correct direction and position, I remount it to the bracket and bend the bracket by hand into a curved form that lays on the BB tube. Then I epoxy it there w/ a metal epoxy.

 

[Nealh]

Thought I would ad to this thread rather then start another one.
Just finished my ( Akiema) Q128c build no pics yet, picked up a new HT Mosso black and white frame off fleabay for £99 and added the components from my Mtrax 5.0 cf frame which I didn't like.
Bmsb for the 36v 201rpm hub which I laced and trued up my self and also the 20a 36v 09 SW controller kit, very nice plug and play. I kept all 3 front rings and made a new pas bracket from ali so that it gave me the extra offset I needed under the bb, turned the sensor 180 degrees so that it enters from the rear for correct rotation other wise it works by back peddling. The pas ring I used was a 12mag 2 part easy fit ring which I driiled out the center to fit over my bb outer bearing, the ring it self uses the magnets to stay in place against the small chain ring which has steel fixing bolts. Controller and excess wiring sits neatly in a under saddle bag, 9 pin motor/hall connection exits from the left so nicely runs up the inside of the frame and is partly obscured as the rear hdb brake lines runs there as well. All wiring is kept in place by double sided 10mm velcro.
I use HK lipo's so use an Additive crossbar pannier bag for them which means the bike carries the extra battery range instead of me in a rucksack. Running at 10s gives very good acceleration and the power from the hub is very good, cruising speed on the road 21 - 26mph on knobbly tyres at 35psi so would be a bit faster on a slicker road bike set up with higher gearing. once I'm set for off road with 25 -28psi so I expect to be slower. The lcd is set for current control and has 5 assist levels the extra power is noticeable as you go up the assists and although not a speed controller there is a little speed increase with each assist, I saw 21.8 mph in 1 and 26mph in 5 on the flat, if I had stronger legs and peddled like a nutter 30+ would be doable. I didn't find any big hills but a couple of inclines I rode up the bike climbed nicely at 12.5 mph without me having to go mad in level 3. The assist levels ramp up the amps as you raise each level so approx about 2.5- 3a on each level riding on the flat but once you are cruising quickly the amps back right off to about 1.8 -2.4a.
This is my winter offroad /mud bike so two new mud tyres to go and it is ready and am hoping for some good riding ahead. I briefly tried unassisted riding and found the sytem to be good and didn't find it to like be riding through treacle.

 

[LeighPing]

aren't you guys metric yet?
so about 39 kph then

Just 'Phill' so far.

Good luck with the build.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

We just ordered a front Q128 and the 20A controller for this bike. It will be the 36v 328 rpm version, which we will run at 52v, so it should spin to 459 rpm or 34 mph (57 km/h). The bike will be two-wheel drive for now and will already cruise at 30 mph, so the extra motor should give it much better acceleration. There's still room for a motor on the back wheel.

 

[soundwave]

id not trust a carbon frame esp with all that waight on it not even jumping off a curb on it let alone off road down hill.

 

[Nealh]

We just ordered a front Q128 and the 20A controller for this bike. It will be the 36v 328 rpm version, which we will run at 52v, so it should spin to 459 rpm or 34 mph (57 km/h). The bike will be two-wheel drive for now and will already cruise at 30 mph, so the extra motor should give it much better acceleration. There's still room for a motor on the back wheel.

P.s Twan,
Hope you don't mind the resurrection of your thread as I feel it is better for all related builds with the Q128c to be better off in one thread rather then searching through several.

Sure is a distinctive bike.
I am thinking of the possibility of running 12s ( 49.8v) on the road sections to the downs a nice bit of speed to get me there and my Q should produce 260 ish rpm. The caps inside the controller are only rated 50v so concerned that they could blow but did read on another post that you say it depends on the mosfet v rating.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The caps inside the controller are only rated 50v so concerned that they could blow but did read on another post that you say it depends on the mosfet v rating.

Lots of people have used 36v controllers at 12S. I've never heard of anybody blowing anything.

The only problem you can get is with the dual voltage ones that automatically sense the voltage and set LVC and battery display accordingly. They can't figure out if a 12S battery is a 36v one or 48v. If you have one of those, it's best to fully charge your battery before connecting it to the controller to force it into 48v mode.

 

[Mattjenkins1990]

Has anyone laced the 36V 128C 328RPM into the 48V 11.6 battery (09) with 20A sine wave.

The 201 (260 OV) sounds good for approx 24mph. How much is this likely to affect torque using the 328 36V with a 48V battery ? Running the 328 36V will give a RPM around 430 RPM.

Is this a pointless exercise and would be 201 36V make more sense.

Any feedback and experience is much welcomed.

Many Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It's not a big motor. Unless you know what you're doing (in which case you wouldn't be asking) or have a special application, you shouldn't go above 328 rpm in a big wheel, which means 36v 201 or 260 rpm at 48v.

I forgot to mention that the front Q128 on the bike mentioned above is for rim brakes only. The motor has arrived and is presently being modified to take a disc.

 

[roscop]

Thanks to the good advices of D8veh I also mounted on my old Panasonic racing bike a Q128C 36V, RPM : 201
running on a 48V11.6Ah Bottle-09 Panasonic battery (20A integrated controller).

The bike is faster than expected and runs on flat street of Paris at 43kph without pedaling! on the stiffest hills of the french capital it still runs at 25-30kph with a very light pedaling.
I changed my tire to 700c Marathon plus and reinforced rims.
Range is about 50km on the highest level of assist 5, full speed, with some elevation.

I'm very happy with the bike, no one can follow me! But this kind of speed is not for everyone, maybe if I had to do it again I would buy the Q128C 48V, RPM : 201 version.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Great bike. Thanks for sharing. Did it previously have drop handlebars?