jhruk

I have an Ezee rear motor, laced in a 26” rim, that’s been hanging in my garage for the last three years waiting for me to do something with it. If you’d be interested in it let me know and I’ll send you some details/photos.

Another option is to try walk mode by pressing and holding the down button. Motor should then rotate slowly if it’s working.

Have a look at this guy’s website and YouTube channel. He knows what he’s talking about and his reviews appear to be unbiased. https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/ https://www.youtube.com/user/errolprowse/videos

One more thing you could try. There is a possibility that your controller is configured to meet the EU standards so that the throttle will only work when the pas is engaged. If your 810 display has a 6kph ‘walk’ button, with the motor reconnected and power switched on, try holding this down and see if the motor turns. If the motor moves with this, but not the throttle, it’s most likely a controller configuration or throttle problem. If it doesn’t work you’re back where you started as this button may not be configured either.

What’s wrong with the Schwalbe AV/SV21F? https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/inner-tubes/schwalbe-av21f-fr-schrader-tube-275-tyres-54584-to-75584/ https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/inner-tubes/schwalbe-sv21f-fr-presta-tube-275-tyres-54584-to-75584/ I think they both have a removable valve core but you could always contact Schwalbe or SJS and check.

Most hub motors are designed to fit frames with drop-outs, so won’t fit a bike with the newer through axles, at least without heavy modification. I believe there are now motors available to fit these through axles, but I’ve no idea where to get them. Perhaps someone else can help. http://www.bike-eu.com/sales-trends/nieuws/2017/08/bafang-hub-motor-for-e-mtb-and-speed-e-bikes-10131126 A crank drive conversion will probably be easier.

Is this the bike you are talking about? http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/mountain-bikes/boardman-mountain-bike-pro-full-suspension-27-5-16-18-19-20-frames The website spec. for this bike claims it has a 12x142mm Bolt Through axle. If this is so it might cause you problems trying to fit a normal rear hub motor.

I think they fit direct drive motors as it permits a reverse gear. If you don’t need reverse drive a geared motor, as mentioned above, would be fine.

Excellent. I often buy those Duracell Industrial so will be interested in your findings.

The Consumers Association have tested various AA and AAA batteries and published fairly comprehensive reports in their Which magazine. You can read them online if you sign up but most libraries around here seem to keep copies in the reference section, which is where I read them. The latest report for AA size was in the December 2017 edition. AA and AAA sizes are in the December 2016 edition. Their ‘Best Buys’ ignored price so tended to favour the more expensive ones, which generally lasted a little longer, particularly with high drain devices. However, what I found most interesting was the ‘Cost per hour’. For medium drain devices this was 14p for the AAA Energizer Ultimate Lithium @ £1.75 per battery compared to only 1p for the Wilko Extra Long Life @ 12p per battery. So although the Wilko was the worst performing, lasting 2/3 the time of the Energizer, it was 14x cheaper. Going back to the original question, and going by the CA test results, I would expect the Lithium ones to possibly last a little longer, like for like, but those Duracell alkaline ones to be much cheaper overall. Why not buy some and compare them yourself?

There’s also the newer Heinzmann DD motor kits. I believe available from a few UK dealers, but rather pricey. http://www.kinetics-online.co.uk/electric-bikes/heinzmann-electric-bike-kits/

If, like most folders, this will be a one size fits all frame you need to offer as much adjustment for fit as possible. On the Birdy R&M offer a choice two angles plus adjustable height for the stem (handlepost), Brompton offer a choice of handlebars with different heights, and many cheaper folders have a telescopic stem. At the least you need to offer a telescopic stem option. It may add weight, cost, and arguably spoil the aesthetic, but would make it a better fit for a much larger range of customer.

Mine’s fine, but then I don’t see any ads. Try this: https://adblockplus.org/

Have you set C1 correctly? C1=6 works for me but 5 or 7 should also work according to the manual.

Nope, battery voltage was around 36.3V offload, 36V while testing.

That theory looks good for this motor, but not the Q100c which I also measured. The 328rpm 36V Q100c is more or less spot on spec, 327rpm at 36V with a KU65. I also measured the same Q100c with a S06S controller and it only manages 310rpm at 36V. This suggests that the controller is also a relevant factor in the specs for these motors.

Last year I purchased from BMSB a Q128c 48V 328rpm motor intending to run it at 36V, which I was expecting to be 246rpm. It was rather faster than that and although I initially calculated it at over 300rpm I’ve now measured it and found it to be actually 286rpm at 36V with a KU65 controller. This gives it a Kv of 7.94 instead of 6.83 which the specs suggest. Like d8veh I have learnt to take the specified rpm figures as nominal but agree with daniel that it is very misleading. Particularly as the figures quoted suggest precision, ie. 201 and 328.

I have very limited knowledge of this system but there is some technical info on Ben’s Kinetics website, including how to disable the half voltage check and pedal sensor: http://www.kinetics-online.co.uk/technical-info/heinzmann-technical-info/#more-315 http://www.kinetics-online.co.uk/technical-info/heinzmann-half-voltage/ http://www.kinetics-online.co.uk/technical-info/heinzmann-control-board/ The two thin motor wires are from a thermistor in the motor which tells the controller to reduce the current as the motor heats up. I’m not sure which way round this works but if the controller has connections for them why not connect them up. If it doesn’t then it should probably work ok without them.

Yes, I do know it's made by Humax. It's still much better than my older PVR-9300T, and usually cheaper than the Humax branded ones.

In April last year I bought a BT DTR-T2100 YouView box. I don’t have it connected to the internet and only use it as a PVR. It supports HD but not 4k. So far it’s been excellent, much better than my older Humax PVR. I believe these are supplied with some BT packages and there are many around on e-bay or Amazon, new, nearly new, or s/h, as they are often unwanted. I paid around £80 for a new one from a private seller on e-bay. If it packed up tomorrow I’d buy another one.

I think this model used to use the Sram Dual Drive system. Unfortunately it appears Sram is ceasing production of all hub gears, including the Dual Drive. http://www.bike-eu.com/sales-trends/nieuws/2017/2/sram-stops-remaining-internal-gear-hub-production-10129065 There was always a problem using it with crank drive motors anyway as the hub gear had limited torque capabilities and the motors often had to be de-rated to comply. It certainly wouldn’t cope with the latest high torque motors now available from Bosch, Yamaha, etc.

Interesting, I only tried it using throttle. Perhaps the PAS uses the computed speed. I’ll try it again using PAS tomorrow. Did you have P3 set for Speed or ‘Torque’ control?

The P1 setting. I’ve noticed several people trying to solve their rough running motor problems by changing the P1 setting on the LCD. Nobody seems to have suggested exactly what this setting does. I had a theory so I’ve carried out a few tests with my Q85 using an external rotation sensor and a separate speed ‘computer’ to check the LCD speed against. I tried a range of P1 settings from 50 up to 255 and detected no change in the running of the motor throughout the range. With P2 set to 1 and the rotation sensor enabled the LCD always showed the correct speed, irrespective of the P1 setting. With P2 set to 0 the speed was only indicated when the motor is on – it reverted to 0 on the overrun. The LCD speed varied (with respect to the correct speed) according to the P1 setting. Following the formula in the manual the correct setting for this motor is 202 and this is the setting that gave the correct speed readout. Below 202 the speed readout was too high and above this it was too low. With P1 set to 50 and P2 to 0 the speed limiter came into play and the motor would not exceed an indicated 72kph (actual speed 11mph at P1=50), which is the maximum speed you can set in the general settings. Interestingly when P2 was set to 1 no speed was displayed although the limiter still operated. My conclusion is that the P1 setting has nothing to do with the running of the motor but is solely to enable the LCD to determine road speed from motor speed when not using the rotation sensor. Another observation was that with P2 set to 1 and the rotation sensor disabled the display initially showed 0mph and then, after a while, started displaying the computed speed. Any other suggestions?

I’ve calculated my motor is about 310rpm at 36v, which is way above the 246rpm(328*0.75) I was expecting, although not quite 328rpm. Like you I was hoping for better hill climbing in exchange for speed. In use I find it ok but feel it would have been nicer with lower gearing. I also have a 260rpm Mxus and find them about equal for climbing with the same 17a controller.

I bought a 48v/328 Q128c from BMSB but found this also ran faster than I was expecting. It was correctly labelled but ran at a no load speed of around 29mph at 41v in a 700c wheel rather than the 22/23mph I was hoping for. This would suggest it's also a 36v/328 motor, the same as you received. Perhaps they only have one version and just stick different labels on them.