XF07 36v 250w uphill performance

[eSteve]

Hi All,

I have fitted on my bike a XF07 front hub 36v 250w on my bike and dont find it the best of help up the hills, hust wondering if anyone else has this fitted to there bikes if they can share there experience/performance they see.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[vfr400]

The motor will only give as much power as the controller allows. What is the maximum current written on the controller?

 

[eSteve]

15A

 

[eSteve]

it might be normal i just have no other experience to put t down to

But if the performance is not right i will return before my 30 days are up

 

[sjpt]

We've fitted one to a tandem. We find it extremely helpful but still need to put in quite a bit of effort on hills. We would have bought a punchier one (as advised by Woosh when we bought it) but could not find a suitable one with 700C wheels at the time. The problem with any hub motor is that it doesn't take advantage of the gears, so as you get slower the power available is reduced. And as you say, XF07 is not the best for hills.

You can look at the simulator
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?bopen=false&motor=MXUS_XF07&batt=B3614_PF&cont=cust_17_70_0.03_V&wheel=700c&mass=170

The red (power) line won't change with steepness/grade (unless you set throttle to auto), and you can see that at 5mph power is close to the nominal 250w, against a peak of 400w at 15.5mph. Efficiency is right down as well; in fact only peaks above the cutoff speed.

 

[vfr400]

15A

You can go up to 18A, which will give 20% more power. It may be pissible to do tgat in the LCD advanced settings, depending which LCD you have, otherwise you can add a blob of solder to the shunt in the controller. You solder 20% of its length to get 20% increase in power.

 

[sjpt]

I had put in 17amp for the simulator above as that is what the Woosh kit had. You can easily change that.

Off up the hill with our XF07 in just a moment.

 

[minexplorer]

Hi All,

I have fitted on my bike a XF07 front hub 36v 250w on my bike and dont find it the best of help up the hills, hust wondering if anyone else has this fitted to there bikes if they can share there experience/performance they see.

Thanks,
Steve

I can vouch for d8veh s..i mean vfr s advice. a blob of solder really makes a difference. it transformed my wifes 200w rated rear hub motor into pulling 800 watts according to the watt meter.no problems at 19amps.she can get that with the throttle.have you got a throttle.if not the controllers wont give full power anyway using PAS.except under initial acceleration for example.

 

[eSteve]

Thanks for the reply's, I do have a throttle and PAS, how much solder? and does any one have a good guide?

I checked some youtube videos but thy just put loads on.

Whats the chance I damage the controller or motor?

 

[vfr400]

The shunt is normally like a staple withtwo short vertical legs and a longer horizontal bar. You should aim to get a nice blob on one of the vertical legs. The important thing is the length of the blob. It must be around 20% of the total length of the shunt. The guys that make Youtube videos often haven't got a clue what they're doing. If you put too much solder on, you can get all sorts of problems. I would say that 30% of the length is the absolute maximum.

Note that some controllers already have a blob of solder from the factory, in which case you solder 20% of the remaining shunt.

When you apply the solder, leave the soldering iron on the shunt for a long time after adding the solder to make sure it's properly fused. Be careful that the solder doesn't run down the leg through the PCB to form a big blob on the other side, and don't let it drip on the PCB.

You can normally access the shunt just by removing the end-plate on the opposite end of the controller to the wires - no need to disconnect anything.

 

[minexplorer]

Thanks for the reply's, I do have a throttle and PAS, how much solder? and does any one have a good guide?

I checked some youtube videos but thy just put loads on.

Whats the chance I damage the controller or motor?

A thin coat of solder on one leg of the shunt,not too much,a quarter of the shunt.this will raise the max amps by 4 or 5amps. you DONT want to go over 20amps. the smallest controllers should all take that. i bought a spare small 250w kt controller and thats factory rated 20amps .do you have a watt meter or a display that shows watts/amps ?