IanHurley

Firstly - I apoligise for upsetting a few of you with my first remark which was supposed to be humour Then It's generally not a good idea. As the chain wears, (stretches), the sprocket teeth wear to match it. All reversing does is bring a mismatch in the shapes so you get rapid wear until the two match again. It's like swapping your back unworn car tyres to the front when the fronts get a bit worn. The tyres wear to match the camber, which is different front to back, so after swapping, you get very rapid wear and you end up having to replace all 4 soon after instead of getting plenty more life out of the back ones if you'd left them alone. I am an older motorcyclist. Sprockets wear and if reversed can extend the mileage that they can be used for. The chain is not reversed - ok wording could have been better but it is a trick that will allow a sprocket when reversed to last longer , it was the front chainwheel / sproket that was reversed not the chain. So thank you all for your inputs, I'll try not to say anything outrageous again

Don't all speak at once! Okay - I seem to have cured it, everything taken off except the torque sensing cassette - everything cleaned thoroughly and lubricated with a cycle chain ptfe spray and reassembled. A short 5 mile test ride and the noise seems to have gone. It's been there since March with several chain cleans etc and didn't go away so why now? No idea

Thanks for the reply VFR400, I have probably mixed something up here - pedals are square taper and if you look at the left hand side it has a special tool fitting which to me looks about the same as the Octolink fitting. Its the bearings within this that there is a little play in

Proably a basic question but ... my chainwheel on my 905 torque has been making creaking sounds, the chain itself is fairly new so I took it off, cleaned it and examined the teeth which seemed to be ok. I put it back on but used an old biker trick of reversing it. Out on the road the clicking / creaking noise is exactly the same and does it when putting effort on the pedals at the same points of pedal rotation. There is a little play in the bottom bracket which looks to be one of the Octalink? types and obviously has the strain sensor in with it to sense load. I have never taken one of these apart before but having maintained all my cars, rebuilt write offs, looked after motorbikes and built 4 kit cars over the last 50 years can say I am fairly handy with mechanics. So, is this unit adjustable and how is it adjusted without causing issues to the load sensor?

Hmm - my 905 torque with the 575w battery goes up 1 in 3 hills with no problem and I am a lightweight 15 stone pensioner. Most hills I can get up with level 3 power and VERY rarely have to go to level 4 so I would say there is an issue with the bike as David suggests

My friend who recently bought a Yose rear hub motor asked them to confirm dimensions before purchase, they sent a PDF which confirmed 135mm but when it arrived it was several mm bigger and did not match the PDF in any way. Sorry Yose I think you are pulling the wool over purchasers eyes deliberately. Why they can't be honest about dimensions is beyond me. After many emails my friend was offered two options, £20 refund as compensation or return the item for a full refund. We made a jig to jack out the frame and did eventually make the Yose motor fit but Yose should be supplying the motor at the dimensions they say they do and not leave people to force the motor to fit. Would I recomend Yose to anyone? Absolutely not!

A friend of mine has just gone through this appaling problem with a Yose conversion. Their engineering drawings show 135mm but the spacing required is several mm more. We jacked the alloy frame apart and managed to fit the rear hub in and also managed to fit the disc with the anti rotation washers. Not impressed with Yose at all. It's only when the item arrives that you find it is not 135mm fitted but several mm more!

Thanks Phil for that - pads ordered

Thanks for the link JonathanM - Phil, if they do fit the 905 ok can you post and I'll get some for mine?

I also have a 905 torque but have the larger 575w battery. Its not unusual for me to go nearly 30 miles without dropping a bar but that doesn't mean it will do 120 miles as above its not linear and its not always the same either. Hills plus wind and it drops much quicker

I think the link should be ebikebatteries.co.uk

The battery I have is the 575w/h one, the biggest one is 700 w/h, the indicator bars don't really change at all except for an occasion where I am using max power up a steep hill for a fair distance where it will temporarly drop one bar for a short while. That doesn't happen very often where I live

I have the 905 Torque with the mid size battery. The display shows 4 'bars' or segments and has been pretty accurate it seems and bars drop as you would expect with distance travelled. Two bars come up at about 40 miles or so and I have only seen 1 bar a couple of times but that has appeared at 50 + something miles and then flashes on and off which grabs attention. No idea what my range is to flat as I have never been there since June when I bought the bike second hand with 500 miles on the clock. I usually use the first two power levels and live in North Norfolk so other parts of the country will give different ranges.

For me its flashing lights front and rear, the small cheap rechargable ones for about £10. They last ages and are not too bright but show the bikes position well at some distance. After many years as a motorcyclist and not being seen with a headlamp on all the time I don't want to hear the phrase "Sorry I didn't see you" again. At night I'll probably use the standard lights but in daytime its the flashers for me. Oh - if someone is susceptable to an epileptic fit due to a small flashing light then watch out for indicators, emergency vehicles breakdown vehicles etc as they have a much bigger output

Ooops - didn't spot May - and it's 2019, back to Specsavers for me I guess :-(