Xiongda YTW-06 has arrived

[Deleted member 4366]

How about removing the granny cog to make room for the original PAS disc ?

He's got a hollowtech crank, so space is the same whichever side you put it. He can can get more space by chucking the spacers that are behind the bearing holders.

 

[Woosh]

You seem to be under some misconception. The disc does not rely on friction on the axle turning it. It's clamped with a pretty fair force between the pedal arm and the bearing. There's no way for mud to get in. Even if it could, it wouldn't affect the axial clamping force other than to increase it.

we argue about nothing. I have fixed a few pedal sensors myself and so do you. If anyone find a good way to fit successfully PAS to hollowtech BB please post your pictures.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

we argue about nothing. I have fixed a few pedal sensors myself and so do you. If anyone find a good way to fit successfully PAS to hollowtech BB please post your pictures.

Have a look at post #8 in this thread.

 

[Woosh]

Have a look at post #8 in this thread.

and I have removed a couple of them installed on the left side of hollowtech (I also have a Hollowtech BB on my Specialized test bike, so I tried) because a) even after removing the spacer, there is still not enough clearance to install a 9 magnet or 12 magnet disc and b) it is difficult to fit the crank back just right so that the disc is not clamped rigid against the bearing and can't move. Another time, it stopped moving because of mud.
Until I started with my printed solutions, I told customers with Hollowtech BB to remove the smallest ring to make room for the magnet disc. Nowadays, I supply the disc pre-drilled with a 45mm hole and a printed adapter to mount the sensor head to the seat tube and leave the BB alone untouched.

this is the old way:
https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/standard-pas-scheibe-an-hollowtech-2-kurbel-basteln.27307/

 

[Jonah]

How about removing the granny cog to make room for the original PAS disc ?

Do you notice any delay in the motor start powering up when you starting pedalling, or also any delay with the throttle startup when you had the throttle connected?

Didn’t notice a delay when the throttle was fitted. There is a slight delay when starting off with PAS but it doesn’t bother me greatly. More important (for me) is the instant cut off when you stop pedalling.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

so I tried) because a) even after removing the spacer, there is still not enough clearance to install a 9 magnet or 12 magnet disc and b) it is difficult to fit the crank back just right so that the disc is not clamped rigid against the bearing and can't move. Another time, it stopped moving because of mud.

So, you didn't clamp it against the bearing. That's why it came loose, mud got in and there wasn't enough room for it. It should be jammed up against the bearing, which sticks out proud of the holder.

If there's not enough room for it, how is it installed on my bike in the photo above? I have them installed like that on three different bikes.

 

[Woosh]

it was 3 (may be 4?) years ago when we fitted the front Xiongda XD to my Specialized. I had the PAS on the left side for a while before it started to misbehave. I then removed the smallest chain ring and fit the magnet disc there where it still is. Xiongda sent me another wheel about 6 months later when the first one began to lock up on reversing the bike.

 

[harrys]

Good looking conversion, Jonah. I assume there is a battery in the bag under the controller, and wondered what it looks like.

 

[Jonah]

Good looking conversion, Jonah. I assume there is a battery in the bag under the controller, and wondered what it looks like.

That’s right. It’s this soft pack one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENERpower-Softpack-Akku-Li-Ion-36V-10S5P-35E-17-2Ah-Pedelec-eBike-Umbausatz-10x5-/253381578901?hash=item3afeb81095

 

[Nealh]

P1 may need playing with depending on the hubs internal gear ratio and magnets inside.
Awol & d8veh both have the small YTW06 so may know a suitable figure that works for them.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

P1 may need playing with depending on the hubs internal gear ratio and magnets inside.
Awol & d8veh both have the small YTW06 so may know a suitable figure that works for them.

We have crappy LiShui controllers!

 

[Nealh]

The P1 setting appears near correct, the gear ratio of the YTW06 is 17:5 x 8 magnets = 140.

 

[Jonah]

The P1 setting appears near correct, the gear ratio of the YTW06 is 17:5 x 8 magnets = 140.

But I am only using 4 magnets. Should I change it to 70?

 

[anotherkiwi]

No P1 are the magnets inside the motor.

The magnets in the PAS is defined by the C1 setting, I think that might be your issue. In your case it should probably be set to 02 for the lowest sensitivity. When I switched from an 8 magnet disk to a 12 magnet one the difference in smoothness was night and day...

You might set P5 to "0" so that you have "real time voltage" displayed. Just for convenience.

 

[Nealh]

8 magnets is the magnet count inside the hub motor.

For C settings once you have gone thru the P settings, press 1 & 3 together again to for the advanced C settings, before making any changes write down the 12 - 14 different settings shown on the lcd. Like the P settings toggle thru all 12 or 14 one after the other, once finished just exit as previously.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Don't change any of the P settings. They're correct. The only one that effects the speed reading is P2, which should be set to 1, though very occasionally, it'll work on P2=0 if it doesn't work on P2=1 properly. In theory it will take the speed signal from the motor hall sensors when set to zero, but that will mean that the speed goes to zero when free-wheeling, though I have known those settings to be the other way round.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Don't you like the real time voltage reading (P5=0)? I find it very practical especially for battery sag.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Don't you like the real time voltage reading (P5=0)? I find it very practical especially for battery sag.

No. I prefer it to work as a fuel gauge, for which you need the damping.

 

[Jonah]

8 magnets is the magnet count inside the hub motor.

For C settings once you have gone thru the P settings, press 1 & 3 together again to for the advanced C settings, before making any changes write down the 12 - 14 different settings shown on the lcd. Like the P settings toggle thru all 12 or 14 one after the other, once finished just exit as previously.

My C settings are:

C1 is 02
C2 is 0
C3 is 8
C4 is 0
C5 is 10
C6 is 3
C7 is 0
C8 is 0
C9 is 0
C10 is n
C11 is 0
C12 is 4
C13 is 0
C14 is 2

 

[Nealh]

Everything looks ok, have fiddle with C1 and try all settings 00 - 07 but think if 00 or 01 setting doesn't improve it, then you may need to fit a proper 5, 10 or 12 pole disc.
When I had an issue with PAS I believe it was due to magnet count or pulses counted. My C1 was set to 02 using a 10 pole disc so changed C1 to 01 and problem instantly sorted.