Saving a Giant Lafree

SaxMan

Pedelecer
Jun 27, 2013
35
5
Except for the motor covers, which were very rusty, the bike is now complete. I'm not sure why Giant made these parts from metal when plastic literally abounds on this bike. Even without the covers, the bike is ready to begin test rides.

On a quick spin up and down the driveway, I found the bikes pedelec character is still very present: This bike needs you to pedal to get it going, with the motor providing additional assist. At this point, it doesn't seem capable of running solely on its motor (well, not very fast or very well), but the test rides will definitely reveal more of its character.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,763
30,349
It always had the reputation of being on the slow side so I'm not surprised at what you've found at present. Most e-bikes were like this in the 1990s and this design dates from 1999.
 

SaxMan

Pedelecer
Jun 27, 2013
35
5
I took the bike out for its first genuine test ride this evening. There are a few adjustments that I'm going to need to make, but overall a successful ride. The bike is definitely not as fast as I had thought it was going to be. In fact, over the same course that I rode tonight, I am faster on a conventional bike.

However, the reason for this bike's restoration is not to go fast, but for patrol and observation. It has very stable and predictable ride qualities with a nice upright riding position. Its lack of speed means it can operate alongside patrollers on regular bikes. In short, it is the perfect platform for volunteer patrol role.

I found the bike was capable of about 15 mph on level ground. The best I could get on a downhill was about 24 mph. It is a slug on the uphills. It will climb without pedal assist, although very, very slowly. It definitely prefers to be pedal assisted than running on motor alone.
 

103Alex1

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 29, 2012
2,228
67
Nice restoration. Can I ask ... what did you use to remove the corrosion on the seat tube ? There's a 10-year old bike in the garage which was only ever ridden for less than a mile, and the only thing wrong with it is some corrosion on the handlebars which looks a bit like the stuff on your photo.

I'm not after spending any money on it before it gets sold off (only a small womens' mountain bike which no-one here is going to ride) but would be nice to get it looking in mint condition.
 

SaxMan

Pedelecer
Jun 27, 2013
35
5
Nice restoration. Can I ask ... what did you use to remove the corrosion on the seat tube ? There's a 10-year old bike in the garage which was only ever ridden for less than a mile, and the only thing wrong with it is some corrosion on the handlebars which looks a bit like the stuff on your photo.

I'm not after spending any money on it before it gets sold off (only a small womens' mountain bike which no-one here is going to ride) but would be nice to get it looking in mint condition.
I use 3M sanding blocks. I try to get away with the least aggressive grit that will still take off the rust. On the seat tube, I was using 600 - 1000 grit. On the handlebars and stem, I had to use more aggressive 120 / 240 grit. The motor covers, which are the last thing that need to be restored, I've actually had to go to 60 grit. Once you do get the rust off, you then go over the surface with progressively finer grit to smooth out the scratches. I usually stop at 1200 grit. For tough to reach areas, I will use a Dremel with grinding stone at the lowest rpms.
 

jackhandy

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 20, 2012
1,820
323
the Cornish Alps
The old guys, in my motorcycling days in the 1970's, used a milk bottle top & spit to shift light surface rust from chrome:

I guess aluwilliam foil should do it.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,763
30,349
For me various grades of wire wool work for light rust removal, and if it's light enough rust, the wire wool pads marketed as Brillo which incorporate soap are excellent with a little water to produce a good finish.
 

SaxMan

Pedelecer
Jun 27, 2013
35
5
Second test ride this evening went much smoother. I put the bike up some of the steepest hills in our area (I live in a fairly undulating section of piedmont). The bike made it up the hills with pedal input, as a pedelec should. The pace was fairly slow on the hills, but the amount of human effort to help the motor was manageable. I didn't even work up a sweat. About the only thing left to test is the battery life.
 

SaxMan

Pedelecer
Jun 27, 2013
35
5
Test rides are continuing and the bike continues to perform satisfactorily. I'm watching the battery voltage. Even though I'm only at 23 volts (from a start of 25.6) the bike does feel slower (and it's already a bit of a lead sled). How far down could I / should I let the batteries go in terms of voltage before a recharge?
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,763
30,349
Lead acid batteries like "cycling", i.e. charging frequently, but that said don't worry about using all the available current. Due to a phenomenon called the Peukert effect, the batteries can only supply a proportion of their content at the high discharge rates of e-bikes. So you can run until it cuts out, but the battery will still have up to half it's content that could be used more gently such as in lighting a couple of bulbs for example. Therefore running to cut-off won't harm it.
 

SaxMan

Pedelecer
Jun 27, 2013
35
5
After a long, cold and unusually snowy winter in the Washington, D.C. area, the LaFree finally saw its service debut with the Maryland-National Capital Park Police this past weekend during Volunteer Bike Training. It's proven to be a steady and predictable mount, if a bit sluggish due to its heft.

Here it is being put through its paces in the cone courses:

IMG_20140323_113133_287a
by onyxsax, on Flickr


IMG_20140323_113250_927a
by onyxsax, on Flickr

Next step is actual field work. It will be used for a large community detail at one of our regional parks in two weeks.