TSDZ2 project #2 (another long-tail): Yuba Mundo

Peddlin' Pedro

Pedelecer
Jan 22, 2017
144
65
West Sussex, UK
Finally got our Ute replacement running. Loved the Ute but it wasn't quite up to what we needed so swapped all the bits we upgraded (TSDZ2, wheels etc.) onto a new Yuba Mundo Lux/V5 framset.

Biggest challenge was mounting the Hairon battery as the factory bottle-bosses were low on the downtube and, unlike the Ute which was seven years out of warranty, fitting extra rivnuts would have binned the warranty on the brand new Yuba frame. Went with Grin Technologies' 'Double Bob', designed specifically for these style packs. It's a machined aluminium adapter plate that straddles the factory bottle bosses, stabilising the battery's own base-plate and allowing you to fit up to three hose clamps if needed. Works a treat. They also do the Triple Bob for other style packs

The chainline on this frame is near perfect with no drive-side spacers and a 9-spd 11-40t Sunrace cassette on a Hope Pro 4 hub.

Three key points/items of weirdness to note when choosing components:

- The rear-mech hanger is overhung by the seatstay to the extent that Shimano Shadow style mechs foul the seatstay, and thats assuming you can even rotate them far enough back to get the hanger tabs to engage. Spotted this as soon as I offered up an Alivio M4000. Fixed with a £5.00 hanger-extender from SJS; bit shorter than the 'Roadlink' types but works fine.

- The rear dropout plates are thinner than standard, meaning the 10mm axle stubs (at least on my Pro 4s) protrude by around 0.5-0.75mm, meaning you can't clamp the wheel properly. Didn't realise this until having setup the rear caliper it came out of alignment when I moved the bike. Easily fixed with washers but weird nonetheless.

- Being a full long-tail the stock TSDZ2 speed-sensor cable is too short for this frame. You either need to cut and extend it or order the 1m extension when ordering your kit.

Final jobs to do are making the top deck, running boards and wheel skirts and then fitting bags, alarm and frame-lock, and the Bread Basket (front rack) when Yuba finally send the bloody thing out. Will also spiral wrap all the cables and do general tidying up when I've worked out how to run a 48v lighting rig switched by the TSDZ2's 6v lighting circuit. Suggestions?

Overall a much easier instal than the Ute with a better chainline and loads more space in the main triangle for the battery. And it rides beautifully!

84BD0D1C-B3BF-4ACB-BA0F-A986F7B74CB2.jpeg
48F7ABC2-965D-4E18-820D-53C27A15DF52.jpeg

7D65BE27-2AC4-4F25-ACA3-C5F25BA9B055.jpeg
4A4EB19A-D425-4710-A8DB-AE45F0F0591B.jpegF6E20747-5A24-4BBB-A01B-BE258FDC5D83.jpeg070D1B36-7066-410D-981F-2B7915D84706.jpeg17444281-518D-443E-9DD1-E874963485E4.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Swizz

Peddlin' Pedro

Pedelecer
Jan 22, 2017
144
65
West Sussex, UK
The cable ties on the anti turn bracket do not last, unless you tightened the motor lock nut with a mallet and loctite
Thanks, the lock nut was tightened with a mallet. Cable ties would need changing after 2-3 months but I'm planning to swap in a stainless hose clamp as soon as I can get one long enough..
 

peter.c

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 24, 2018
1,611
491
thurrock essex
Use a 6v relay[needs a diode across the coil] to switch from the tsdz2 light output and then 48v lights powered from the battery will hide well in your controller box looks a very nice build
 
  • Like
Reactions: Peddlin' Pedro

Peddlin' Pedro

Pedelecer
Jan 22, 2017
144
65
West Sussex, UK
Use a 6v relay[needs a diode across the coil] to switch from the tsdz2 light output and then 48v lights powered from the battery will hide well in your controller box looks a very nice build
Thanks for that. Solid-state relay? Maybe I should sketch out a proposed circuit diagram and invite people to critique it... or possibly tear it apart?