Yosepower battery cut out

[James Torr]

Hey folks, I've a issue with my Yosepower rear hub conversion. It's a fairly senior kit, but I'll try to keep it going as long as possible.

Over the past few months, the power seems to intermittently cut out. I can't turn it on directly, but if I lift the battery off and remount, it will switch back on fine. I might get a few minutes ride, or longer, then it just switches off. I've cleaned the contacts on the controller, tried to tighten those on the battery as well. I assume it's contact related, if the supply is interrupted, it just switches off.

Anybody had (and fixed) a similar experience to this?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

 

[saneagle]

Hey folks, I've a issue with my Yosepower rear hub conversion. It's a fairly senior kit, but I'll try to keep it going as long as possible.

Over the past few months, the power seems to intermittently cut out. I can't turn it on directly, but if I lift the battery off and remount, it will switch back on fine. I might get a few minutes ride, or longer, then it just switches off. I've cleaned the contacts on the controller, tried to tighten those on the battery as well. I assume it's contact related, if the supply is interrupted, it just switches off.

Anybody had (and fixed) a similar experience to this?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

If the LCD switches off, the power to it has been cut either by a connection fault or the battery's BMS shutting off. If it happens when the battery is fully charged and your LCD shows maximum bars at the time of shut-off, it probably a connection fault. If it only happens when the battery is run down a bit and you see the bars going down immediately prior to shut-off, it's probably the BMS. Once you've established which of the two situations apply, the cause will be easier to find.

 

[James Torr]

I'll check, but I'm pretty sure it's happening regardless of the charge status, I've never seen the bars going down prior to shut off. Just happens quite randomly.

 

[saneagle]

I'll check, but I'm pretty sure it's happening regardless of the charge status, I've never seen the bars going down prior to shut off. Just happens quite randomly.

You need to look. You don't see if you don't look.

 

[James Torr]

Well, road safety and all that mate, you can't constantly watch the display while riding

 

[James Torr]

I've got a mate with the same kit, I'll check to see if his battery does the same thing, that should tell me if it's the BMS or not.

 

[saneagle]

I've got a mate with the same kit, I'll check to see if his battery does the same thing, that should tell me if it's the BMS or not.

OK, do your own thing then. I'm only trying to help you get to a quick solution.

 

[James Torr]

I appreciate you trying to help of course, and I'll look out for the BMS diagnosis pointer you mentioned, which was of course, a given after you suggested the first time round.

 

[Nealh]

How senior is the kit ?
Likey a shagged out battery possibly.
One reason why the BMS cut's out , the cells maybe hitting LVC to easily.

 

[thelarkbox]

The Hailong battery and its mount on my 2nd bike have both been through the wars with sun warped plastic and some of the securing lugs have snapped off on a very bumpy rd/track the battery can jump out of position momentarily disconnecting itself.

Strapping the battery down with a cable tie sorts it. dont overtighten the cable tie, that way it can be slipped on/off to remove the battery as required..

 

[James Torr]

How senior is the kit ?
Likey a shagged out battery possibly.
One reason why the BMS cut's out , the cells maybe hitting LVC to easily.

The battery is coming up to 7 (!) years old now... So pretty senior.

 

[James Torr]

The Hailong battery and its mount on my 2nd bike have both been through the wars with sun warped plastic and some of the securing lugs have snapped off on a very bumpy rd/track the battery can jump out of position momentarily disconnecting itself.

Strapping the battery down with a cable tie sorts it. dont overtighten the cable tie, that way it can be slipped on/off to remove the battery as required..

All of my lugs have come off over the years, I ended up putting some metal replacements on - screwing them to the sides. I'll try tightening them up as well. The cable to the motor is a bit frayed in places (especially the gland going into the motor). That may have just got worse over time.

I'm going to move the battery + mount onto a similar bike to see if the issues persists. If it does, then it's a controller/battery issue of course. The controller was replaced a few years ago.

 

[James Torr]

If it's the BMS, then I guess that's end of life for the battery? I reckon I must have done 2000-2500 miles on it.

 

[Nealh]

At seven years the battery cells are likely a bit saggy now , one has to watch carefully the battery bar indicator or voltage readout if one has one.
When riding see how many bars the reading goes down when aload is applied .

 

[thelarkbox]

All of my lugs have come off over the years, I ended up putting some metal replacements on - screwing them to the sides. I'll try tightening them up as well. The cable to the motor is a bit frayed in places (especially the gland going into the motor). That may have just got worse over time.

I'm going to move the battery + mount onto a similar bike to see if the issues persists. If it does, then it's a controller/battery issue of course. The controller was replaced a few years ago.

The cable tie was the second phase of my 'fix' initially I swapped the battery/base connectors from spade type to the round pin type.

The thinking being the encapsulated male prongs would be held captive, then the battery backside jumped out over a bump and the thing fell off anyway..

I later learnt the round pins are thinner metal and are more prone to pops and spark damage if connected without isolating the battery output, like the battery in question, no on/off switch requiring a further mod of an antispark xt90 circuit breaker inserted in the main ground wire between battery and controller. 1 yr on fingers crossed..

Any chance of a photo of your replacement lug solution and a brief how to?? while im content with my fix for now, im not picturing your set up clearly and I am simply curious.

btw there is a dead thread in here on my attempts to retrofit an isolation switch using solderpads labelled s/w on the bms And even interrupting different balance wires attempting to raise a bms power off state as a side effect. - no dice..

 

[James Torr]

@thelarkbox, it's a bit hacky, but here it is. Self tapping screws and some spacers (though really short screws would work!). The metal flaps are just brackets, bent over and angle ground to the right size. The battery is quite scuffed up, but as someone commented, it's a senior.