Yosepower hub kits.

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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Ok sorry to jump in here am rereading this thread as I am awaiting a yosepower 36v 350 hub and bits to build batteries, saw this from
................my question at tbe end...................
Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer


Jan 4, 2018
Hall sensor wiring 8 or 9 /wires = sinewave
No hall sensor 3 wires only = square wave.

Both controllers are hall sensor & sine wave both give quieter smother operation the only difference is 15a one is for 36v though can be used up to 12s with max 4.15v max cell charge to be on the safe side 4.1v, it has waterproof easy fit wiring.
17a version is a dual voltage model so can be used with 36 or 48v even to the point of using trying up to 15s to a point if so wished.

If the requirement is to use 36v and in need of a few more amps/watts then a simple shunt mod on the 15a controller can increase power output by another 25 or 30% if required.

................MY QUESTION IS ............
What if Ibuilt a 12s (or 11s or13s ) Battery what would that do to the whole setup, just throwing this in here as I am also new to lithium batteries, though a friend has more experience, maybe its not even possible or worthwile??, ok back to rereading 3rd time around
thanks in advance
In battery terms 11s is a non starter if you want to use a bms, 12s makes sense both bms and chargers for 43.2v nom are available.
 

tunznath

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Sep 20, 2019
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not going to use a BMS, will charge with a hobby charger that will do balancing, there are 11s BMS available though, but thank you vfr400 for the info about controllers not working well with internediate voltages. will first do it right before playing, was thinking out aloud
 

Nealh

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AK's KT seems to work well with 12s.
 
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tunznath

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Sep 20, 2019
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Hi , like the answer because it seems helpful but I dont understand AK and KT(kt is a controller?)☺sorry new to this and all the abreviations
 

Nealh

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AK is short for forum user 'Anotherkiwi' who lives in France.
KT is for ' Kuenteng 'electronics ' who make controllers/kits, one of the most widely source able bits of kit on the market. They are very good and make controllers in varying sizes with various functions, can be bought with older style wire connectors or Julet waterproof ones.
 
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anotherkiwi

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Jan 26, 2015
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I heard my name...

I still use 12S because I have a couple of balance chargers on hand but my battery is now 2x6S Li-Ion connected in series. I wanted 12S to reach a certain RPM to prevent back EMF problems I was having.

After some testing I think 13 or 14S and a new 48v controller is probably on the cards. I will probably buy or maybe build a couple of 7S batteries with BMS and chargers. That way I will have 2 x 13S (7 + 6) batteries, handy when I need the two bikes and when want to go far. 14S 48v is ideal for pushing the trike along at between 45 and 50 kph...
 

PC2017

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What ever did happen to d8veh? I was just looking back at some old posts and it crossed my mind!
 

Olleman

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Jan 7, 2019
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A while back I asked about the spacers for the rear hub and if they should be on the outside or inside of the frame. The reason I asked was that after leaving them on the outside all vibrations in from the hub motor disappeared.

Now, after having done another 300 miles I've noticed that this wasn't because of the spacers but rather my new 17A controller that Yose sent me as a replacement. The hub is more or less 100% vibration free and it's a big differene in both feel and sound.
 
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PC2017

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but rather my new 17A controller that Yose sent
That's how I feel about the after market dolphin mount controller I purchased, I still think the YOSE controller was not the best controller for a 350w system and as mentioned it did however work perfectly on my 250w front hub. Hopefully someone will post on here in the near future after buying a new kit and we can see if they change the controller supplied.
 

PC2017

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tunznath

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Sep 20, 2019
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Hi Yes Yosepower 350w 36v Rear hub in silver, ( black was not available) , to be used with a custom built battery, plans are to consruct a battery controller box from Epoxy ply, that fits in the triangle. Cant wait till it arrives
 

PC2017

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Sep 19, 2017
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in silver
Same as mine, I really must update my picy - they use to only ship black on the 350w if you purchase a full kit with a YOSE battery.
 

Joeyp1

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 21, 2019
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Hi all,

New here, I've read most of this thread. Fantastic stuff. I've just received my yose 350w hub kit. Now I'm wondering about getting the kt 36v 22a controller and a good battery.

Based in the UK. I'd like a rear racked quality battery, but struggling to find one. Any recommendations? I guess ideally it needs 25-30A continuous if I were to run at 22A?

Thanks for any help
 

PC2017

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Hi Joeyp1 - welcome - although on the KT-LCD3 amp draw can be limited it might be worth looking at 48V, even with a good continuous output 22a is a lot and I would only recommended very short bursts at full pelt. There is one person on here who did replace their controller with a 22a (i think) but they might have been using a 48v kit.
 

Joeyp1

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 21, 2019
12
2
Hi Joeyp1 - welcome - although on the KT-LCD3 amp draw can be limited it might be worth looking at 48V, even with a good continuous output 22a is a lot and I would only recommended very short bursts at full pelt. There is one person on here who did replace their controller with a 22a (i think) but they might have been using a 48v kit.
Makes sense. Thanks for the reply. I've just looked and I've got the 'new' 8/17A controller with the kit. Any recommendations on a battery to go with it so I can keep things at 36v? Ideally rear rack able.

Cheers
 

PC2017

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Sep 19, 2017
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'new' 8/17A controller with the kit
Maybe YOSE have realised the old 15 amp controller most of us got with our kit was not up to standard, do let us know if you have any vibration issues, also as you mentioned about reading this entire thread, I would recommend doing so, a lot of your future questions about LCD setting and such may have already been covered, failing that I believe the search on this forum is very good.

Ideally rear rack able.
I have not had any experience with rack batteries a part from in my initial research before I acquired my first kit and from what I can remember and from a quick search just now they are pricey, that said they are a bit cheaper than I remember. As with any battery purchase there is, unless you are willing to pay top whack an element of trust with the seller, if you buy a branded cell and they wrap it in layers of blue e-safe surround then without cutting that and re-wrapping you'll never know if the cell you ordered is in there not even accounting for fake branded cells however my scare mongering is worse case, read the specs fully twice over and if there is any inconstancy in the description then I would look elsewhere, I would also consider protecting your self via your payment option paypal i would consider to be a fair option or even better over £100 even if spend 1p of that purchase on a credit card and have any problems and you can complain to the Credit company if the battery seller ignores you, just google Section 75 laws [be aware that this protection hides in a grey area if you use your credit card via paypal or googlepay etc, it would be better to use the credit card direct.]

lastly the other thing about rack batteries is the RACK, make sure you have spare cash to purchase a quality one, gauged from reviews, as even some pricey batteries have been known to be supplied with cheap metal racks that can not handle the weight of the battery on the first pothole you fall into!

Sorry for the ramble, I serviced my brakes and chain yesterday hoping for a warmish ride today and its raining :( all day!