DynatechFan

thanks NealH, done endless multimeter checks but awkward to do as you say. No expert here but guessing it can only be cables, controller or "something inside" wheel issue - the controller was in a soft frame bag so wouldn't expect it to have received much shock, but I cant find any cable issues, and I dont know if there are in wheel sensors/stuff that would cause this behaviour Bit of a long shot, anyone one near Sheffield able to loan me a controller to swap in ?

okay, quick precis so you dont need the rest of the old thread Yose kit worked perfectly, was running without throttle but all the other sensors etc Bike fell over, hard impact onto concrete to left side - display pixels trashed, no assistance Swapped out display - no change Checked cables / connections multiple times cant find any issues Swapped out PAS - no change (it is a splined PAS, impossible to put on wrong) Added throttle and it (throttle) works as expected (more throttle = more power) but still no pedal assist. At least I know the motor works and assume its a sensor or cable problem still So - do I pull the wheel apart? Swap out controller (dont have one)? Or just give up looking and buy another Yose wheel kit and have lots of spare parts?

Still need help on this - been working away and not needed bike but thats about to change Replaced the screen and it now works. Replaced the pedal sensor also. But still zero assistance when pedalling - added the throttle and that works as expected Dont know if I need to pull the wheel apart (or replace) or if it might be a broken wire / damaged controller - or if there are parameter changes needed Thoughts?

thanks folks, just ordered the AliExpress item - seems the most likely solution here - fingers crossed, for lots of reasons; order worked? card details safe? customs let it through without gouging fees? had another look at the screen when I checked the connector I have matches the advert - lots of dead pixels, the temperature reports wrong and all sorts of little things not quite right in the display

assistance no longer works in the sense of no 200W at PAS3 - just get a handful of watts that dont change with PAS setting

thanks folks, couldnt figure why the display would be blank not showing zero The PAS seems fine, if I turn pedals in the workshop stand it does give a few W's. The buttons to adjust assist, disply items also works fine I am nr Sheffield (working Manchester currently) if anyone could help out with a loaner display, if not will get an LCD3 of t'internet - best place to find one if not Yose?

My Yose conversion has been working fine until this week when the bike got knocked over The display now no longer shows speed and assistance no longer works - BUT display doesnt show zero speed even when moving - it is blank where the speed should be, all the other data fileds seem fine, though one or two "pixels" are missing The bike fell over and the handlebars seem to take the brunt of the bash Not particularly technical when it comes to electrics like this, I have pulled all the cables apart and put back together. FWIW the kit as installed without throttle and the walk assist still works so what do I need ot do next? I am hoping it is the display, which I can swap out - if its the speed sensor in the wheel then thats a bigger deal (but why is it blank not zero?)

no batteries listed on current Decathlon site but I did find this, so prices look like they should be fairly sensible to me https://www.decathlon.co.uk/10ah-battery-id_8249039.html

bit if a newb question / comment but my understanding is the best way to build / rebuild capacity in a battery was to run it to 75% empty and recharge. Deep cycle discharging to empty is bad for batteries - no?

I had a Steps equipped Merida for a while, it was powerful enough for the hills in Yorkshire, though I am 80kg - if you are heavier your experience may be different. Because it was torque sensing (matches your effort) I found I had to work quite hard on the steeper hills - but it had excellent range. Local support is worth a lot, Deore is a good level of kit and Decathlon seem to have excellent warranty from threads I have seen on here FWIW My Merida had 385WaH battery and was definitely towards the bottom of the claimed range, so you might want to see what a second battery will cost you for 60km in hilly terrain

Carrera Model? Photos maybe?

I have a big heavy old pro mechanics stand (no idea of the make) but actually find these more useful / usable a lot of the time. About 1/2 metre tall fits in rear triangle, ideal for chucking in the car for days out or holidays, only a tenner at Wiggle. Can easily take the weight of an e-bike http://www.wigglestatic.com/product-media/100275206/X-Tools-Essential-Mini-Maintenance-Stand-Workstands-Black-XTEMMS-5.jpg?w=430&h=430&a=7

sorry for any confusion, yes its just plugs have tried bodging with the stuff I have (including similar plugs to link but not the same) and they are all too big, 12mm is proving tiny. Will have a rummage on ebay, if the expanding rubber bit is bodge-able should be able to make it work

Bit of an odd request, I am after some bar end plugs that will fit in to a thick walled handlebar - cant find anything skinny enough for sale anywhere, none of the (many) spares I have will fit. Bars are about 3mm wall thickness (!) and it looks to be about 12mm i.d. Not sure where the handlebar came from, its definitely bicycle but I do have a lot of boxes of bike parts from years of tinkering so heaven knows what bike it came off. Built my ebike up from bits in the garage and these bars were the strongest ones not in use. They did have "normal" rubber grips that wrap around the end of the bar, but just swapped to lock on style Ergos - super comfy - so right now the handlebar ends are open to the weather

Was chatting about running multiple chains to reduce maintenance in another thread, spotted today Chain Reaction (and Wiggle) have a really good deal on KMC 9 speed chains at £8ea right now: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/kmc-x9-93-9-speed-chain/rp-prod12756 Halfords have price matched if you prefer them I use KMC Z8 chains as my bikes are mostly older, very decent chain, bought a whole bunch of them off Wiggle for £4 ea last year, they are still only £6 at CRC now

not really in a position to comment on the bike choice, though I did have a Merida Steps equipped central drive bike for a while and liked it for what it was, have a home built rear hub drive now One comment on "manageable maintenance" - on my commuter I run 3 chains (actually just swapped in a new transmission last week after many years) and pull the chain out to clean after a hundred miles or so. Using KMC split links makes it so easy to get chains on/off. Cleaning chains "off bike" is very easy (I use Screwfix degreaser at £6 a gallon in aluminium Birdseye fish trays). Swapping chains regularly spreads the wear out, by the time 3 chains are tired the cassette is too. Given the smaller chainring on a centre drive that would probably be done too

thanks folks - doesn't sound quite as bad as I imagined it might be, the controler is marked as 11A so that makes sense The battery pack probably has about 100 cycles on it - which is my approx annual usage on this bike. My guess is it will last maybe 3 more years before I notice any issues - at which point I would be happy to pay for a better quality battery anyhow

a year ago I ended up adding a YosePower conversion kit and 10.4Ah bottle battery to one of my old MTBs to use it as an ebike/commuter - just spent the day doing a service, new chain/cassette etc and it still looks to be doing well And then I got curious about what I have (didn't really look when I bought it). Doing a bit more in depth research of what I bought it seems the battery has 26F cells - found the spec and they are rated at individually 5200mA But how do I know what a sensible Amp draw from the whole battery is? Presumably there are banks of parallel and series cells in there Mostly I use the kit at 150 to 200W but there are a couple of fierce hills on the way home that have me at 420W for a few minutes (according to the LCD3) - concerned that will be over cooking the cells

it is a pretty bent rim for sure - if you read the description they confirm 100% alignment though

Spotted this on ebay - it is a new bike with broken rear rim - just waiting for a hub conversion maybe? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cube-Nature-Touring-Bike-2018-50cm-700c-Small-Iridium-Blue/163311232269?hash=item26061ba50d:g:4ZoAAOSwb8VbwLYm

does beg the wider question, are manufacturers taking ebikes down the mid-drive route to lock folks in to their proprietary systems? Hub drive feels like Open Source tech, mid drive more like Apple

what Fat Rat says Had a £2k mid drive Merida and it was "okay". Got a mongrel rear hub drive I built myself from bits and it works perfectly for my needs - see no merit in mid drive at all myself, sorry

interesting stuff, thanks folks - its clear saddles are very personal things I guess my intent here was to highlight / explore saddles that work well for folks who might worry about Perineum/nerve damage and gents with Prostate concerns - there are saddles designed to help, like SMP, and others maybe just happen to be good at this (Lidl seem to be?) After a lifetime of cycling on "racing" saddles I now live with the consequences - be nice to help others avoid that

Not sure where else to post this - I am guessing that the demographic of e-bikes includes a fair %age of middle aged men like myself. I found a couple of years back that my bikes with the sporty saddles (Flite, Fizik etc) were getting less comfy than they used to be - went through a number of saddles before settling on Selle SMP which suit me perfectly https://www.sellesmp.com/en/saddles/tourism.html The SMP Well is quite firm, racy and a bit pricey for a commuter. The SMP Extra still fairly narrow (unlike TRK) but with a bit of padding and perfect for trips without shorts. Personally found the SMP TRK a bit wide for my liking but I know others like it What still amazes me is the number of folks who ask me about the saddles (because they look odd) and clearly don't know about them - so I thought I would post here in case they might help you - and maybe to even have a thread about this most overlooked of bike components Having tried similar cut away saddles like the various Specialized (too sporty) Selle Italia (classy but not so comfy) and Adamo (pricey and plain wierd) the SMPs were the best for me - obviously your mileage may vary, also interested to hear what else is out there

glad you are getting things sorted in my experience machine built wheels can be very variable in quality so worth checking from new When I have bought a ready built wheel I would re-tention and retrue myself - but I have just realised I never did that with my hub kit (?!?). The bike is getting pulled apart for a new cassette and chains next week so I will check it . . . also in my experience 36 spokes is plenty for a really strong wheel if its built properly. Decent rims are very strong also - an example - we have a proper off road tandem and I built the wheels around standard 36h Shimano hubs - no issues with spokes (touch wood) but even 200mm discs all round arent quite enough