Torq 2 Fault

[Cyclezee]

Following on from my Torq Tumble Thread last Sunday, I haven't been near a bike until today due to a lot of discomfort and shoulder pain.
After changing the throttle and re-alinging the rear wheel following my tumble on Sunday, everything seemed to be working OK.

This morning I decided to go for a ride, but noticed the lighting cable had snapped, so decided to repair this before taking a spin. With the lights fixed, I mounted the bike, set off and twisted the throttle, but no power. I tried several times, but no joy, the battery meter went from green to amber to red everytime I twisted the throttle and when I lifted the front wheel and tried it moved about 1/4 of a turn then stopped.

The controller led is flashing 6 times after turning the throttle indicating a low battery, but it is fully charged and showing 41.5v on my multimeter.
So far I have checked the throttle connection, battery meter/switch, power cables etc, but can't find a fault. Could it be Hall sensors or something else?
If anyone has any suggestions or ideas, I would be grateful.

J hn

 

[fishingpaul]

Following on from my Torq Tumble Thread last Sunday, I haven't been near a bike until today due to a lot of discomfort and shoulder pain.
After changing the throttle and re-alinging the rear wheel following my tumble on Sunday, everything seemed to be working OK.

This morning I decided to go for a ride, but noticed the lighting cable had snapped, so decided to repair this before taking a spin. With the lights fixed, I mounted the bike, set off and twisted the throttle, but no power. I tried several times, but no joy, the battery meter went from green to amber to red everytime I twisted the throttle and when I lifted the front wheel and tried it moved about 1/4 of a turn then stopped.

The controller led is flashing 6 times after turning the throttle indicating a low battery, but it is fully charged and showing 41.5v on my multimeter.
So far I have checked the throttle connection, battery meter/switch, power cables etc, but can't find a fault. Could it be Hall sensors or something else?
If anyone has any suggestions or ideas, I would be grateful.

J hn

could be the lighting connections try disconnecting them,i ran two wires from the rear light to the front light , and got a red light without touching the throttle,the four wires to the front light will not even light the bulb unless they are all connected correctly to the switch etc.

 

[Cyclezee]

Hi Paul,

After repairing the lighting cable, they were working fine. It was only after doing that I discovered the motor problem. I didn't believe the lighting circuit would make any difference, but I disconneced the lights anyway and the problem is just the same, power is geting to the motor, but it won't spin the wheel.

J hn

 

[flecc]

The battery meter behaviour indicates either the battery current output is slumping under load or there's a short when the throttle is opened.

I suspect it could a battery connection very poor, possibly internal at the base or in the fuse connection for example. The keyswitch resistance going high is another possibility which could cause this.
.

 

[Cyclezee]

The battery meter behaviour indicates either the battery current output is slumping under load or there's a short when the throttle is opened.

I suspect it could a battery connection very poor, possibly internal at the base or in the fuse connection for example. The keyswitch resistance going high is another possibility which could cause this.
.

Flecc,

The bike did go down with quite a bang onto tarmac when I was thrown off, but showed remarkably little physical damage. It worked perfectly after the accident and again after sorting it out last Sunday. It puzzles me why it has suddenly stopped after not being used for 6 days.

Therfore I am wondering if it has suffered some internal damage which did not manifest itself immeadiately.

Another symptom I have found is when turning the throttle approximately half way with the front wheel raised, i.e. no load, the battery meter lights flash from green to amber to red and back again repeadedly in very rapid succession, at the same time the wheel is trying to turn very slowly. Any ideas on that one?

Tomorrow I intend to throughly check the items you suggest, plus all wiring and connections, I am also wondering, could it be the controller is damaged?

J hn

 

[flecc]

That's difficult John, all sorts of possibilities, and the controller is one of them.

However, the battery might give rise to those symptoms if it's failing to deliver current on each controller pulse as the wheel slowly turns, causing the LED meter signal collapse at each attempt.

I wonder if there's any eZee bike owner near enough to you for you to try their battery momentarily and determine if that's the cause?
.

 

[Cyclezee]

That's difficult John, all sorts of possibilities, and the controller is one of them.

However, the battery might give rise to those symptoms if it's failing to deliver current on each controller pulse as the wheel slowly turns, causing the LED meter signal collapse at each attempt.

I wonder if there's any eZee bike owner near enough to you for you to try their battery momentarily and determine if that's the cause?
.

Flecc,

Unfortunately I don't know of anyone in my area that has an Ezee bike to rule in or rule out the battery, but if anyone does live local to Milton Keynes and is will to let me try their battery, please PM me.
My intention is to work through all the possibilities in sequence starting with the least expensive first.....when I can find the time.

J hn

 

[Cyclezee]

Problem Fixed, Virtually!

The problem was in the wiring bundle. I turned the bike over then clipped all the cable ties and pulled the bundle of cables out. I turned the bike right way up again, put the battery back, turned the key, twisted the throttle and away she went spinning like she should
Next I went for a quick test ride and it performed perfectly

I'm still not sure yet which wire or connector is the problem, but I will spend some time checking them all.

Phew,

J hn

 

[flecc]

Good to hear John, quite possibly the 5 Hall sensor wires from the motor involved.

I'd wondered about the impact damaging these at the hub entry being the cause, but that damage would have been obvious to you.
.

 

[Cyclezee]

Good to hear John, quite possibly the 5 Hall sensor wires from the motor involved.

I'd wondered about the impact damaging these at the hub entry being the cause, but that damage would have been obvious to you.
.

Thanks for your help Flecc.
The bike fell on the opposite to the hub entry, so the motor cables were not involved.
The fault was loose bullet connector on a wire leading to the battery contacts under the bike. It appeared not have been crimped properly and had somehow worked loose despite being covered by heatshrink and secured with cable ties. I replaced the bullet connector, crimped it then covered the cable with self amagamating tape.

I have just returned from a 9 mile ride and so far everything is OK.

J hn

 

[flecc]

That's great John. It seems a high proportion of eZee failures trace to this cable bundle at the rear of the bottom bracket, poor connections, damp etc. I've had damp and connection problems on both my Torq I and Quando II before remaking connections and sealing everything.
.