D8veh

When you don't use a battery for a very long time, it will go out of balance. With only 800 miles, it's probably not worn out, so could probably be revived by re-balancing. You have to open it up to check the state of balance, and you can rebalance it quickly with the right equipment when it's open like that. The longer way to rebalance that works with some batteries and chargers is to leave it on charge for a long time after you get the green light, like I mentioned above. You have to do that several times for several hours each time to gradually bring it back to a balanced state. Did you try that yet? If not, do it and let us know if there's any improvement. If that doesn't work, can you show us a picture of the battery removed from the bike so that we can see which version it is. If you're lucky, you can get one quite cheap (£169) from Yose Power. I fixed a Wisper with one, but I'm not sure which model ebike it was.

You can probably run without a display. Like that, it'll work with a throttle and give a fixed level 1 pedal assist, assuming that it has a pedal sensor that worked before. To do that, you need to cut the connector off the old display, leaving about 2 or 3 inches of wire on the connector, strip back the insulation and join the red and blue wires. You can put a switch between those two wires to switch the controller on and off, which is what the LCD does. The red wire comes from the battery and the blue one powers the controller. Make sure that the battery is switched off and disconnected when you do that, and short out the pins on the battery receiver after removing the battery to discharge the capacitors in the controller. You might get a small spark when you do that, which means success. The reason you have to do that is because you'll short the red wire with battery voltage to the data wires when you cut the wire, which would damage the controller. With no charge in the capacitors and the battery off, it doesn't matter if you short them. Alternatively, if the LCD has a connector up near the handlebars, you can disconnect it and cut the wire between the connector and LCD.

Unfortunately, many dealers and bike shops don't have a clue how to diagnose and fix ebike problems. There are many different things that could cause the problem you have. To be sure, someone needs do do some electrical measurement. If you're not able to do that, tell us approximately where you live so that we might be able to recommend a repairer. If you can get it to Telford, I'll do the diagnosis for nothing and repair it for whatever any bits cost that are required to fix it. Other than that, one thing that you can try that doesn't cost anything is to leave it on charge for several hours after the green light has come on the charger. If that improves it a bit, do it again and again until your battery gives the full capacity again. It's best to have the battery outside if you do that. The risk is almost zero, but best to be safe. If there is no improvement, either your battery is worn out or you have a connection issue. perhaps you could tell us how much the battery has been used since it was first purchased.

I have thoughts, but not much experience. Magnet disc ones are very reliable and cheap. You can use them with any motor and most Chinese controllers. You need a special controller for any torque sensor. If the motor, sensor or controller has a problem, you have to replace with the same, so swapping components arount won't be an option unless you replace them all. A hot motor is not the best place for delicate components. There are different principals for how torque sensors work. It depends what type you have whether heat is a problem. When you have a torque sensor, the quality of the ride depends on the algorithms and software in the controller. You could have a lovely pedal assist function, but rubbish overall ride. You have to see if it suits your riding style.

My 20-20 vision isn't used much for reading, nor what comes out of a TV or computer. Instead, I use to to see what's actually in front of me. If you really had such an IQ, you'd be helping people on this forum solve their ebike problems, but you don't because you can't even understand how they work.

Maths not maths. Don't copy the ignorami, who can't get it right. Next you'll be saying "I'm good" instead of "I'm well". Good in that context means well-behaved, and well means in good health.

Easiest way is to solder the wires back together and heatshrink them -one sleeve on each wire and a bigger one over them all. Whatever you do, you'll need to follow the wire to the controller, where you can disconnect it. Even if you want to replace it, you'll need to find out which of the two connectors it has and which way round it is - male or female. To put photos in a post, you simply copy and paste the photo from where you can see it as a picture. Show a picture of your whole bike, the control panel on the handlebars and the connector on the pedal sensor if you want more help.

That's the chart increasing, not the temperature. You can get any temperature rise you want if you move the sensor from the middle of a field to an area surrounded by buildings. Even the encroachment of a road can affect the temperature substantially, even when you leave the sensor in the same place. Let's say you placed 100 sensors in random places around your town 100 years ago. How many of them now would be surrounded by concrete or tarmac? How many of them would be closer to those things than they were before, or put it the other way round - how many would remain the same distace or further away from those things? Use common sense and logic, not what AI tells you based on BBC narratives. In other words, that chart corresponds with the expansion of your town. Anyway, this is the equation for heat radiation, where T is the temperature: Q/t =sigma x e x AT^4 As temperature rises, the heat radiated by the planet increases at power of 4 function, so is self-regulating. That's physics, and it's been like that ever since Stefan Bolzman made it like that in 1879.

Correlation doesn't mean causation. There could be other factors that cause the fires more related to the type of people, who buys the product and what they do with, it rather than the product itself.

As a general rule, you need 5A of headroom on the BMS above what the controller allows, so 20A BMS for 15A controller, 25A BMS for 20A controller. The more amps the BMS gives, the better, but you have to bear in mind the current the cells can give. My rule for that is start with the max current each cell can give, multiply that by the number of cells in parallel, then divide that by two so that you don't stress the cells. Example: id you have cells that give a max current of 10A in a 48v 65 cell battery (13S5P), 10 x 5 x 1/2 = 25A maximum BMS.

They should transfer.

All I can do is wish the best for you. I've been through exactly the same with exactly the same symptoms, except that I have high PSA and the MRI scan confirmed my Prostate is enlarged to double the size. I've had the camera up my knob, which was very painful and bled for a week. A few weeks ago, I had the biobsy, or 16 biopsies to be precise, so my prostate has been cut to ribbons and I'm still pissing blood after three weeks. As always (with me), the result of the biobsy has come back as negative, so either I'm one of those rare cases where I have an unknown twin brother somewhere, who has the problem and no symptoms, and I have the symptoms but no problem, or they missed something somewhere. Anyway, we're still here alive and kicking.

It's not clear what help you want. If you want to sell it, you should tell us the price and location.

The most important thing is to get a motor that's the right speed for what you want. The best speed for a legal bike is about 230 rpm. If you have a lot of steep hills, 201 rpm would be better. Motors run 30% faster at 48v compared with 36v, so if the motor is already quite fast, say 260 rpm at 36v, it might be too fast to be efficient at 48v. The noise you experienced migh be commutation pulses, which you can feel at low speed with any motor that has a lowish internal reduction ratio. It's much worse when you have a square wave controller rather than sinewave. Commutation pulses feel like grinding gears, not to be confused with the graunching when the motor loses sync with the communation. If you ever get that graunching, you must stop immediately, as it will lead to the MOSFETs in the controller blowing after a short time. To avoid al that you need a motor with a high internal reduction ratio and a sine wave controller.

On the long BMS, there are two solid state shunts that are used to measure the current. They're probably in parallel, but you need to check in case one is connected to P- and the other C-. Whichever situation it is, you can reduce the resistance by say 20% to get 20% more current by soldering an additional one on top of one (in parallel) using the formula for total resistance when you have three resistors in parallel, assuming that the two present ones are in parallel. The values of the present ones will be written on them, probably 0.010 or 0.005 or ohms. 1/Rtotal = 1/R1 +1/R2 +1/R3

They can't help themselves, can they? The Earths axis has been wobbling since it was hit by the planet that created the moon. The wobble can change the length of the seasons slightly, but the only way an area can get a longer summer is if some equal sized area somewhere else on the planet gets a shorter one. Do you remember a few years back when every single country and ocean was warming up twice as fast as the rest of the world? Here's a reminder. A quick Google check shows Australia, America, South America, Arctic, Antarctic, Europe and Asia are all warming at twice the global average: https://news.un.org/en/story/2025/06/1164781 https://www.preventionweb.net/news/large-parts-europe-are-warming-twice-fast-planet-average https://www.reuters.com/article/business/environment/australia-temperatures-rising-faster-than-rest-of-the-world-official-report-idUSKBN0L02P7/ https://www.nature.com/articles/s43247-022-00498-3

I have many qualfications but the ones most pertinent to this matter are 3 eye tests in the last 10 years and my vision was confirmed as 20-20 with my glasses, which I wear all the time. I also had an IQ test and scored 142.

Try Google: https://www.google.com/search?q=which+footballers+died+on+live+tv+between+2020+and+2023&client=tablet-android-samsung-ss&hs=o0M&sca_esv=bd994f6720ac3641&sxsrf=ANbL-n69V2gDWFzZz4art8ENSShqcjL6hg%3A1776122975879&ei=X3zdafarNdeehbIP7__r8A8&biw=1204&bih=579&ved=0ahUKEwi217fY_euTAxVXT0EAHe__Gv4Q4dUDCBM&uact=5&oq=which+footballers+died+on+live+tv+between+2020+and+2023&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiN3doaWNoIGZvb3RiYWxsZXJzIGRpZWQgb24gbGl2ZSB0diBiZXR3ZWVuIDIwMjAgYW5kIDIwMjMyBRAhGKABMgUQIRifBUibxQFQugpY1rwBcAF4AJABAJgBvgWgAc8qqgELMjcuMTkuMS42LTG4AQPIAQD4AQGYAiygAuEqwgIKEAAYRxjWBBiwA8ICCBAAGIAEGKIEwgIIECEYoAEYwwTCAgYQABgHGB7CAgsQABiABBiKBRiGA8ICChAhGAoYoAEYwwTCAgQQIRgKwgIEECEYFcICBxAhGAoYoAHCAggQABiJBRiiBMICBRAAGO8FmAMAiAYBkAYIkgcLMTEuMzEuMS41LTGgB9vJAbIHCzEwLjMxLjEuNS0xuAfXKsIHCDAuOS4zMy4yyAfMAYAIAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Instead of giving us stupid phone screenshots, just give us the link, then we can see everything and study as we please,

You had better tell the audiance whether you had anything to do with administering covid jabs, just to put your comment in context.

The organisation that administered the vaccines funded that research. TV news presenters and footballers were dropping dead in front of our eyes in 21/22 - strange that it never happened before or after. It must have been climate change if it wasn't the vaccine, or maybe the Russians.

My bike's been going for 12 years. It's brilliant. It will be landfill one day after the worms have eaten my flesh. If you stick with standard Chinese stuff, your ebike can last forever.

If yours has the Ion system with Ion written on the LCD, the system is locked. When it works, it's very good, but when it stops working, you're pretty well knackered. Onbike in Worcester sold them, so if you have any questions, give them a call. When the bike packs up, there is always something you can do to keep it going if you're handy with a soldering iron.

As Neal says, it's dodgy sending a battery by post. You can send it by some couriers if you make an arrangement, but they will insist on the appropriate dangerous goods labelling and suitable packaging.

How many test riders do they have? There are only about 50 employees. They can't all be test riders.