DavePat

Expensive peanuts the skateboard was 900 quid. And illegal ? Been discussed before no doubt.

Thanks trex, when I get my repairs done after bank holiday Mondays tumble I might start to collect some data on my rides and see if it makes any sense over time. I tend to have 2 favoured routes and I appreciate a number of factors all play a part in discharge.

After my last ride on the Woosh Sirocco CD with the 15AH Battery I had covered 26 miles. I checked the battery voltage and it was 36.4 V, I then fully charged it and it was 42.2 V. The LCD indicator on the bike and the lights on the battery never seem to be consistent indicators of how much battery I have used. I have never yet flattened the battery but the longest trip so far was only about 36 miles. Any way to use the voltage drop as an indicator of what's left, I guess it is not a linear relationship? I tried to google the info without success or anything I could understand anyway. I know someone has the answer. Dave

Yes I can confirm I was braking at the time but not hard. I have always tightened cams as hard as possible in the past , tending to overtighten then backing off to the point where I can actually close the cam. Maybe I am just unlucky with wheels as I had one come off the front of my Austin Maxi about 30 years ago. I was on my way from the garage where they had been working on the brakes, so I was blameless. Hopefully another 30 years to the next event.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I will give the bike a clean up at the weekend check nothing is bent and change the skewer for good measure. I doubt it was tampered with it must have come loose somehow. Anyway this is a learning experience, never had a wheel come loose before but not had disc brakes before either. Had the Woosh for 2 years now with no problems but only done about 1100 miles so far.

I am sure I read recently on the forum about a potential danger with disc brakes and quick release skewers. Well in the middle of my usual 26 mile N Tyneside scenic ride yesterday on The Mighty Woosh I was left in this situation after I had picked myself out of the ditch. With good luck I avoided the horsesh*t, just some scratches and scrapes and bruising. Lucky it wasn't on the road, there is a steep hill with a sharp left onto N Shields Fish Quay earlier on my ride, RobF will know the one, if it happened there it would not have been pleasant. Also with luck the wheel was OK, the electrics were OK, it was a bit of a fiddle to get the wheel back in the forks though and I gingerly rode the last 10 miles home. I need to give the bike a good inspection but I don't think anything is bent and I don't know if the QR skewer had come loose with vibration or if some tow rag had fiddled with it during my coffee stop. Here is the question, do I reverse the skewer, replace the skewer with a new one or can I fit a non QR type?

Flagged this up originally as it seemed quite a rare E Bike, PG Bikes BlackBlock, about €5000. There were a few places hiring various e bikes then, late 2013, but didn't hire any.

Well not all LBS are anything to write home about, they can talk rubbish though and not necessarily over a cup of coffee. My friend has an AVE CH Tour with the Transz X front hub. Beginning of the summer she had a LBS change the tyres to some a bit more grippy on trails than the standard road tyres. Reasonable charge but she had to take it straight back as the tyres were catching on the mudguards. Over the summer it’s not been delivering the power smoothly and looking at threads on the forum there is a 2nd calibration needing done if your remove the wheels, this involves a 10kg weight on the right pedal. Tried to help her with this but still getting wrong readings so she decided LBS with experience of electric bikes was the best option. She took the bike to a different LBS who also hire ebikes, seems they were not familiar with roller brakes like the one on the Nexus rear hub, they thought there was a serious issue as it would not back pedal??? So they sent it to another LBS with more experience to look at this and check the 2 sensors and recalibrate. This other LBS just happened to be the one who fitted the new tyres in the first place and left her with the problem. Charged her 55 quid in the end, if I had room in the garage I would have had a go myself but she thought the pros would get the job sorted quickly, took them a week between the 2 shops to do the job. The internet won’t fix your bike? It’s a good resource though to help fix your own as is this forum.

Saw this while on holiday in Tenerife last year, not posted it previously as not been logged in to Forum. Owner not present but one of his friends remarked that it was pretty quick.

I posted this last year as I had bought the Thule Europower. http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/nose-weight-and-tow-bar-mounted-cycle-racks.14709/#post-187992 The Thule is solid and should last for years but as I mentioned too heavy to lift and put on the car for my friend Pam. She bought the Wilko one for her car which is fine but we have not put both bikes on it yet. The instructions were not that clear, OK if you read Dutch. The clamp is a bit fiddly to tighten up and I have ordered a new socket and ratchet wrench for Pam. For less than half the price of the Thule though its a bargain.

You did not mention your weight which could be important. I wanted to throw another bike into the mix, the Woosh Zephyr CD. I leave it to the guys with more experience of folders than me, I don't have any, to give the pluses and minuses. The battery, being in the frame, is not removable to reduce the handling weight which may be a concern.

I have the old Sirocco CD and changed the rear gears to an 11-34T cassette. It will climb any hill I have tried so far, some pretty steep but maybe not that long. It does not fly up hills though if thats what you were expecting but it is better than the typical hub bikes I have tried. I took off the throttle when I changed the grips and the biggest problem on hills for me is starting off halfway up a hill. The power does not kick in until a couple of crank revolutions and even in the 34T cog I cannot get started on steep hills. From your comments I don't think any of the standard electric bikes will give you what you want, maybe a Xipi would fit the bill if inside your budget. The Sirocco CD will do 25 on the flat if you derestrict it and put in a bit of effort too, mine is set back to standard now but I did fiddle with the settings out of interest.

Absolutley correct. The old throttle was in a box in the garage, the connector on the bike is taped up. Its the brakes that are 2 pin, I know as they keep coming disconnected so I am used to seeing them. I see a similar connector on BMS Battery along with a thumb throttle for a few quid, probably cost more for the postage.

Without the magnet on the wheel it does not register the mph, I just got a spare and put it on the new wheel so it is easy to swap wheels if necessary. The twist grip throttle I removed has a little 2 pin connector are these pretty standard? I want to add a thumb throttle but would prefer to keep the original equipment to reinstal when I sell it on.

Well after much trial, tribulation and cursing I finally managed to put an 11-34T cassette on my Sirocco CD. I got the cassette from SJS Cycles and bought a complete new rear wheel including similar Kenda tyre on Ebay, the original wheel is a freewheel not freehub. Needed a spacer as the new Freehub was an 8/9 one but the indexing works fine and no probs with the 34T cog, there is a big jump though from 24T to 34T. A quick 2 mile tryout with it unrestricted, temporary of course on a quiet stretch, fet the power cut out at 25mph. I didnt have a long steep hill on the route but one bank I did try was ok in 24T and spinning a bit much for me in 34 so I guess on a really steep hill it will do the business. I took the throttle off when I first got the bike so cannot comment on that, maybe a thumb throttle is next to help in hill starting. I was a bit unsure about the quick release skewers on the new wheel as the shorter axles only go half way through the thick dropouts but I guess this is OK. Typical of my dithering with the whole process. I probably need to fine tune the gear adjustment as there is a bit of jitteriness and clunking in top gear. Should get a decent run out at the weekend and see how it performs. Thanks D8veh for the advice on a couple of threads.

I have a Woosh CD and done about 400 miles so far, not much in last month due to a bug then a couple of weeks holiday. It is heavy if you need to manhandle it anytime especially with a couple of panniers on. But, it will get you just about anywhere you want to go. I have done several trips of almost 40 miles on mixed routes and it is easy on battery life not even close to running out. Went to the Peak district for 4 days and it coped with the hills and trails no problem. My friend Pam has a hub driven bike and struggled on some hills, we swapped bikes and she left me behind. I took off the throttle, changed the grips and added bar ends for more comfort on longer trips. My grouse has always been the gearing, not long enough for on the flat, the new ones have 8 gears and a wider spread. I am currently going through some trials and tribulations trying the change my gears so I am jealous of any owners of the revised bike. I hope this is useful, Dave

"Without buying a Nuvinci, you can buy a normal cassette wheel complete with a 11/34 cassette on Ebay for not very much." I should have read this a little more closely............ a 7sp 11-34T cassette is not quite as rare as hens teeth as I first thought, I tracked one down at SJS cycles. The problem I found when I wanted to change the cassette is that the rear wheel on the Woosh Sirocco CD is a freewheel not a freehub. With my limited knowledge I thought they were last century and outdated. So back to the problem, look for 11-34T for the freewheel which do seem as rare as hens teeth or try to find the cassette wheel as D8veh originally suggested and I misunderstood. I will trawl Ebay but if anyone can point me in the right direction for either option it would be appreciated. I have an old Diamond Back MTB and tried the back wheel on the Woosh but the skewers seem just a bit short is this likely to be my next snag if I buy a new wheel? Dave

I did not give any feedback after my Peak District trip after first using the Thule Europower back in June. Well the nose weight I was concerned of complying with was not a problem in the slightest, there was no handling issue with the IX35 which handles like a boat in any case. The towbar is heavy though as is applying the clamping force, my friend Pam is not confident of using the towbar on her own with her car because of both these points. She has an AVE Tour. But the rack is sturdy and strong and gives you confidence on the road. A little niggle is the wheel strap on the rear picks up oil from the chain every time and you end up with black stripes on you hands when you forget. There is only one locking cross bar clamp but luckily I had one on an old thule bike rack so now both lock, different keys of course. I wonder about the security of the towbar clamp as it uses a standar Thule Key and I wonder how many variations of that there are? Dave

If anyone was daft enough to spend that kind of money upgrading a Woosh CD what sort of sprocket and chain ring combo would work well? The currrent 14-28 cassette (I thiink) does not give much variation compared to say the 12-34 of the newer 8 gear models and the banging gear change is a bit concerning . To be honest it has managed everything I have tried so far on and offroad but a bit of overdrive / longer gearing would be great. Dave

David I bought the Thule Europower 916 Friday last week when I had my towbar fitted so I may have missed a bargain, but I do have 2 ebikes to carry. I suggest to post a photo here or start a new thread offering the cycle carrier. The model number is best as it can be looked up on the Thule website for the spec. Dave

Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions. I had a Witter towbar fitted which has shown no problems of being picked up by the parking sensors. The removable one would have been an extra 100 quid. The company I used do an Internet price match for the Thule 916 so I bought that one, the others were a bit cheaper but convenient to pick it up when the car was done. Lynda, it is not just the weight of the 2 bikes you need to consider for the towbar loading but the cycle rack too, which is 18.4 kg. The Woosh Sirocco CD weighs in at just over 24 kg without the battery which weighs 4.4kg if that is of interest to anyone. Hopefully off to the peak district this week to give everything a good try out. Dave

Hi Emile, Nice looking bike and Subtle Orange is a great name for a colour option. That should go down very well in the Netherlands. Dave

David, Can you give some details about the towbar mounting carrier, regards Dave

Thanks for all of the comments, everyone in agreement as usual. I got in touch with customer service at Hyundai as the whole scenario is a bit daft really and this is their comment which I hope is helpful to anyone else with a similar query. The nose weight of a 1.7cc IX35 is 50Kg and a 2.0cc is 80Kg, however this is in relation to towing. The nose weight calculation is worked out on the trailer weight the only reason the 2.0cc IX35 nose weight is 30Kg more is because it can tow more and this is due to the engine size, everything else is the same. As your are not towing, the load on the tow bar hitch can be increased, 60Kg will be fine. So out with the scales to weigh a Sirocco CD and AVE CH tour without the batteries. Just need some advice on a Tow Bar cycle carrier, maybe the Thule Europower one is more than I need but I suppose that is another topic.

Here is my problem and I am hoping someone can give me some sound advice. I have a 1.7 TDCI Hyundai IX35, manufacturer says the nose weight/ tow bar load max is 50kg, the 2 litre's is 80kg. I want to carry 2 e bikes, I guess 50 kg in total, and propose to fit a tow bar and buy a Thule Europower 916 rack, 18 kg. So the total load on the tow bar is 68kg. As I understand it I should not do this as I am exceeding the manufaturer recommendations which I assume were taking towing into consideration rather than a tow bar mounted cycle rack. Am I going to have to change the car to carry 2 bikes?