Surprising speed

[Streethawk]

Today i started my second week on my borrowed Cyclamatic. I've done a whole bunch of mods:

1. Swapped the forks for Rockshox Dart 2's.

2. Put decent full length V-brake pads in

3. Swapped the tyres to fast rolling Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.1" mountain bike tyres.

4. Swapped the useless standard mudguards for some SKS Chromoplastic ones

5. Due to the increased wheel diameter from the bigger tyres i've had to fit an adjustable (and much lighter) Raleigh kickstand.

6. Replaced the STEEL seatpost with an alloy one.

7. Replaced the huge saddle with a Brooks Flyer

8. Replaced the plastic pedals with alloy ones.

9. Fitted a Tortec rear rack for my panniers.

10. Swapped the adjustable stem for a much lighter fixed Bontrager one i had spare.

11. Fitted a wireless Cateye Velo cycle computer.

Much of this stuff i already had, and overall the bike is much nicer to ride now, more comfortable and seems to handle better. The forks made the biggest difference. Its also saved perhaps 1.5-2kg of weight.

My question really is on the speeds i'm seeing. The cycle computer is very accurate, to roadside radar signs and GPS. I'm seeing 16.5mph on throttle only, dropping to 15.5mph towards the end of the battery.

18mph with very light pedalling on the flat, assist continues to arroung 19.5mph, where it suddenly feels like hitting a wall.

Is this normal? Do all eBikes over-perform by so much? Bearing in mind this is only meant to be a 24v 250w hub system.

EDIT: I should point out i'm 6' and 16 stone, plus my panniers, so the weight saving is a couple of percent at best.

 

[flecc]

Is this normal? Do all eBikes over-perform by so much? Bearing in mind this is only meant to be a 24v 250w hub system.

I'm sure a lot can. I saw similar improvements after I converted my eZee Quando to the Q-bike, greatly increasing it's efficiency and rideability with numerous mods.
.

 

[alban]

Old thread I know - but which rack was it you fitted to the Cyclamatic?

I note that you fitted a rack. I understand that racks are a bit tricky on this ebike. Which model was it that actually fitted it? Could you remove the battery with it in place?
Thanks

 

[morphix]

That sounds pretty performance good for the Cyclamatic with its lower power and is encouraging for others looking for a cheap bike option with the Cyclamtic being a sub-£500 bike. The speed you're getting is about on par with my own bikes performance which is 36V 250W (even with my light bike and me being under 10 stone). You put a lot of work in, I bet that has really made a difference to the bike. I know that decent tyres are a good investment can have a speed performance benefit. I switched to Schwalbe Marathan Plus myself.

 

[Willin']

There's very little flat land where I live but there is one level bit of about 400 metres which approaches the village where I get my paper. There's a speed camera which a speed readout at the entrance to the village. My garmin GPS and the speed camera agree that I am cycling along at 17 mph on my completely unmodified Cyclamatic. This is consistent over several trips.

 

[Fordulike]

Yep, the Cyclamatic maintains on throttle around 16.5 Mph on the flat, with no head or tail wind.
With the shunt mod, although no faster, will pick up to this speed more readily

 

[kitchenman]

Yep, the Cyclamatic maintains on throttle around 16.5 Mph on the flat, with no head or tail wind.
With the shunt mod, although no faster, will pick up to this speed more readily

So,, have you got one as well? .. How many Cyclamatic owners are there? ...

 

[Fordulike]

There's probably a few Cyclamatic owners on this forum, including me.
Haven't done as many mods as Steethawk though.

1) Replaced the stock tyres with Scwalbe Marathon plus, but most people would do this with any bike. Pumped up to the tyres maximum of 70 PSi, rolling resistance is minimal, plus i've only had one puncture in around 1000 miles of riding. That was due to an extra angry looking thorn.

2) Replaced the front brake caliper and pads with a Shimano set, which eliminated the highly annoying brake squeal when pulling up to a stop.

3) The shunt mod (think i'm the only one to do this on a Cyclamatic so far). Increased pulling power up to bikes speed limiter and also helps with the hills.

 

[kitchenman]

There's probably a few Cyclamatic owners on this forum, including me.
Haven't done as many mods as Steethawk though.

1) Replaced the stock tyres with Scwalbe Marathon plus, but most people would do this with any bike. Pumped up to the tyres maximum of 70 PSi, rolling resistance is minimal, plus i've only had one puncture in around 1000 miles of riding. That was due to an extra angry looking thorn.

2) Replaced the front brake caliper and pads with a Shimano set, which eliminated the highly annoying brake squeal when pulling up to a stop.

3) The shunt mod (think i'm the only one to do this on a Cyclamatic so far). Increased pulling power up to bikes speed limiter and also helps with the hills.

Yes, I've also switched to MPs and they are great. I have a load more questions which I have PM'd you as part of my ongoing exercise to extract information from members by all means possible! ..

 

[alban]

Heh - interesting as it is, you guys swamped my original question regarding the rack! Has anyone found a rack that fits a Cyclamatic MTB and doesn't interfere with battery removal?
Thanks

 

[Fordulike]

Heh - interesting as it is, you guys swamped my original question regarding the rack! Has anyone found a rack that fits a Cyclamatic MTB and doesn't interfere with battery removal?
Thanks

Buy one of these:

Axis Seat Post Rear Carrier Bike Panier Rack RRP £18.99 | eBay UK

Then you can either gain access to the battery by quick releasing just the rack, or you can quick release the whole of the seat post and remove both at the same time.

 

[Willin']

I use a seat post carrier as well ( not needed that much) - probably the same one as in the link above. I usually charge my battery in situ anyway and I don't need to remove it for security (e.g. at work) either.

 

[flecc]

Heh - interesting as it is, you guys swamped my original question regarding the rack! Has anyone found a rack that fits a Cyclamatic MTB and doesn't interfere with battery removal?
Thanks

If you look on the SJS cycles website they have a huge range of carriers and fittings. One of them like this one linked to with long front arms can be locked down to the upper seat stay tubes for example, leaving the battery access unaffected. To mount the carrier points to the frame tubes, use one or two of the clamp kits they supply on pages 4, 5 and 6 of the carrier ranges like this one linked to which has strip clamps to go around the tubes and connect to eyelets for the carrier mount points.

 

[alban]

Great pointers regarding racks - thanks chaps.