TSDZ2B Bits and Pieces

[Az.]

I am just installing TSDZ2B and trying to find all bits that were flying around for few months. I just wonder if I really need all of them or if I can just happily skip some.

For sure I won't be installing rear bracket as there is no space for it and I don't think it is needed:




Real question is if I really need this bit:



Leaving it behind would make cable management much easier. In practice it would mean whole motor would be held in place only by this:



I have installed motor in a way it should not rotate even without additional supports.

 

[Woosh]

You don't need to install the anti torque bolt and bracket. The V shaped bracket has splines. Make sure that the splines are facing the bottom bracket shell.

 

[Az.]

The V shaped bracket has splines. Make sure that the splines are facing the bottom bracket shell.

V shaped bracket on second picture? The one I am planning not to install?

 

[Woosh]

You have to install the V shaped bracket in picture 2. The anti torque bracket in picture 1 is optional.

 

[Az.]

You have to install the V shaped bracket in picture 2.

Why? The only reason to install it IMO is to prevent motor rotation, ergo I don't need it in my case. Is there something I don't see?

 

[Woosh]

Best to download the manual from the tsdz2 webpage. The V shaped bracket is part of the bottom bracket assembly. You have to fit it.

 

[Bikes4two]

Why? The only reason to install it IMO is to prevent motor rotation, ergo I don't need it in my case. Is there something I don't see?

Without fitting the grooved 'vee' bracket in yr pic 2, the motor would rotate in the bottom bracket shell, or at least it would in 'normal' bikes.

You say "..... not in my case" - why is that then?

Pic courtesy of @Woosh TSDZ2 installation manual.

 

[Az.]

It is working! It is working! Oh, I really like the feel... but I miss throttle. Luckily bike is for my wife, not for me.

Now the hard part - cable management. Should have really started with that and prepared some intube cables to solder after motor installation. It is to late now to make it really tidy, but I was eager to test it out and

You say "..... not in my case" - why is that then?

To install motor I had to remove a bit of frame around bottom bracket. I took time and now motor fits perfectly well - it won't rotate even 1mm.

 

[tonyw]

If the motor is being pressed against the frame by the motor torque, then I think the danger is that motor casing cracks, which is what happened to a friend's bike.

 

[Az.]

If the motor is being pressed against the frame by the motor torque, then I think the danger is that motor casing cracks, which is what happened to a friend's bike.

Hmmm... that is a good point.... Do you know what was motor rated power?

 

[guerney]

Perhaps the case would be less likely to crack, if the force was spread over a larger area of motor case? Shape some sufficiently thick metal to fit around part of the case, to place between the frame and case, so force isn't acting on a small contact area?

 

[matthewslack]

The bit in post #7 is essential. Without it the motor is only supported at one end, and the metal at that end will have bending loads applied to it that it has not been designed to survive.

Any distortion of the casing will compromise gears and bearings even before any cracking and falling off.

It sounds like you found space for it, so no issue hopefully!

 

[guerney]

To install motor I had to remove a bit of frame around bottom bracket. I took time and now motor fits perfectly well - it won't rotate even 1mm.

@Az. - Do you have photos? Personally, I would have bought a different bike to convert, rather than remove a bit of bike frame.

 

[Az.]

The bit in post #7 is essential. Without it the motor is only supported at one end, and the metal at that end will have bending loads applied to it that it has not been designed to survive.

That is another very good point. It looks like I will have to remove motor after all and start from scratch...
On another hand I am tempted to take a risk, leave things as they are and move on to what is really interesting - my MTB and TSDZ8.
Yesterday I took new bike and my kids for a short test ride (+-30km) and all worked well.

 

[Az.]

@Az. - Do you have photos? Personally, I would have bought a different bike to convert, rather than remove a bit of bike frame.

OK, I will take photos.
Bike is great and it will stay (Cannondale Adventure EQ https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Cannondale-Adventure-EQ-2023-Hybrid-Classic-Bike_244627.htm ). Only question is how to convert it. Worst case scenario I might need to install rear hub, but I think TSDZ2B should do just fine.
Don't worry about frame I removed only a little and mostly non structural fragments.

 

[guerney]

OK, I will take photos.
Bike is great and it will stay (Cannondale Adventure EQ https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Cannondale-Adventure-EQ-2023-Hybrid-Classic-Bike_244627.htm ). Only question is how to convert it. Worst case scenario I might need to install rear hub, but I think TSDZ2B should do just fine.
Don't worry about frame I removed only a little and mostly non structural fragments.

My concern would have been reduction in resale value. The potential for a cracked motor case wouldn't have crossed my mind, because I've never heard of a Bafang motor case cracking. Cracked TSDZ2 motor cases have been mentioned on the forum before.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

I was thinking about a TSDZ8 conversion. If I was looking for a donor bike, is there anything I need to look out for to make the conversion as simple as possible ?

1) BSA bottom bracket (or press fit BB that I can buy BSA adapter)
2) Space on the downtube for battery
3) Hydraulic brakes
4) Anything I need to be wary about with regards to rear brake and gear cabling routing ?
5) Is there something I can check on the potential donor bike regarding the motor rubbing - or is that easy to fix ?
6) If I choose a full suspension donor bike is there anything I need to be careful of ?

 

[Az.]

I was thinking about a TSDZ8 conversion. If I was looking for a donor bike, is there anything I need to look out for to make the conversion as simple as possible ?

1) BSA bottom bracket (or press fit BB that I can buy BSA adapter)
2) Space on the downtube for battery
3) Hydraulic brakes
4) Anything I need to be wary about with regards to rear brake and gear cabling routing ?
5) Is there something I can check on the potential donor bike regarding the motor rubbing - or is that easy to fix ?
6) If I choose a full suspension donor bike is there anything I need to be careful of ?

Hi Peter

My main consideration would be space for battery. Especially if you plan to buy full suspension bike. Smallest Hailong battery is "Pro" I think - 93mm/368mm/90mm.

Hydraulic brakes are a must IMO, but donor bike can have mechanical as change to hydraulics is very easy as long as frame has mounts.

Brake and gear cables are problematic when you install TSDZ2B, but you will find a way around this problem. Not sure about TSDZ8 just yet. I will let you now.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Hi Peter

My main consideration would be space for battery. Especially if you plan to buy full suspension bike. Smallest Hailong battery is "Pro" I think - 93mm/368mm/90mm.

Hydraulic brakes are a must IMO, but donor bike can have mechanical as change to hydraulics is very easy as long as frame has mounts.

Brake and gear cables are problematic when you install TSDZ2B, but you will find a way around this problem. Not sure about TSDZ8 just yet. I will let you now.

Thanks Az

I think I have found the answer to point 5
"5) Is there something I can check on the potential donor bike regarding the motor rubbing - or is that easy to fix ?"

Tongsheng TSDZ2 review and build tips.

I have done this as a resource for novices like I am/ was who are attempting their first kit. Someone like me with no relevant tools, who has never even tightened brakes before. You can glean much of the following information on this forum but I wanted to bring it under one thread which would...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

"c) Bikes with fatter tyres such as modern mountain bikes tend to have a flared chainstay which will obstruct the motor from fitting. What this means is the horizontal tubing flares out very quickly from the bottom bracket as it goes to the back axle. Place your eye on the seat and look down to the pedals and observe how far the largest chain ring goes back. If the metal tubing going back towards the rear axle flares out much before this point the motor will probably not fit. See pic below for one that was a little tight.

 

[Woosh]

The tsdz8 has a very similar size and shape as the bbs01b, much easier to fit than tsdz2b, especially if you have cables running under the bottom bracket. You would need to reroute cables to fit tsdz2b, not with the tsdz8.