Urban Mover - Not moving

[OldBob1]

Ok would be good to see an image of your controller connections as d8veh suggested.
As I have been messing around with an old brush E-motor bike and fitted a new controller on and had to short out a connector to get the breast to work.

Bob

 

[billadie]

hi,

Pictures now uploaded to photobucket

billadie's Library | Photobucket

The wires I have are:

motor side
3 X power leads, 5 x hall effect sensor

from battery
2 x power

Control side
2 x 2 wire brake switch
1 x 3 wire from torque sensor
1 x 2 wire battery charge indicator


There are a couple of unconnected wires from controller. I think these are for throttle. There are otherwise no spare wires.

Hope this helps some.

Bill

 

[billadie]

i think that the problem seems to be the motor itself. I do not know enough to attempt a repair so I will probably replace it. BMS have the following:
Q100 24V250W-350W Rear Driving EBike Hub Motor - BMSBATTERY

This is available in 201 and 328 RPM versions.

I will fit a new controller KU63 250W 6Mosfets High Speed Controller - BMSBATTERY, but use the existing torque sensor & display.

Could anyone advise on the suitability of the motor and which version I should buy?

Thanks for all the help so far.

Bill

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Your torque sensor won't work with any other controller, because it gives the wrong type of signal, and it needs a 12v supply.

I'm looking at your wiring photo, and something doesn't add up. You mention a handlebar power meter, is it yellow and black that powers it?

The 4 way connector second from left in first picture: are you sure that it doesn't have a partner?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've thought of another cause of the problem: Normally, as a safety precaution, the controller needs to see zero from your torque sensor before it'll give power. It's possible that water in it is causing it to give a no-load signal above the threshold. Try powering up your bike, and while it's switched on, disconnect and reconnect the torque sensor. Be careful because the motor might start on re-connection. If it does, that's the problem.

Just had another idea if that doesn't work. Assuming that the spare 4-way connector is for a throttle with LEDs, we need to confirm that the yellow has battery voltage on it, so could you measure the voltage between the yellow and the black - being careful not to touch the other pins with your probes. It might be easier to stick them up the back of the connector. If you get about 26v there, then the green is the throttle signal and red 5v. You should confirm 5v between red and black. If you don't get those voltages, report back what you do get.

if you then join the green and red wires, the motor should give full power like you've opened the throttle fully. Make sure that the wheel's off the ground unless you want to chase after your bike. The easiest way to do it is to scrape a bit of insulation off the wires to touch them together unless you know how to release the pins from the connector by pushing back the barb with a needle.

This test should determine whether it's your torque sensor that's faulty. If it is, all you need is a throttle to get going again.

 

[hech]

Good idea D8veh, I'm sure the 4 wire connection is for a throttle with LED.
Bill, I have a spare throttle and bog standard pedal sensor, both new which I do not need and could send quickly.. Maybe you should try that before write off the motor.

 

[billadie]

Thanks D8veh & Hech

OK in order. The handlebar display runs from the yellow & black wires.

The 4 way fully wired connector doesn't have a partner. The reading between the yellow & black is 26V, the red & black is 4.7V. I shorted the red & green but no motor.

I also disconnected and reconnected the torque sensor whilst switched on, but again no joy.

To return the spare wires, in addition to the 4 way which you believe is the throttle I have 2 single connectors, white wires, one male on female coming from the controller. I do not know what they do. They are capable of connecting to form a loop. i am reasonably certain they were not connected, but I could be wrong.

The only other connections not explored are those to the motor itself. I really do not know whether these can be checked without dismantling the motor.

Again, any help gratefully received

Bill

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The white wires are normally the 15mph speed limit. You've got nothing to lose by trying it with them connected.

Ideally you need an ebike test meter to test the motor, but you can do it with a torch bulb and some wire. When you turn the motor backwards, it becomes a generator, so you connect the bulb between each pair of motor wires (3 pairs), rotate the wheel backwards slowly, and you should see the bulb flicker. If you don't see anything, spin the wheel a bit faster. If no flickering, something is wrong; however, it's highly unlikely that anything could go wrong with that part of the motor.

 

[muckymits]

The white wires are normally the 15mph speed limit. You've got nothing to lose by trying it with them connected.

Ideally you need an ebike test meter to test the motor, but you can do it with a torch bulb and some wire. When you turn the motor backwards, it becomes a generator, so you connect the bulb between each pair of motor wires (3 pairs), rotate the wheel backwards slowly, and you should see the bulb flicker. If you don't see anything, spin the wheel a bit faster. If no flickering, something is wrong; however, it's highly unlikely that anything could go wrong with that part of the motor.

Easier to just join the phase wires together and feel the restriction, Just like a Telma vehicle retarder

 

[billadie]

Hi, checking the notes i think we already covered this, so assume the connections OK

"should all go on and off as you rotate the wheel, so that they go to the same voltage when on, and down to 0v when off.Turn the wheel slowly and wait 'til your meter stabilises after each change from on to off before noting the voltages. If you can, check on the controller side of the connector in case of a connection fault. If faulty, check the other side of the connector to eliminate any connection fault."

 

[billadie]

Please to say that the Urban Mover is now working again. Replaced both the torque sensor and the controller. Thanks to all here for their help.

Trouble is, that not having used in for so long, I am not sure that I need it. Also saw a drop-dead gorgeous non-powered BH bike in Go-Outdoors. Don't know if mt legs would be able to cope with an un-powered bike now, but it only weighed 14Kg. Might be interesting to find out. In which case the UM will have to be sold. Anyone know an LBS in reasonable distance of Glos where I could try one?

Bill