Yose Power 350w 36v rear cassette kit with their 36v 10ah bottle battery £386

Dali

Pedelecer
Sep 21, 2020
63
12
My first ebike kit project is done and I am pleased. However it is a learning experience and in my very short experience with it I have learned a couple of things I wish I had known before.

To new kit builders... learn about C rate! My battery is 10A power output and realistically only 15A max (see below for reasons). It says max 20A but only for 30 seconds apparently so not useful at all. This is fine though as 15A takes me up the local hills just fine with some easy pedal assist. I am 17 stone and neither the battery nor the motor became hot to the touch. In fact the motor was just luke warm after 10 miles. I went with a bottle battery for stealth (quick glance with your eyes crossed it could be a water bottle) and lightness as I wouldn't be going more than 10 or 15 miles. The cradle is annoying, though, as it has no connector so the battery is wired directly to the controller. To charge the battery either do it in situ (safer) or disconnect two bullet connectors to take it into the house. It is just a bit irritating that if I wanted to take the battery into a shop with me I would have to do this too and have to be careful with the wires dangling from it. Very poor design.

My Yose Power kit came with a controller which says 9A / 18A max and is the C500 display option (according to the instructions) and has 'Yose Power' written on it. I have read this may be made by Lishui. It has several settings for throttle (default is full control up to the max speed set), max speed, PAS sensitivity and max amps. I have no idea what the PAS sensitivity does, but it can be set between 2-63. Anyone know what this is? Max amps is set to 13A by default and Yose power advised 15A is fine for minutes in one reply I received and 17A is just fine in another. I have settled on 15A as when I set it to 16A the speed display showed 0mph - 3mph no matter what speed I briefly did. Eeek.

The controller is a speed controller type which is a bit odd as it takes you to a set speed before 'backing off'. It worked just fine with just the throttle fitted (to test it). It was fun to ride at level 3 (5 levels) but once or twice there was a bizarre 'drag' when I stopped pedalling. I don't understand what was happening here.

My bike has hydraulic brakes so I have ordered separate plug in cut offs for only a tenner and discarded the cable brake levers that came with the kit.

Like car speedos the displayed speed is a little over 2mph out. Not a problem in a car but if attempting to partially abide by the law then I am really only doing 13mph assisted which is just silly. When I was a teenager I used to ride around at 30mph on the flat. I don't know how to tweak this as wheel size can only be adjusted to 26" 28" etc.

Speaking of legality, I would have chosen a 250w motor but living in a hilly area and being 6'6" 17 stone I felt the extra 100w was necessary. As it turns out battery and controller is more important but too late now. (Open to corrections.)

I had to cut the pas sensor hole a bit bigger to push fit on the pedal arm as there wasn't room between the pedal arm and frame.

Overall I am very happy and I like the fact that the kit came with all the tools needed as well as being very well packed and very fast delivery (sooner than predicted). If it lasts I have done well I think despite some small niggles.

38508
I will change the black cable ties for clear ones.. and remove my old cycle computer sensor!
 
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MontyPAS

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 16, 2020
390
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Welcome to the forum
Looks a very neat conversion
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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The drag you experienced is an illusion. It's the difference between the motor helping you and not.

Having a 350w motor gives you no extra power over a 250w one. The power comes from the battery and is regulated by the controller.If you want more power, you have to increase the current. If your controller is labelled 18 amps, it should be able to run at that comfortably. You can increase it as long as your battery doesn't complain. Even the worst batteries should be able to manage 18 amps.
 

Dali

Pedelecer
Sep 21, 2020
63
12
Welcome to the forum
Looks a very neat conversion
Thanks. I discarded the bag that came with the kit and just cut a hole in my saddle bag for the controller. Downside is it evicted my spare tube and tyre levers.
 

MontyPAS

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 16, 2020
390
148
Thanks. I discarded the bag that came with the kit and just cut a hole in my saddle bag for the controller. Downside is it evicted my spare tube and tyre levers.
No spare tube............ Risky o_O
 

Dali

Pedelecer
Sep 21, 2020
63
12
The drag you experienced is an illusion. It's the difference between the motor helping you and not.

If your controller is labelled 18 amps, it should be able to run at that comfortably. You can increase it as long as your battery doesn't complain. Even the worst batteries should be able to manage 18 amps.
No, definite drag as I used throttle only and cut the motor without this 'drag' effect.

I wonder why Yose power, in one of their replies anyway, told me 15A was the max and only for minutes? Being ultra-conservative I guess. I would love to run it at 18A, which would not even be 2C so as you say should be fine, but what do you think happened to the speed display? Yose wouldn't answer this part of my email:

"hi,
the 36v10ah battery can arrive 15ah when it discharge for a few minutes"
 
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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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No, definite drag as I used throttle only and cut the motor without this 'drag' effect.

I wonder why Yose power, in one of their replies anyway, told me 15A was the max and only for minutes? Being ultra-conservative I guess. I would love to run it at 18A, which would only be 2C so as you say should be fine, but what do you think happened to the speed display? Yose wouldn't answer this part of my email.
The speed display isn't in any way linked to the current, so it was probably coincidental. Is your motor connector in all the way to the line?

There is no drag because there is a one-way clutch in the motor, so it disengages when you stop pedalling. Spin the wheel by hand to see.
 

Dali

Pedelecer
Sep 21, 2020
63
12
Thanks vfr400, I will check the connection.

I know right? That was a huge factor in choosing a geared hub motor - freewheels when powered off. I don't understand it either. Someone else questioned this in another post but I can't remember what was said about it as I presumed he had a malfunction and took no notice. I will try and find it.

Does this mean anything to you (battery chemistry is magic to me) - 18650 Li-ion LiNiCoMnO2.
 
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vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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Thanks vfr400, I will check the connection.

I know right? That was a huge factor in choosing a geared hub motor - freewheels when powered off. I don't understand it either. Someone else questioned this in another post but I can't remember what was said about it as I presumed he had a malfunction and took no notice. I will try and find it.

Does this mean anything to you (battery chemistry is magic to me) - 18650 Li-ion LiNiCoMnO2.

Hope you are feeling better, I think I read a post where you were unwell.
That's a normal lithium battery. In nearly all cases of perceived drag, it's an illusion. Occasionally people have their wheel rubbing on something or their brakes not properly adjusted. In very rare cases, the clutch gets stuck on, but you can test that by rotating the wheel forward and backwards.

In the old days, there used to be arguments between the crank-drive riders and the hub-motors. The CD guys would try to spread the myth that hub-motors were no good because of the drag. I even showed them the video below of a hub-motor free-wheeling, but they said you only get the drag when you ride the bike.

If your motor connector wasn't in properly, it could conceivably make some drag, so please check that it's all the way home.

 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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They're just experiencing the illusion. The first guy is using a speed controller, so when he's riding on level 3, the motor is helping him to say 12mph with 250w and he feels that it's his pedalling that is keeping him at that speed, but he's only producing about 60w, which is nowhere near enough to keep that speed on his own. When he changes to level 2, the cut-off speed reduces to say 10 mph, so he's pedalling on his own with a 250w reduction in power, which feels like somebody has applied the brakes until he gets down to 10 mph, when the motor kicks back in and helps him again.

Though I say it's an illusion, he's actually experiencing real drag which is the normal air resistance and/or gravity. The illusion is that those resistances aren't present while you have the motor helping you.
 

Dali

Pedelecer
Sep 21, 2020
63
12
The speed display isn't in any way linked to the current, so it was probably coincidental. Is your motor connector in all the way to the line?
Checked the plug and it was pushed all the way in. Put it up to 17A (as I have an email from Yose saying this was okay - just to cover myself) and speed maxed out at 3mph (zero until full speed). Put it back down to 15A and now no change and maxing at 3mph (zero until full speed - which is set to 15.5 mph). Damn. Apart from the display everything works as it should and it is like it sees the correct speed but now no longer shows it.

There are three longer pins in the motor plug connection for some reason, is that normal do you think?

I disconnected and reconnected the display plug and harness plug too. no change :(
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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The three longer pin are also a bit thicker and are the phase wire contacts.
 

vfr400

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Are you saying that the motor only goes 3mph or that it spins up to full speed, but only shows 3mph on the display?
 

Dali

Pedelecer
Sep 21, 2020
63
12
Are you saying that the motor only goes 3mph or that it spins up to full speed, but only shows 3mph on the display?
Motor operates normally and propels me to correct real world speed, but speedo shows only 0-3mph no matter what speed I am doing. Distance travelled is in line with that too as it took several miles to show 1 mile travelled.
 
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Dali

Pedelecer
Sep 21, 2020
63
12
ysbattery-2012 (Yose Power on ebay) want to send me a new motor internal. I am not a bike engineer so not very happy this has happened (unless I caused this putting the power up to 16A, which is doubtful) and not very happy I have to first dismantle the kit and remove the cassette as they want the serial number and then, after they send a new motor, strip it down myself and replace it.

[section of comments removed by admin at the request of OP]
 
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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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The speed reading failure is likely an internal hub magnet issue ( probably a dislodged speed magnet or a faulty hall). It is neither here or there whether it works and personally I would simply fit a £7 wireless bike computer for a speed readout.

One buys cheap kits from Asia and has to expect the consequences of no proper local CS, sending a motor/kit back is very expensive as one hasn't the business power of an outlet with couriers. One can't except gold service form so far away and at a budget price. People bemoan the cost of UK based kits but to be honest the best seller I think by far is Woosh and they would have had your hub sorted without issue.

That said one can't complain to much as at least one isn't being blanked and left high and dry, Yose do respond and as best they can remedy the issue by supplying new parts. The hub is fairly easy to open and can be done quite quickly within a half hour, self repair gives one an insight for future simple repairs as sealed bearings or nylon gears can fail. In you case if they send a whole complete internal motor with clutch assembly etc, the old or new could be kept as spare should future failures occur. I personally would go with the £7 wireless bike computer for sheer simplicity.
 
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egroover

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Aug 12, 2016
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Do your arms ache reaching up that far ?;)
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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You don't need new motor internals to fix the speed reading. In fact, it won't help at all, as the magnet is in the hub, not the motor core. Your problem is almost certainly caused by an incorrect setting in the LCD, where you have set the speed sensor magnets to 6 instead of 1 ,so it's reading 1/6 of the speed.
 

Dali

Pedelecer
Sep 21, 2020
63
12
I take your point, Nealh, and putting up with that small fault would be fine if not brand new. Ebay is a marketplace for new goods as well as used, and the new goods are covered by law (difficult to enforce when seller is international of course but that's what Paypal is for). Having said that Yose Power answers my questions, mostly, and are prepared to put this right so I have no problem recommending them. Hopefully this fault is a one off or at least rare for their kits.

vfr400, it isn't an incorrect setting as not only isn't there one (I guess there might be a 'hidden' menu, but equally the C500 display might just be pre-programmed to work with this motor), but the fault is intermittent and I am not accidentally fat fingering changes in between it working and not working (even though my fingers are like bunches of bananas). Interesting idea though and people could easily fall into this trap and unfairly blame the vendor.

C500 display - https://cdn.shopifycdn.net/s/files/1/0378/5506/8295/files/C500_manual.pdf?v=1595234499