Wisper 905 SEL - Hill Problem

[karl101]

Hello,

Just gotten my new Wisper 905 SEL yesterday, from a shop in Leeds, I live in Sheffield so the dealer is a fair distance away. From the train station I cycled back home the four miles with no problems, then after tea took it out properly for the first time.

The route I wanted to go has a 1 mile continual uphill and the bike seemed to be coping very well and I was easily pedalling away, probably in second gear. Then as I almost got to the top, the motor cut out and and the power control panel on the handlebars was dead.

I switched the battery off and back on, the power status on the battery itself shows fully charged, the motor did not feel warm. Getting back home I checked both fuses, they were OK. So I put it on charge, when the LED on the charger went green, I found that it would power on again, I left the battery on charge for at least 12 hours.

This morning I set off again, same route, up the hill and at almost exactly the same point the motor cut out again, with the same symptoms as before. I have now put it back on charge, and the charge LED is showing yellow after about 50 minutes.

Here is the elevation and speed data from the GPS, to give an idea of this hill. It doesn't seem like a massive climb to me:

Any ideas? Is this a faulty unit?

Thanks

Karl

 

[eddieo]

Wisper normally have a presence on here but they are away in Germany this week for a bike show....

I suggest you take it up with the dealer Tuesday morning. do you get an 02 error message on your display at all? That is a fine bike you have! i really wanted one but needed a lighter bike to carry on my camper...

One thing about Wisper the support is excellent and I am confident they will get you sorted. your bike has the same Dapush system (other then a better motor I believe) as the Alpino bikes and my DaaHub, so have a look at down loadable Alpino manual on support area of wisper site.

mine did cut out occasionally as well but have had an upgraded controller which has fixed it.....

 

[karl101]

Hello Eddie
I may have a different controller, mine has rows of LED's and no numeric display. But no LED's illuminate when I press the power button.

The LED on the charger has just gone green. However it still won't switch on.

Karl.

 

[eddieo]

Hello Eddie
I may have a different controller, mine has rows of LED's and no numeric display. But no LED's illuminate when I press the power button.

The LED on the charger has just gone green. However it still won't switch on.

Karl.

hi Karl. think we are talking at cross purposes, I doubt that you can see the controller it is a small box with many cables, normally hidden away under battery

The LED's probably on top of battery?

the display which has all the info and you can set your assist level etc...is on the handle bars?

if you are losing all signs of life I'm not sure what it is, but probably some sort of overload or loose connection if it manages to reset itself eventually. I'm far from technical, hopefully someone will be along soon to help. but it really is the dealer where you bought it responsibility...

 

[flecc]

Connection problem when running under high loading current is one possible cause, in those circumstances sometimes oddly due to loss of a low current Hall sensor connection at the motor to controller connector. In any event, definitely one for Wisper and the dealer to sort on your new bike rather than you experimenting meanwhile.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Hi Karl, as Flecc says, it may be a connection is breaking after the long climb due to heat, the best course of action is to call your dealer for advice. Failing that contact Wisper support there is a diagnostic feature on your bike and we will quickly be able to work out what the problem is and cure it for you.

All the best

David

 

[karl101]

Hello,

Eddie: There are LED's on the top of the battery, these are marked "Battery Indicator" I was looking at controls on the handlebars. Does checking the cables that connect to the controller invalidate the warranty? Obviously opening the controller itself would.

Flecc: OK, that sounds like its more than a bad connection. The journey to my dealer takes two trains, and one of those is really slow.

Karl.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Hi Karl, you dont need to go to the dealer, we can probably work out what the problem is via the diagnostics feature on your bike. Try calling your dealer, if he can't help he will be able to get advice from Wisper support.

All the best

David

 

[karl101]

Hello David,

OK, thanks, I shall contact them on Tuesday.

Karl.

 

[eddieo]

I know it must be disheartening having problems so soon, but Wisper will look after you and believe me thats a smashing bike...I'm very envious as I wanted one

 

[karl101]

Hello,
Problem solved. Rang Wisper this morning, and the man answering immediately knew what the problem was. The holder for the main fuse, the one that delivers power to the controller/motor is a faulty design. When it gets warm the plastic softens and the contacts sink in, the circuit breaks and so no power.

In the bag of bits that came with the bike was a replacement fuse holder, using the cap from this has solved the problem. I think the dealer either didn't know or had forgotten to change them over. The man from Wisper also says he will be posting a couple of caps out.

Just been on my first ride out, 27miles from Sheffield to the Derwent Dams and back with the only issue being a pedal making a sinister creaking noise.

Karl.

 

[jasono]

Pleased to hear the problem has been sorted

I've found Wispers customer care and after sales to be excellent

Cheers

 

[karl101]

Hello again,
I have just melted my second fuse holder. Examining the spare that came in the bits bag, it set me wondering, the fuse holder says 6.3 Amps at 250Volts.

Watts / Volts = Amps

250W / 36V = 6.9A

So obviously the peak current is more than the holder is rated for. And, assuming that the controller will be drawing more power to sustain the motor as the voltage from the battery drops:

250W / 30V = 8.3A
250W / 25V = 10A

Then as Sheffield is a collection of prolonged hills, I can see that I'll be needing to replace the fuse cap at least once a week, possibly more.

Having visited an electronics shop, who sent me to a specialist battery shop (I didn't know such a place existed in Sheffield until today), both said I should fit a 30A in-line blade fuse, as used in cars, such as here: Automotive Blade Fuses for Car, Van and Motorcycle (first hit of google).

I can do this, for me it is a trivial job, however I suspect this will invalidate the warranty.

Any advice?

Thanks.
Karl

Watt, Volt, Amp calculator: Opamp Labs Inc <> E-I-R-P Calculator <> www.opamplabs.com

 

[flecc]

I'd be very surprised if David Miall at Wisper took such a strict view on the warranty. It's more likely that he will be grateful to you for the feedback on this problem. His concern is invariably in the customer's interests rather than in strict interpretations of rules.

 

[Mussels]

Try pedalling harder.

 

[karl101]

Try pedalling harder.

I tried that, the legs said no!

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Hi Karl, I am sorry the fix didn't work for you, we will be replacing the fuse holders. In the mean time please do the fix you suggest, it will not effect your warranty.

Best regards

David

 

[Wisper Bikes]

I should add a caveat, to say that any work carried out on batteries is strictly prohibited unless it is cleared with us first. Opening the battery is dangerous and should not be undertaken by anyone who is not an officially qualified electrician. My agreement for Karl to do this work without voiding his warranty is a one off and does not create a president.

All the best

David

 

[karl101]

Hello David,
Thanks, I have carried out the work. The blade fuse holder slots down neatly between the case and battery. Been out twice now on a 14 mile hilly ride without any battery problems.

Here's the elevation and speed data:

Karl

 

[eddieo]

apart from this problem what s the bike like? what did you have before? I really like the spec over the normal SE