Which Kit?

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
Hi All,

I'm new to electric bike technology, and am looking for the best choice of kit. It is to fit onto my not special mountain bike.

I would like to be able to go for a bike ride of about 20-40 miles, including easy off road, with a bit of help on hills, and the luxury of assistance on the way home.

I think rear wheel, with removable batteries for security when leaving the bike.

I've read about geared and none geared motors, lipo batteries, and battery import problems. I would probably go for the better engineered kit, if it seems good value

Any guidance will be much appreciated.

Cheers, Camerart.
 
C

Cyclezee

Guest
Hi Camerat,

Welcome to the forum.

Some more info is needed to give good advice.

It would be useful to know the make and model of your bike?

Why would you prefer rear to front wheel? There is also the option of crank/centre drive.

With regard to battery security, all of them are removable and most can be locked on the bike.

I can understand why you would want to remove the battery as it is the most expensive single component.

Now the big question which may help narrow down your choices, what is your budget?

Also, if your MTB is "not so special", why not just go for a complete electric which may cost you less than a kit.

Finally, just so you know, we have the best conversion kits available in the UK, but don't just take my word for it;)
 

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
Hi Camerat,

Welcome to the forum.

Some more info is needed to give good advice.

It would be useful to know the make and model of your bike?

Why would you prefer rear to front wheel? There is also the option of crank/centre drive.

With regard to battery security, all of them are removable and most can be locked on the bike.

I can understand why you would want to remove the battery as it is the most expensive single component.

Now the big question which may help narrow down your choices, what is your budget?

Also, if your MTB is "not so special", why not just go for a complete electric which may cost you less than a kit.

Finally, just so you know, we have the best conversion kits available in the UK, but don't just take my word for it;)
 

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
Hi cyclezee,

In the past we've had bikes stolen, just as they were set-up as we like them, so I now try to keep the cost down, so that if the bikes goes, it's less of a sting.

So I think that a rear hub motor covered by panniers, perhaps where I keep the batteries, seems best.

I've decided to concentrate on the motor first and so far my reading has led me to geared type motors, possibly cassette, with CST gears.

It appears that for me I might have to buy from abroad, sorry! and shame, as I haven't seen as good prices here, although I'm still looking. I'm hoping someone can point me to the best choice.

I might use the bike without batteries, or have a pack for short journeys5-6 miles and an add on to give 30-40 miles. Just normal, to light of road use.

Cheers, Camerart.
 
Last edited:
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
If you have a nice bike with cassette gears, a CST motor allows you to keep them, ut cheap bikes have free-wheel gears, so, unless you want to upgrade, a CST motor is not really necessary.

It's difficult to advise unless you say how fast you want to go, how heavy you are and what sort of hills you want to tackle.
 

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
I don't know what CST means, I thought it meant later composite planetary gears.

I'm about 12 Stone, I suppose on roads 12MPH and in woods 5MPH.

You sent me a link to your bikes, and today it still doesn't. You also sent some photos, of bikes, I like the look of. Did you get the motors from abroad or here? What kind are they?

Cheers, Camerart
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Motors with the designation CST have the spline for casette (free-hub) gears. Other motors have the threaded boss for free-wheel gears.

All my stuff came from China, mainly from BMSattery and Greenbikekit.

From what you've described, a standard 250w kit with 10aH (or near) battery would be OK, in which case it would be better to buy from a UK supplier like Cycltricity or 8Funbike.com because the price is nearly the same, but you get full UK support. You only need to buy from China, if you want a better specification kit, more power or speed.
http://www.8funbike.com/store.asp/d=5/c=45
http://www.cyclotricity.com/electric-bike-kit/

If you go with Cyclotricity, you should pay the extra for the LED or LCD display for better pedal assist control.

All my stuff is on photobucket. You can browse through the photos.
http://s451.photobucket.com/user/d8veh/library/?sort=3&page=1
 

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
Motors with the designation CST have the spline for casette (free-hub) gears. Other motors have the threaded boss for free-wheel gears.

All my stuff came from China, mainly from BMSattery and Greenbikekit.

From what you've described, a standard 250w kit with 10aH (or near) battery would be OK, in which case it would be better to buy from a UK supplier like Cycltricity or 8Funbike.com because the price is nearly the same, but you get full UK support. You only need to buy from China, if you want a better specification kit, more power or speed.
http://www.8funbike.com/store.asp/d=5/c=45
http://www.cyclotricity.com/electric-bike-kit/

If you go with Cyclotricity, you should pay the extra for the LED or LCD display for better pedal assist control.

All my stuff is on photobucket. You can browse through the photos.
http://s451.photobucket.com/user/d8veh/library/?sort=3&page=1
 

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
C

Cyclezee

Guest
Hi cyclezee,

In the past we've had bikes stolen, just as they were set-up as we like them, so I now try to keep the cost down, so that if the bikes goes, it's less of a sting.

So I think that a rear hub motor covered by panniers, perhaps where I keep the batteries, seems best.

I've decided to concentrate on the motor first and so far my reading has led me to geared type motors, possibly cassette, with CST gears.

It appears that for me I might have to buy from abroad, sorry! and shame, as I haven't seen as good prices here, although I'm still looking. I'm hoping someone can point me to the best choice.

I might use the bike without batteries, or have a pack for short journeys5-6 miles and an add on to give 30-40 miles. Just normal, to light of road use.

Cheers, Camerart.
Hi Camerart,

I would love to sell you one of our kits, but I guess they are outside your budget.

Lots of people buy kits from suppliers abroad, it is quite understandable because there are savings to be made.

Just be aware when buying from outside the EU you will almost certainly have to add VAT and import duty to the purchase a shipping costs.

When you factor that in along with lack of local support, one of the kits already recommended by D8veh from a UK supplier might be your best option.
 

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
Thanks Cyclezee,

I'm a bit puzzled! I have zoned in on D8veh's and his mates bikes/motors that I saw from some photos he posted, and he bought them from abroad, also one being Q100H in a wheel. I like the look of them and I would prefer to buy from uk, but if you look at the ones, I have narrowed down in # 10 or very similar, can I buy these in UK? Please post a link. My budget is mainly what I take to I'll buy.

Cheers, Camerart.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
The Q100H is better than the Q100 because it has slightly more speed. The Q100 has to run very slow before it gets in the high torque zone for hill-climbing unless you run it at 44v.

I tried the bottle battery with integrated controller on my Q100C. It didn't work properly, so you might want to stick with the tried and tested KU65 controller with LED. The KU63 also works, but you only get one level of PAS - maximum.

You can't buy these motors in the UK.
 

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
Just ordered: Q100H Rear wheel, SO6S Controller, Thumb wheel throttle,S-LCD- E-Bike LCD meter.

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice, let's hope I picked wisely.

Now I've got to find batteries!

Cheers, Camerart.
 
C

Cyclezee

Guest
Just ordered: Q100H Rear wheel, SO6S Controller, Thumb wheel throttle,S-LCD- E-Bike LCD meter.

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice, let's hope I picked wisely.

Now I've got to find batteries!

Cheers, Camerart.
Hi Camerart,

If you email me with you battery requirement, I can give you a quote.
 

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
Morning John,

I'm exploring ideas how to place cells/batteries on the bike. (Just ideas!!)

24/36V

1/ Slide them into the bike frame tubes.
2/ In the triangle below the crossbar.
3/ Flat packs in the panniers.
4/ More conventionally on the rack.

I'm sure there's no hurry, while I wait for the slow boat from China.

Cheers, Camerart.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Did you read what I said about the controllers? If you have to buy an extra controller later, it'll cost a lot more.

24v will make the motor run too slow (about 12mph max).
 

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
Regarding 24V, I'm just playing at the moment, I have some 24v ones, I'm interested to see what happens, and I was also thinking about 24v with a 12v adding pack.

I did read what you said, and I'd love to buy back-ups of everything, but you might have read that I said, that I've read about lots of bad stories and I'm not yet confident to risk it on my first go. But I appreciate your help,thanks.
Camerart.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
A 24v battery is about 29v fully charged, which is the point at which a 36v controller switches off.
 

camerart

Pedelecer
Mar 22, 2012
138
9
Dorset
OK!

Will this stuff work with any sort of battery, e,g, car batteries. Don't worry I won't be riding round with three car batteries on the rack, I'm just asking:)

Cheers, Camerart.
 

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