Help! Voilamart 26” front hub looking for repair

[mikeconnect]

In the main part soldered with the hall wires some boards have small machine screws (but doesn't appear so with yours) otherwise they may have a couple of lugs on the back that slot in somewhere or maybe adhered down.

Mike your impatience is showing one needs to be more patient, too many posts repeating themselves in to short a timescale for response. Users don't live permanently attached to the forum and there may be several hours before they dip back in.
vfr has indicated that although continuity may be fine on all wires it still doesn't rule out that the spinning out hasn't caused the inner wires casing to split and thus a pair of wires could still be shorting against each other. Without being able to see inside the outer cables sheathing no one can be 100% sure that no damage or splits have occurred within.

Use this link and follow it to test the controller mosfets, if a short did occur one or more will be damaged. Rather then explain the process it is much easier to read the easy how to guide. For best results discharge the capacitor fully by touching the controller +/- battery connections together, sometimes a spark may occur but it will cause no damage.

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/BlownMosfets.pdf

Once done check out the hall sensor testing again using the easy to follow guide in the link below.

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf

Can I just please make sure that these are the cables that I am continuity testing ?

 

[Nealh]

Can I just please make sure that these are the cables that I am continuity testing ?

Yes the three thicker phase wires and the thin ones in the white connector block.

 

[WheezyRider]

From here:



To here:

 

[WheezyRider]

Thanks so the only unknown is whether the Ali board Will work without the R1 and R2 components

I wouldn't say it's the only unknown The board may not be the same size, the circuit tracks on the board may be different, the sensors may be the wrong type...

However, from what we have established so far, R2 seems redundant and R1 is a high frequency filter capacitor between 5V and ground, and that could be replaced with a discrete component soldered across the terminal pads.

I wouldn't worry about it at the moment. Keep your credit card in your pocket until you know that the motor itself is sound.

I still believe that it wouldn't be difficult to repair the existing PCB. It's 2 layer, but low component density and large track width.

To be able to get it apart is another matter, it seems to be glued down and the sensors are also glued in place.

 

[mikeconnect]

I wouldn't say it's the only unknown The board may not be the same size, the circuit tracks on the board may be different, the sensors may be the wrong type...

However, from what we have established so far, R2 seems redundant and R1 is a high frequency filter capacitor between 5V and ground, and that could be replaced with a discrete component soldered across the terminal pads.

I wouldn't worry about it at the moment. Keep your credit card in your pocket until you know that the motor itself is sound.

I still believe that it wouldn't be difficult to repair the existing PCB. It's 2 layer, but low component density and large track width.

To be able to get it apart is another matter, it seems to be glued down and the sensors are also glued in place.

Well I may take on the challenge of repairing the board after I’ve checked the mosfets and double checked and jiggled the wires . After all if I don’t try I’m still gonna have to remove it for the new board. If I do I assume I have to remove the top layer to bridge a wire across Thanks

 

[WheezyRider]

Well I may take on the challenge of repairing the board after I’ve checked the mosfets and double checked and jiggled the wires . After all if I don’t try I’m still gonna have to remove it for the new board. If I do I assume I have to remove the top layer to bridge a wire across Thanks

Give it a go. Repairing broken tracks is quite easy. Carefully remove the insulation on the nearest bit of good track around the break. If the break is small, just melt solder over it to make a bridge. If the break is large, use a small piece of wire to bridge the gap and solder it in place. If a pad is missing, solder a piece of wire onto the nearest bit of good track and solder the other end onto the component that should be connected to the pad. If it's a wire connection, just solder it on where you have good track. Add a bit of epoxy on top to stop it breaking away...

Years of not having the right tools and skills to solder properly makes a good training ground for learning how to fix things!

 

[vfr400]

There's no point in continuing with this. Simple logic: The motor worked before the spin-out, afterwards, it didn't. Can anybody name a single failure mode related to that that wouldn't be a result of the wires shorting or breaking?

If the wires shorted, they're damaged, Any repair of the consequential damage would be a complete waste of time and money, while the cable remains damaged.

The cable could be repaired by an expert, but given how long it's taken to get here, I think the chance of OP doing it successfully is very close to zero.

The continuity test is only to confirm it, so that we can put it to bed.

 

[mikeconnect]

There's no point in continuing with this. Simple logic: The motor worked before the spin-out, afterwards, it didn't. Can anybody name a single failure mode related to that that wouldn't be a result of the wires shorting or breaking?

If the wires shorted, they're damaged, Any repair of the consequential damage would be a complete waste of time and money, while the cable remains damaged.

The cable could be repaired by an expert, but given how long it's taken to get here, I think the chance of OP doing it successfully is very close to zero.

The continuity test is only to confirm it, so that we can put it to bed.

You’ve lost me . I’ve done the bloody continuity tests . All passed . I’ve done the cross wire tests all passed. All as advised by you . Now it’s mosfet tests when I can get to it . And when somebody answer my last questions about mosfets . I’m a quick learner and Ill know when I’ve reached my limit . But the last thing I want with all respect to advice thus far given , is for somebody to send me down a road to a possible solution And then say it’s a waste of time after I’ve done it

 

[mikeconnect]

Give it a go. Repairing broken tracks is quite easy. Carefully remove the insulation on the nearest bit of good track around the break. If the break is small, just melt solder over it to make a bridge. If the break is large, use a small piece of wire to bridge the gap and solder it in place. If a pad is missing, solder a piece of wire onto the nearest bit of good track and solder the other end onto the component that should be connected to the pad. If it's a wire connection, just solder it on where you have good track. Add a bit of epoxy on top to stop it breaking away...

Years of not having the right tools and skills to solder properly makes a good training ground for learning how to fix things!

I definitely will . And it’s a good way to learn from other people mistakes . I’m a quick learner and with my good sense of logic and you good fellows advice I’ll try . Only thing g working against me is free time . I’m very busy with my work . That’s why I may appear impatient for quick replies to my questions . Cos I can’t afford to waste my down time
Thanks

 

[mikeconnect]

From here:

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To here:

View attachment 37528

Wheely I’m talking about mosfet test not Cable continuity . I’ve already done that . It doesn’t look like that in the link I was given For mosfets

 

[WheezyRider]

Wheely I’m talking about mosfet test not Cable continuity . I’ve already done that . It doesn’t look like that in the link I was given For mosfets

Ok, wasn't sure from your post and I just wanted to be sure you had looked at continuity and shorts at the correct points.

 

[mikeconnect]

Ok, wasn't sure from your post and I just wanted to be sure you had looked at continuity and shorts at the correct points.

So are the 2 Arrowe sets of wires the correct ones fir mosfet Tests . It looks like It as per the link given ?

 

[mikeconnect]

Really sorry about this folks but I just discovered from the original guy that he did find a break and repaired them . Sorry but he only told me he tidied them up , I just thought I’d recheck with him and he said there was a break . So anyway on to the mosfets but query outstanding on that job waiting fir confirmation from anyone . Not had reply from The kind chap that sent me the link may be busy or away and I wAnt keep on

 

[vfr400]

Can anybody name a single failure mode related to that that wouldn't be a result of the wires shorting or breaking?

That's a no then?

 

[mikeconnect]

Yes the three thicker phase wires and the thin ones in the white connector block.

I’m talking about the mosfet test As per your link sent to me . not the overall cable test Which is Already done
so Like in the photos on the link it’s green blue and yellow tested against the black and red . So Is my photo the correct ones

 

[WheezyRider]

Really sorry about this folks but I just discovered from the original guy that he did find a break and repaired them . Sorry but he only told me he tidied them up , I just thought I’d recheck with him and he said there was a break . So anyway on to the mosfets but query outstanding on that job waiting fir confirmation from anyone . Not had reply from The kind chap that sent me the link may be busy or away and I wAnt keep on

So there was a break in the wires between the controller and the connections in the motor and the guy fixed it some how? Do you know what he did to fix it? Did he do something like feed some of the cable through the axle until the kink was no longer in the axle and then cut the cable off there and then solder all the wires back in their right places? Did he not test the controller at the same time?

Nealh is the one who posted the link for MOSFET testing in situ. He'll probably be around later.

 

[WheezyRider]

There's no point in continuing with this. Simple logic: The motor worked before the spin-out, afterwards, it didn't. Can anybody name a single failure mode related to that that wouldn't be a result of the wires shorting or breaking?

If the wires shorted, they're damaged, Any repair of the consequential damage would be a complete waste of time and money, while the cable remains damaged.

The cable could be repaired by an expert, but given how long it's taken to get here, I think the chance of OP doing it successfully is very close to zero.

The continuity test is only to confirm it, so that we can put it to bed.

What would you recommend for the best vfr? Scrap the motor, scrap the controller, scrap the whole bike & use for parts on other bike...scrap the motor and controller and replace both, or just replace the motor?

Ultimately, the OP may not get anywhere with this, but he is learning a lot in the process.

 

[vfr400]

What would you recommend for the best vfr? Scrap the motor, scrap the controller, scrap the whole bike & use for parts on other bike...scrap the motor and controller and replace both, or just replace the motor?

Ultimately, the OP may not get anywhere with this, but he is learning a lot in the process.

I've repaired 3 damaged cables. I won't do any more. It's quite difficult to get the wire through the axle. It should be easy to solder the wires after cutting off the damaged bit, but in practice, it's difficult to get at the phase wire joints, and after you've soldered them, it's difficult to get everything back in place such that nothing rubs. In OP's case, his motor cable probably isn't long enough, so he'd have to buy some sort of extension and splice it in.

After all that, he still has to replace all the hall sensors and repair the PCB

 

[mikeconnect]

So to all concerned with apologies again . There would definitely have been a short as he repaired 3 wires with split insulation.

 

[mikeconnect]

What would you recommend for the best vfr? Scrap the motor, scrap the controller, scrap the whole bike & use for parts on other bike...scrap the motor and controller and replace both, or just replace the motor?

Ultimately, the OP may not get anywhere with this, but he is learning a lot in the process.

I don’t mind trying even if I don’t get anywhere but I believe I will .
But the case as we’ve now discovered that there were 3 wires with split insulation so almost def a short.