Peter.Bridge

thats brilliant - looks cool , will be very easy to upgrade / replace parts cheaply. How is the overrun on the motor - how long from when you stop pedalling to the motor cutting out ?

https://bmsbattery.com/motor/353-q100-36v250w-350w-rear-driving-ebike-electric-bicycle-hub-motor.html

This seems designed for what you want https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits#dwg22c-48v-kit 48V 17A controller, High Torque (Low Speed) Winding motor

I think that's the design of them, the way the pivot point works , one side has much more movement than the other, almost a bit like cable disk brakes, where one side doesn't move at all. Oh apparently not, they should be the same ! https://forums.bikeride.com/thread-3344.html

Any more news [mention=47066]Baloo666[/mention] ?

You can order some hydraulic brakes off Ali Express(with motor cut outs) and some decent tyres now !

I think they are gradually getting stricter. A mid drive conversion kit would allow you to derestrict, but have you seen the More Seizures" thread on this site !

On Ali express, if you click on the seller it gives you how long the store has been going, repeat buyers, how many items sold recently, etc

I quite like these as a hybrid solution, decent puncture resistance , ok for road / light off road, 4 season compound, good for freezing conditions https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/schwalbe-marathon-366-26-x-2.00-rigid-mtb-tyre/138926467/p

Let us know how it goes !

It's a possibility, but need to check the bottom bracket is "standard" threaded and nothing in the way. I know it sounds dramatic but I think it is dangerous to have a motor powered heavy bike with just drum brakes. I would change the front forks to some that properly support disc mounts (and are strong enough) and use a front motor and hydraulic disc front brake

I think one difficulty is the hub brakes, you could possibly convert to cantilever brakes, but that's not ideal for a heavy powered bike

Can you link to the one you bought? Sounds a good price The brakes probably will have "motor cut outs" so when you press the brakes the motor immediately cuts out. There are different possible connections so make sure you get the correct ones. These are the ones that I got. , they will probably be the correct connection but double check https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExJWCp2 Looks like £36 for front and rear brakes. I don't think you need the disc rotor, just use the exisring Lots of Chinese bikes come with the right lever connected to the rear brake and the left connected to the front. When I bought hydraulic brakes I swapped them round to right front / left rear (ie usual UK configuration) - so be careful to choose the desired configuration when you order Was very easy to fit, I used the existing caliper adapters that were on the bike and just fitted the calipers/hoses/levers that were all connected together when I bought it was pre-filled with oil

Somebody did that and fitted a front hub motor https://www.reddit.com/r/ukbike/s/MMbrd9uB5A (My reservation would be the brakes wouldn't be great and wear quickly on a big heavy bike being propelled by a motor) Maybe new forks with disc brakes mount ?

Hub brakes ? I think that would rule out a hub motor conversion. Possibly a mid motor conversion if it is a standard bottom bracket, but it would ruin the looks. I would say sell it and buy something easy to convert on facebook ! (but I do have a utilitarian streak, and I can see it is a lovely looking bike) something like this would be much easier to convert https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1669985031021700/

I have had a solitary puncture on one of my (level 7) marathon plus tyres

There's lots of member here with Bosch / Yamaha motors and are very pleased with them. A couple of other suggestions https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?gran-camino Or find a second hand MTB from Facebook marketplace and add a kit to convert (either convert yourself or get converted) Powerful 48v DWG22C 48V 250W rear hub kit https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits Tsdz8 mid drive kit https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?tsdz They won't look as polished as a Bosch / Yamaha bike but will be easy to service / repair yourself and replace/upgrade with generic standard components (eg batteries)

https://www.hewittcycles.co.uk/components/tyres-tubes/schwalbe-marathon-gt-dualguard-road-tyre--365-performance-e-bike__2321

I think they had double defence" Dualguard" level 6 protection when I bought them but other variants have level 5 " greenguard"

Yes, that is what I would expect. Even though the control panel showed fully charged, you obviously used some battery. When you connect it to the charger I suspect steady orange means charging. If you left it on for a couple of hours I would predict it will change to green "fully full" !

If you connect the charger for a few hours and switch the display on, does it show the battery full. Usually the light on the charger will turn green when the battery is full

Might be worth speaking to [mention=181]Wisper Bikes[/mention] and [mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] , especially if you are thinking of ordering a few

I know this isn't what you want to hear but it will almost certainly be cheaper to sell the bike and buy a bike with a 250w rating that doesn't need registering / insurance etc

As others have said the 350W motor has a higher no load, unrestricted speed than the 250W motor. The 250W motor is better up hills. With the 350W kit you get a rather more refined Lushi controller with 36V 18A max current. The 250W kit has a basic 36V 15A controller. Don't think this is anything to do with the motor, I'm sure the 250W motor would work fine and be slightly more powerful with the 36V 18A controller - I think someone here has done this - [mention=6777]Waspy[/mention] ?

But , as long as you have downloaded maps that cover the route, and when you enter the start and destination of the (cycle ) route you have data connectivity, you don't then need connectivity along the route. You can't enter a new cycle route if you are offline (but you could enter a car route, which may or may not be suitable for cycling)