Yosepower hub kits.

quackstar84

Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
132
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I have an 48v 20ah battery and the volts display at 54.4v. When i use motor i usually draw about 250 to 500watt. I was pulling 750 at one point but I've reduced it. What type of battery sag should i be getting? Im wondering if it's my battery. Thanks.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
6,185
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Basildon
I have an 48v 20ah battery and the volts display at 54.4v. When i use motor i usually draw about 250 to 500watt. I was pulling 750 at one point but I've reduced it. What type of battery sag should i be getting? Im wondering if it's my battery. Thanks.
It depends which cells you have.
 

tunznath

Pedelecer
Sep 20, 2019
100
12
I have yet to see the cables for one of these. I ended up soldering some XT90 to the power out of all my controllers and hand crafting an extension cable, I do favour the julet connectors but only motor and 4to1. For future builds I am considering staying with KT, Julet but changing to Bafang branded motors, even though my YOSE 250w front on 48v is perfect for my needs and is still going well I will not go back to rear or YOSE again...
Do you have a prefered supplier, so you are not using rear motors , that means a bafang front? What are your thoughts or reasons for this?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,783
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West Sx RH
I can have a good guess at your issue.
Mosfets getting too hot and cutting out/thermal cut out let the controller cool and back on again, next time it happens try and touch the controller it will be hotter then a hot spud.
High assist & to low a speed up hill ?
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
628
78
Scunthorpe
Do you have a prefered supplier, so you are not using rear motors
Quick answer - I don't have a supplier this is a future plan based on a conversation with a Bafang front hub seller on Aliex when trying to find a bafang code 12 rpm 250- and the reason I will avoid rear hubs is because I have had more success with front conversions, the weight of my modest battery and me on a rear hub caused to much vibration and cracked the wheel at the rim. I also live in a hilly area.

I guess there is an element of personal preference involved as well.
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
628
78
Scunthorpe
Ive attached a photo of my controller.
I had issues with this controller on my 36v batteries, I had several instances with LVC cut out and huge voltage sag, however I never rigged it up when I got the 48v battery... If you have limited the amp draw and have a few spare quid I can recommend a 36/48v KT sinewave at 14a delivering 640+ watts on C5=10 if required, the only problem I had with this was over heating issues at 18 degrees ambient, however I did suffocate the heat sink, since removing it from cover it works fine, in the winter it did not mind been in a seat post bag.

Edit- went out today 32 degs on the LCD and the 14a controller cut out a few times even thought it was exposed - I was not expecting it to get that hot weather wise without a cool breeze, there was a breeze but it was extreme warm!
 
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Slomoman

Just Joined
Aug 3, 2020
1
0
Hi,
I have a 28" YOSE 36V 350W Rear Motor Kit for Cassette with 36V12.5Ah Battery, the controller integrated in the Hailong battery holder. Bought about 3 weeks ago, from Germany ware house.

Yose was already so kind to send me a new connection cable, but the bike still does not read any speed on the display. I will describe the problem, maybe someone had the same and found out what the cause was. All usual cures are tried, any contact checked with a magnifier.
This is definitely no single fault, but common with the product, so maybe some one already knows it.
Why not a single case? I had another YOSE Kit, 26" rear, fitted to another bike but with another battery (36V/10Ah) and Lishu controller. It had exactly the same fault, in every detail.
(Only exception, the battery ordered separate, but also from YOSE had a clearly diagnosable defect. The parallel cell connections where unreliable, so on minor bumps the voltage dropped during a few seconds from 41 to 36 volts on bumps. The full current did not come from all cells, overloading the remaining ones. It could be restored by tapping on the case.)

OK, now precise fault description: When you start the display, anything seems fine. No fault code. The display even reads speed, for a second, if the wheel moves during the start up process. Also the throttle activated push assist works for a very short time. Then after maybe 5 seconds, the display shows zero (00.0) and none of the speed controlled function works. The throttle is use able as speed control for all power levels, but the low power push assist doesn´t work. The speed limit has no function, too. There is not distance or time measured. The speed limit is very important in the EU!
Another fault: When I cycle with constant speed, assist level 2 about 20 km/h (GPS) after about 1 minute the system switches off (battery fully charged, more than 40 V on display). When I restart it, while still moving, the display shows the actual speed for about a second, but then switches to 00.0 again. I´m pretty sure this is a software problem, directly after assembling the bike the speedometer worked for 2 km, it failed after I set the the speed limit to 25 km/h. I can verify this, as the display shows 2.0 km distance.
Maybe something in the set up is problematic and the displays software has a bug?
My first idea was the speed sensor, which is a Hall type in the hub. Magnet is in place and it works, even only during start up. As I had the same problem twice, I can rule out the controller, they are even different models.
It all boils down to the display, I tried 3 of them! All worked for a short time, until I programmed them.
Is there a reset process? I noted the works setting when I first connected it and tried them later, but nothing changed with the speed.
It seems it shuts down the speed signal, the moment the display reads the memory storing the individual setting. I consider the display is a small computer, starting up, running a diagnosis and then reading the programmed setting last.

What worries me most, the YOSE service people seem to know nothing about the product, they only want you to proof the fault, then you get a spare part. Not one of my question answered, they allwas have to ask someone... I even had to do a video for them.
In my world a service technician knows "his (or her)" product inside out. They have only this one product! Maybe the mentality is quite different from ours.

Anyone an idea?
Display is called "DASHI C500"
 

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Luke farr

Just Joined
Aug 19, 2018
3
0
40
Hi All. Sorry to trouble you. I have a yosepower hub kit that I have had on my MTB for a couple of years. I have just replaced the LCD-3 with an LCD-4 as I wanted something more subtle. Am very pleased with the change. However, since replacing my throttle speed is linked to my PAS mode. So if i am on PAS 1 my throttle will not go full power. If I am on PAS 5 my throttle will use to the max. Does anyone understand what setting may need changing on the controller?
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
628
78
Scunthorpe
I have just replaced the LCD-3 with an LCD-4
Oh I was looking at these a while back, dinky little thing, a very quick google does not find the advanced manual, try the KT LCD3 manual settings should work in the same way (assuming).
look at P4 and C4 EDIT - power up your LCD3 and check the fore mentioned settings and recreate them if the same settings process works on the LCD4

 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
6,185
2,269
Basildon
Setting custom parameter C4 to '3' should solve your issue.
That setting only decides whether you can use the throttle or not when you have PAS level zero. The setting that makes the throttle the same speed as the PAS is P3. P3=1 sets the controller to current control with no speed limit in each PAS level. At P3=0, you get speed control, where there is a different speed limit for each PAS level.
 

danielrlee

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 27, 2012
1,282
660
Westbury, Wiltshire
torquetech.co.uk
That setting only decides whether you can use the throttle or not when you have PAS level zero. The setting that makes the throttle the same speed as the PAS is P3. P3=1 sets the controller to current control with no speed limit in each PAS level. At P3=0, you get speed control, where there is a different speed limit for each PAS level.
Are you sure? I think you should re-read the question (post 1567). I stand by my original answer which will give full speed throttle, regardless of the PAS level.

FYI, the setting that limits the throttle to the currently selected PAS level is C4=4.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
6,185
2,269
Basildon
Are you sure? I think you should re-read the question (post 1567). I stand by my original answer which will give full speed throttle, regardless of the PAS level.

FYI, the setting that limits the throttle to the currently selected PAS level is C4=4.
I'm sure, though there are many different software versions. In this manual, there is no C4=4!

37775
 
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danielrlee

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 27, 2012
1,282
660
Westbury, Wiltshire
torquetech.co.uk

danielrlee

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 27, 2012
1,282
660
Westbury, Wiltshire
torquetech.co.uk
Where is that screenshot taken from? It's certainly not the standard KT-LCD4 firmware implementation. All the units I've seen and stocked follow the usual KT custom parameter schema.

Have you seen the user manual I posted? It differs greatly from your screenshots, with P3 defining PAS as current or speed control as it usually does.

I guess we'll only know for sure when the OP replies.
 

quackstar84

Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
132
3
36
I can have a good guess at your issue.
Mosfets getting too hot and cutting out/thermal cut out let the controller cool and back on again, next time it happens try and touch the controller it will be hotter then a hot spud.
High assist & to low a speed up hill ?
It worked fine today which was a cool one. So i checked the temp of my controller with my hand and it was warm. Im going to take it out of the bag now and see how that goes. Thank you!
 

quackstar84

Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
132
3
36
I had issues with this controller on my 36v batteries, I had several instances with LVC cut out and huge voltage sag, however I never rigged it up when I got the 48v battery... If you have limited the amp draw and have a few spare quid I can recommend a 36/48v KT sinewave at 14a delivering 640+ watts on C5=10 if required, the only problem I had with this was over heating issues at 18 degrees ambient, however I did suffocate the heat sink, since removing it from cover it works fine, in the winter it did not mind been in a seat post bag.

Edit- went out today 32 degs on the LCD and the 14a controller cut out a few times even thought it was exposed - I was not expecting it to get that hot weather wise without a cool breeze, there was a breeze but it was extreme warm!
Yes Nealh mentioned an issues with temperature. Ill see if i have a cpu heatsink and remove the fan. They mount it closest to the hot spot and have that in the wind. Maybe open both sides to allow air directly in when it's not raining? Cheers
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,783
4,560
57
West Sx RH
My 6 fet 20a model I wasn't able to touch as it was that hot, I had been in PAS 5 climbing a steep grass incline on the South Downs well off the beaten track. Initially I added a heat sink and a pairs of 5v fans in parallel with a separate power source and got a bot fed up with the extra charging, what I should have done was wire it direct to the controller pcb's Gnd and 5v source.
In the end I opted for amore simple 9 fet controller which has been great.

A winter job I will carry out the fan wiring mod to the 6 fet controller and can use it on my stalled current build of the Road Rat.