thats not goodKnowing the gear ratios is all very well, but can you actually use them all?
On the Wisper Works 905 SE City that I tried yesterday, I couldn't use first gear because the chain kept falling off the front ring. It happened on two occasions. On the third occasion it was about to happen, I recognised the transmission creaks and groans leading up to it, so backed off and changed up to second gear.
That experience, on a bike which had only travelled five miles since new, has given me concerns about the build quality and/or componentry fitted.
Earlier in the year I did about 400 miles on a 2009 905 city and the chain didn't come off once, sounds like somethings wrong on that one.Knowing the gear ratios is all very well, but can you actually use them all?
On the Wisper Works 905 SE City that I tried yesterday, I couldn't use first gear because the chain kept falling off the front ring. It happened on two occasions. On the third occasion it was about to happen, I recognised the transmission creaks and groans leading up to it, so backed off and changed up to second gear.
That experience, on a bike which had only travelled five miles since new, has given me concerns about the build quality and/or componentry fitted.
The one I own now (built April 2009) had the derailleur set up perfectly which I wasn't expecting TBH for a bike not sold from a bike shop. There is a two stage quality check on each Wisper...
its possible that the one Davall tried had either had someone tweaking the setting and getting it wrong or the derallieur had got knocked/bent in storage..
it should be on the tag that was attached to it. This has the serial number of the bike and battery, date of manufacture and checking, the "chop" (what the Chinese call a rubber stamp ) of the first QA team, and the actual name of the head of the second QA team. In 32 years of riding bicycles I have never seen a tag like this before on a new bike so I kept it as it was quite impressive to see that level of detail.@Alex728 where is the date of the bike? is it on the bike somewhere or on documents
i like to know more about my bike
thanks for thatit should be on the tag that was attached to it. This has the serial number of the bike and batter, date of manufacture and checking, the "chop" (what the Chinese call a rubber stamp ) of the first QA team, and the actual name of the head of the second QA team. In 32 years of riding bicycles I have never seen a tag like this before on a new bike so I kept it as it was quite impressive to see that level of detail.
Hi DavallKnowing the gear ratios is all very well, but can you actually use them all?
On the Wisper Works 905 SE City that I tried yesterday, I couldn't use first gear because the chain kept falling off the front ring. It happened on two occasions. On the third occasion it was about to happen, I recognised the transmission creaks and groans leading up to it, so backed off and changed up to second gear.
That experience, on a bike which had only traveled five miles since new, has given me concerns about the build quality and/or componentry fitted.
Hi Davall (cool name first three letters of David and last three of Miall!)Can't see how it could be the rear derailleur myself, given that the chain was falling off the front chainring having driven all the way around the largest rear cog, but never mind -- it wasn't my bike, it was one I went to look at with a view to purchase. It was nearly new, but this put me right off.
Thanks for the advice though, which I presume would extend to a second owner buying privately?
No it's the standard way round. I though Shimano had tried reversing it to enable faster downshifts but it wasn't popular and got binned.is the Wisper derailleur one of these newer "MTB" types where without tension it goes to the largest sprocket rather than the smallest? If so I can easily see how and why the bike would dump the chain if the limit screws were not correctly set.
I thought chain suck was when the chainring was more worn than the chain and the hooked teeth try and drag the links right round instead of letting go, that could be wrong though.I imagine it just confused the hell out of people!
I've found as my setup has no chainguard or retaining rings on the chainwheel that if the derailer is slightly out it can introduce enough of what I think is known as 'chain suck' for the chain to slack enough around the chainring to come off. I've combatted this in two ways, by both religiously checking the gear cable tension, and shortening the chain by the minimum of two links. The latter makes the chain a little tight when in the huge first gear, but as the only occasion I've had to use it was when my battery ran out (never again! ), it doesn't bother me too much.
There's also the 'B' adjustment screw that lifts the rear mech away from the sprockets that needs to be checked to make sure the mech isn't grinding against the sprockets (particularly in first), though I've only set this once, and never had to bother with it since.