Which kit, and hydraulic front brakes an issue?

Streethawk

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 12, 2011
634
15
But just because you can fit on a bike doesnt make it the right size. Really, the Aurora is bigger than i'd like at 6' with a 33" inside leg. A typical mountain bike frame for the average 5'9-10" rider is 18". I usually ride 19-20" frames.
 

peasjam

Pedelecer
Feb 25, 2011
89
0
Well, on the basis of all the feedback I've gone for the 350W 36v BPM front hub (no sensor) and 48V 16ah LiFePO4 battery. Controllers don't seem too expensive so I don't mind swapping the kit one out at a later point if I need.

I'll be upgrading the front rotor to 203mm using a Hope mount adaptor from chainreactioncycles, and also see if I can fit some cyclo cross tyres to give a bit more ride comfort.

Just need to buy some torque arms too, it's a high quality rigid fork but it makes sense to take precautions.

When the kit turns up I'm going to have a look at the switch set up in the supplied brake levers and see if it's possible to get it working with my existing hydraulic levers. Not sure if it's a simple microswitch or resistive, or whether it's even a feasible thing to do.

Can't wait for it all to arrive now, going to be a long few weeks! Still at least by then it should be light both ways for my commute.

Thanks again for all the help. My wife is looking on with interest so there is likely to be a custom rear wheel build using her MTB as a platform round the corner.

Matt.
 

mutmost

Pedelecer
Jun 24, 2009
62
0
Peasjam,
I understand that the cutout switch can be replaced with a reed switch , but you have to look out for normally open or normally closed as if you get the wrong one it will only work with the brake on.

I have hydraulic levers and run without the cut out but do have a switch i can grab if i have to which turns off the controller feed.

For Torque arms I used 6mm mild steel plate 50mm sq and drilled / filed a hole in it for the axle and then used the rack / mudguard eyelet to bolt through. (With minimal shaping to get a good (flat)fit to the fork). Obviously depending on your kit you may need to remove a connector to do both sides (I did).

i have covered 3200 miles like this on a 500w set up without issue (apart from punctures :( and the odd broken wire due to vibration /bad set up)

enjoy your kit.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
When the kit turns up I'm going to have a look at the switch set up in the supplied brake levers and see if it's possible to get it working with my existing hydraulic levers. Not sure if it's a simple microswitch or resistive, or whether it's even a feasible thing to do.
You need something like this. I'm sure there's other ones available if you look. It doesn't give the pipe size, but basically you need to "T" into your brake line/s unless you can find an inline switch with the right pipe connection.
Clutch Switch Hydraulic Type | Any bike