Yosepower hub kits.

PC2017

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wheeliepete

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Not really what I was expecting though, I thought it was going to be a julet version of the36/48v 20 amp 6 fet. Who wants to pump 30amps through their Yose hub?
 

anotherkiwi

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That is the one d8veh steered me away from in its non jullet form.

As one does, I just happen to have an open KT controller on the coffee table... :rolleyes:

The potting compound of very bad quality has come unstuck from the end plate and one can see why they are using the huge casing, most of the wires are soldered to the PCB at that end.

Best idea is cut existing plugs off and use shrink wrap and horribly expensive higo plugs to roll your own water resistant controller in the smaller size.
 

anotherkiwi

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PC2017

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Here is an interesting controller
This one is the reason I asked if they could do a fully enclosed controller, I knew it was going to be a beast when they first pitched the idea...

I did enquire at enerprof at the size specs of the HL rack but to no avail...
I might get this and the 48v HL and risk it if it does not fit, I'll seal it up as you suggest

Who wants to pump 30amps through their Yose hub?
Yep I thought the same ergo all my questions on LCD3 and reducing amp draw... In all fairness I did mention 48v @ 17-20amp I guess they only half listened... :oops:
 

Nealh

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Same size as the BMSB S12S certainly a monster controller and probably with reason.
As we know the dual voltage KT's are quite petit compared to the T/S12S, though one of my KT's suffers with thermal cut out and get's very warm as ambient temp rises. The larger case adds extra heat sink.
20a @48v I feel is plenty for the small Yose and expect like the Q100 damage will likely occur with more amps, with lcd3 the 30 amps can be watered down to 20a if you have the firmware version that does it by % terms. My lcd3 isn't and only allows max 5a decrease.
Cost using China post $50.
 
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PC2017

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firmware version
How can you tell the firmware? If my manual is correct and more importantly I actual understand this....

C5=4 [30/1.5=] 20 amp
C5=3 [30/2=]15 amp

Given the size of this controller do they make a box bigger enough to house it and is it practical for 20 inch frame MTB
 

Nealh

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I'm not sure now but think my lcd3 is v3 from 2016 or 17, I expect most newer models use the % mode. Firmware version is printed on the underside of the unit or printed on the top of the instruction leaflet.

BMSB sell one for $3 that might fit it or as always try Woosh bikes as they sometimes have oddments which are not on the main website. One thing with Woosh they won't bite your head off, make an enquiry and if they have something then most likely will sell to you if it suits your purpose and is available.
 
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Nealh

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Practical placement only apllies if your frame has somewhere suitable to secure it, if space allows.
 

PC2017

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Practical placement only apllies
I have emailed TBK for the specs and if they sell a box - I am so used to not seeing my controller I tend to forget about it...

I think I will change C5 setting on my current 36v setup to see if it actually reduces the amp draw as stated in the manual
 

PC2017

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My Dillenger LCD3 and Yose LCD3 are V3 but the Yose is limited to 15.4mph and I don't know how to remove the restriction... but the Dill LCD3 I believe is unrestricted, I might have to order another LCD if and when I buy the controller
 

wheeliepete

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the Yose is limited to 15.4mph
I'm sure it isn't locked, you need to change the max. speed, download the manual if you havn't got one. I'm afraid I can't see any advantage to having a huge 12 fet controller mounted on your bike. From what I can remember of your aims, get a large cased 48v HL battery and the larger 48v 22 amp intergrated controller from TBK.
 
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PC2017

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I'm sure it isn't locked,
Its strange, when the motors on the dill LCD it fades out at 17mph but the yose LCD cuts out dead... I know all the settings nearly inside out the max speed is set to 50kph and I have even checked and set all the other settings as they are on the dill LCD... anyway

I think Jimmy only wants to sell what's made I emailed them a while back with limited success and as said I am not keen on the tiger shark or jumbo shark case, its massive, I am not bothered about buying abroad, paypal is normally good with non receipt of goods etc or I might use the Mastercard with section 75 protection even the debit card now offers charge back in certain circumstances + I bet dollars to donuts if I purchase a battery from enerprof they'll be quite happy to talk specs + either way its gona cost - on the up side I might have a new job soon so more funds are finally possible, it would be nice to get a decent battery then get the rear 48v 350w yose kit save all this messing about but with the battery cost it'll have to be battery first temporary over volting then the yose kit end of next year early 2020!
 

egroover

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@egroover how do you find these deals? Do you watch "hotukdeals" every day? I would get insane to have a newsletter from them every day about this and that...
Yeah, have to confess I do love a good deal, as you've probably discovered in my thread posting history lol.
The new Yose Hailong LG celled 10.4ah 36v battery arrived today, on charge as we speak. Will feedback on performance tomorrow after the commute (up a big hill)
 

PC2017

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egroover

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Did you get to use the battery??
Hi, sorry about delay getting back, came down with cough/cold
Yes, am pleased with the new LG celled Hailong. Was a bit worried on the first ride, the battery arrived about half charged, so I charged it up to full overnight. Next day, used it on my commute, but it didn't seem to give as much maximum power to the motor (on the big uphill run ) as my other Hailong Yose battery, about 405w peak at the motor, compared to about 505w peak, so therefore felt a bit weaker.
I then went out the next day and rode it until it was flat. Charged up overnight to full, and now maxes out at about 480w on the big hill (all on assist level 5). It's still about 25w short of my other battery, I don't know if as that's 13ah compared to 10.4ah if that has any bearing on it ?
It does feel very strong, however, max power does drop to about a max peak of 430w (from a max 480w) at the motor when the battery has less than, say 30% remaining, I guess this is normal it drops down ? I need to compare with the other battery if that drops max power figure as the charge drops.
It's also quite a bit lighter than my 13ah, less cells I guess so to be expected
So for £141 delivered, with a charger (great to have a spare that works for both batteries), a great deal. I think it also highlights that the generic chinese celled 13ah Yosepower hailongs are great batteries too, and certainly a match for this new LG celled one. Hopefully longevity will be good on both
Cheers
 

Olleman

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That's really interesting and also good news regarding the Yose battery.
I'm leaning towards the Yose battery at this point. I'm following your advice and I'm checking hotukdeals every day to make that extra special deal :)
 
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PC2017

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, came down with cough/cold
Not good... I was only just saying the other day I don't think I had a cold all 2018, that said I do get a free flu jab I wonder if that helps;)

Some battery know it alls used to say run your battery till near 0% of low voltage cut off at low discharge rate not putting too much stain on it and then charge it again, then do the same for a few cycles over a few days. Now some would say this is not necessary with Li-ion.

I am glad your happy with your new battery and what a price!

Thanks for the update!
 
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Nealh

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If the battery has been sitting a while in a warehouse the Bms may have bled off one of the cell groups a little and when it was first fully charged by egroover it may not have balanced properly or one cell group may have reached full before the others hence why he may have got a few watts less. The fact it was ridden till flat, again may have evened out some voltage imbalance and it was restored on the next full charge.
Not all Bms act the same during charge/discharge as some actively work better then others, generally though a battery used regularly should remained balanced.

All this is supposition as the cell group voltages can't be determined in hard case packs as they don't have a sense wire feed to check without opening one up.
In this case it does show that the battery needed a discharge & charge for it to reach an equilibrium but doesn't mean it has been primed in any way, more likely just an imbalance that was easily corrected by the Bms.
 
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