simple tandem conversion

[BG bicycle]

The power issue cannot one of the LCD displays be installed and then limit the top speed. Wasn’t 250 watts chosen as the power limit based on its calculated top speed?

 

[sjpt]

The power issue is technically complicated and confusing, with considerable extra confusion added by somewhat spurious labelling of motor power and legal requirements.

250 watts could drive a bicycle much faster than 15mph on the flat; and yes the LCD display combined with the controller introduce the 15mph limit on many kits.

A motor rated 250 watts can generate much more power then that for short bursts.

Some nominally 250 watt motors are effectively more powerful than others rated much higher; but the road legal position is based on the nominal rating being 250 watts or less. Looking at the three main options from Woosh

• XF07, nominally 250w, least powerful
• BPM. nominally 350w, more powerful, but not technically road legal (as pointed out in their web pages)
• SWX02, nominally 250w but more powerful than the BPM. Sadly not available at the moment in a form to suit our tandem.

 

[sjpt]

I was slightly dreading installation of the (hydraulic) brake sensors, needed because of our combined brake levers. They sounded maybe tricky to set up. I did a temporary job with electrical tape to hold the magnets to the levers, in case it needed adjustment that would be very awkward after aralditing.

Sensors themselves held on to brake body with double sided sticky provided. I'm not too worried if that comes free, at least they won't get lost as the cables will hold them.

Complete in just 5 mins and working without needing any extra adjustment.

 

[anotherkiwi]

The power issue cannot one of the LCD displays be installed and then limit the top speed. Wasn’t 250 watts chosen as the power limit based on its calculated top speed?

Watts don't limit speed, air resistance does. A vélomobile without a motor can do over 60 km/h on the flat with no wind and the rider providing around 250 W. Most 250 W hub motors reach about 32-33 km/h @ 36v and mid-drives can quite easily reach 45 km/h with a 36v battery.

As @flecc has written elsewhere the EU standard was derived from the Japanese standard. Look at the average size and weight of the Japanese compared to Europeans. A 350 W nominative motor would be more adapted to moving most Europeans today.

Hopefully we will move towards different power ratings for different needs: cargo bikes are becoming more popular for example. And we are finally seeing motors coming to market with less nominative power for light weight bikes - you need less copper winding to make less power = lighter motor.

 

[anotherkiwi]

I was slightly dreading installation of the (hydraulic) brake sensors, needed because of our combined brake levers. They sounded maybe tricky to set up. I did a temporary job with electrical tape to hold the magnets to the levers, in case it needed adjustment that would be very awkward after aralditing.

Sensors themselves held on to brake body with double sided sticky provided. I'm not too worried if that comes free, at least they won't get lost as the cables will hold them.

Complete in just 5 mins and working without needing any extra adjustment.

With a hub motor and no throttle you don't really need them. Maybe on a tandem it is easier to move the pedals while manoeuvring? In any case I have over 3600 trouble free km without. The first time your bike tries to run away on its own you learn to turn it off/down to 0 assist when you are not on it

 

[BG bicycle]

I was slightly dreading installation of the (hydraulic) brake sensors, needed because of our combined brake levers. They sounded maybe tricky to set up. I did a temporary job with electrical tape to hold the magnets to the levers, in case it needed adjustment that would be very awkward after aralditing.

Sensors themselves held on to brake body with double sided sticky provided. I'm not too worried if that comes free, at least they won't get lost as the cables will hold them.

Complete in just 5 mins and working without needing any extra adjustment.[/QUOTE]


Glad all went to plan. One of extras on my list to add to the folder is disc brakes. The metal bracket appears no longer manufactured.

Here in Bulgaria, what counts is that your Ebike cannot move from a stationary position without manual assistance. The SW900 LCD controller comes complete with a feature that allows the bicycle to be approximate speed 3-4kmh before any power is applied to the motor via throttle. Obvious top speed should also be limited this is also available via SW900.

 

[sjpt]

I want the brake sensors for when we are on the bike. Tony at Woosh strongly suggested they should be fitted and I agree.

In the short time before I installed them I already saw one (harmless) example where the sensors would have been helpful. Freewheeling downhill with sharpish corner at the bottom; need to do a 1/2 turn of the pedals so the inside pedals are up. Enough to give an unwanted boost of power just where I don't want it.

I'm sure we would learn to ride pretty safely without, but having them could be helpful even then if flustered.

 

[BG bicycle]

I want the brake sensors for when we are on the bike. Tony at Woosh strongly suggested they should be fitted and I agree.

In the short time before I installed them I already saw one (harmless) example where the sensors would have been helpful. Freewheeling downhill with sharpish corner at the bottom; need to do a 1/2 turn of the pedals so the inside pedals are up. Enough to give an unwanted boost of power just where I don't want it.

I'm sure we would learn to ride pretty safely without, but having them could be helpful even then if flustered.

Reason I avoid use PAS. First Ebike build 1000w motor the PAS then was on or off. In other words full power on. Almost sent me into a canal was a narrow turn under a bridge and the walkway reduced serverly in width. After that no more the cable promptly disconnected.