handbaked

Sturmey archer 3spd IGH Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Here is my latest build. BBSHD with 14S7P battery. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I used to do this on my bmx. Many bmx riders don't have any brakes as it's a way to increase your flow when dirt jumping, park and street riding. Stops you from bottling it on the approach to a trick also. Not exactly ideal for a to b travelling though :-) Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Hi I still have a dead e-bike (after several months now). Partly due to no time, work and my first child(!) and secondly because it is my first e-bike set up and I'm still trying to work it all out! To re-iterate I have a Xiongda 2 speed motor, a Lishui 48v controller and C600 LCD. It was all working fine. I decided to rebuild the whole kit on a brand new frame/bike and then it stopped working ever since. I turn it on and the LCD flashes Error 9. I have been in contact with Bonnie at Xiongda and she has been as helpful as possible but I am still not getting to the conclusion of what the problem actually is. Initially she thought it might be the motor, she has even offered to pay the cost for me to return it to a german supplier, send me a new one from china and pay my wheelbuilder to rebuild the wheel! I really couldn't ask for more... other than clarification it is actually the motor at fault! She asked me to run all the tests found here: http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html I have done so and the tests for the 'blown mosfet test' and 'throttle test' are shown below: BLOWN MOSFET TEST: Green + Black = 1 Blue + Black = 1 Yellow + Black = 1 Green + Red = approx 700 Blue + Red = approx 700 Yellow + Red = approx 700 THROTTLE TEST: Black + Red = less than 0.5v DC Black + Blue = 0v DC From these tests does that indicate that the controller has issues?? If so, the obvious thing to do would be to change that first and see if that solves the problem. If that is what you guys would recommend do any of you have a spare controller suitable for my setup that I can buy and have posted to me asap? It has been far too long that this bike has been out of action. I have built a lovely bike that I know is going to be ace when working and its killing me not being able to use it for my commutes (almost literally!). Any help greatly appreciated. cheers, Tom

Unfortunately i don't have a hot air gun. I am going to make a tool to try and open it. How many km's have you done on your xiongda? And have you had problems?

I would be putting it in a 26" rim. Do you have one of those motors you have linked? The 48v 500w model sounds interesting. Any idea how that would compare to the xiongda?

Hi Has anyone got any experience of these motors: http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2011-1G-KSU5.3DNYT Seems like what i might be after. I currently have xiongda 350W 2 speed rear hub, Any idea how this would compare on my London commute? Cheers

Right, OK, I see. Didn't realise it would be quite that difficult. Every hurdle to this bike is a massive one!

I done what you said but no luck turning it. I managed to slightly bend the screw that came with it trying to lever with the spanner. I then put in a different much longer bolt and just totally bent that too. Hmmm....this is pretty tight!

I linked that endless sphere post but my question is do i remove all 3 screws and then put in any length bolt with a hex head on top or do i need to worry about the length of the bolt i put in?

What is the best way to open the motor?

Hi Anyone used this before? http://www.cobox-ebikes.com/290/wireless-bluetooth-cobox-watt-meter-36v-48v.html Looks very interesting indeed. Anything else like this on the market that i may not have come across? Cheers

So can anyone tell me what the weight is of just the motor (Or motor and rim)? It is a shame its not 48v as thats what my current set up is and im looking for a higher power motor than i can just swap out on my ebike frame.

Hi I bought a xiongda motor a few months back and after 750km it has stopped working. I am trying to determin why with Bonnie at Alibaba but currently getting pretty poor explanations from her as to how to open the motor as this is the next thing she has asked me to do. So far we seem to have elimated the problem being anything to do with the battery, controller or lcd. I have removed the freewheel (thanks d8veh for the tool!) But now faced with not quite knowing how is the best way to open the motors casing. I saw d8veh's thread here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=59369 but unsure as to whether you can screw in any size bolt as long as the correct diameter? I have been told it gets extra tight after the motor has been used so does anyone have advice of how to do it and what to watch out for? I thought i would update on here as to what the diagnosis is for the motor as people will no doubt be interested. Cheers.

Hi I have an old 12v 120ah deep cycle battery that has not been used in ages (over a year). Is it likely dead if currently at low voltage? Cheers.

Thanks trex. Building a custom battery is maybe the way forward then. Ideally im after 20ah+ 48v that will still fit within the triangle of the frame. Any suggestions/ideas?

Hi Is there a way to piggy bank 2 battery packs to help increase capacity and therefore journey lengths between charges? I have an eclipse 48v 11.6ah battery, 13 series 4 parallel. I was wondering if i could get say an extra 4-8 parallel pack and use ec3 splitters if necessary (?) To add some extra ah range. I ultimately would like to have 48v 20ah+ of energy but a) not have to buy another whole battery and b) be able to choose between the ranges by plugging/unplugging the extra bank. Any thoughts or knowledge greatly appreciated. Cheers

Hi Im having trouble finding a workable position for a magnet/reed switch braoe sensor for my hydraulic brakes so am looking at a diy option. Just looking at fitting a small micro switch. Would it be a push-to-make or push-to-break switch that is needed? Cheers

Unfortunately i live in South east London so all a bit far away. I wish there was an easier way to work out what's wrong. The fact it has an error code system where on code can be a problem with 3 things is kind of annoying! I'm waiting to hear from xiongda. I used to get replies within 18hrs but nothing yet. ..

I think realistically and ultimately that means me buying a new lcd and controller and then having spares of whatever was not at fault :-(

Wise words. I have gone for the non flashing 12v. Will post up some pics of the lights im modifying when done.

Ah damn. I didn't even consider this being a problem. That dc converter would do the trick but i can be waiting that ling for it as currently cycling in the dark with no lights in London and is not very fun. I think i will just contact the seller and ask for non-flashing so i cam stick to the plan of wiring in series. How is it best to tap into the 48v source? Make a y-cable to split off the battery connector? Or is there a more elegant option? Cheers

When you say the components do you mean spare lcd and controller? Do i need to be replacing those bits to work out whats wrong? Shame something has died so soon...

Well to confirm i went the sandpaper route. It took at least an hour with grade 40 paper to do just the bottom 1/4 of the tube but it has worked!

I have just found some 'super bright' 12v flashing leds cheap on ebay so have bought them. Intend on wiring 4 in series like suggested in an old cateye rear light. Thanks!