jwm

jwm submitted a new listing: [plain]Electric cargo bike[/plain] - [plain]Electric cargo bike[/plain] Learn more about this listing...

Size and getting it to sit central John

Check the PAS disc, though it seems like a realy secure fit when you first put it on, it works loose. I also find (I have the same kit) that dirt etc from the bridlepath I use clogs up around the disk and jams it up, leading to no PAS until you clean it off; I have now glued mine in position to stop this happening. The speed sensor on this kit is odd as once it hits the preset limit it stops telling you your actual speed... so not really useful once you have pedaled past 15.5mph. John

does it creek under throttle with no chain on? John

1) Is the led easy to remove? I will lock the bike outside sometimes and I know from experience people will still anything however useless it might be to them. Not really, though anything can be taken off just depends how rough someone wants to b 2)Is it possible to get an led spare? I don't see it on the kudos website. Its a standard unit - King meter type, not sure why you would want though 3)Is it possible to get batteries with a longer range? 10.X ah battery is max, but you can get spares to carry, they are not particularily heany. Though the range is pretty good 4) This might be a stupid question but is it possible to ride the secret in the rain? Absolutely 5) I see they they no longer have the transport bag. Anyone have any suggestions about an alternative transport bag? Sorry never had a bag for ours, they are compact and tidy, so not sure you would need a bag for communting etc regards John

The frame is metal, so it bends. Lever it, use nuts on threaded bar etc, heat it or whatever else. Take your time and it will be fine. Any manaufacturer is likely to say they "don't suport it", bla, blah as you'd expect. Have a search there are plenty of examples on the forum. John

Is that a lever the other side (can be seen on the left hand side of vid)? If it is, you need to lever that off first then adjust. You may need locking or pump pliers. Alternatively cut it off and put something else on. I think it would be unusual just one retainer to hold the headset. John

Well done. 'feel a bit of a fool', don't be, we have all been there either in missing the technique, breaking someothing or seeking advice to avoid the chance of breaking something. Did you pop any copper grease on the threads as I find this helps when you come to service or replace the pedals? John

Most things are posible though it's the cost. Your target averaging 15mph followed by a 10-14 hour shift is challenging...I'd not want to turn up for a long shift after a knackering ride, particularily not day after day. Have you tried a run on a normal bike? You can carry a spare battery with the extra weight and cost offset. I do a thirteen miles each way on the flat though, for me it's the traffic , junctions and lights that kill the average despite putting plenty of leg work in. Sorry it's not much help, just other considerations. John

... best value is pedalling a bit harder

I wouldn't worry about them, looks like there is loads of life left. I find once the centre tread has worn away, I then start getting punctures, after a couple I replace them. I use Big apple plusses, they tend to get to a stage where the glass starts to work it's way through the additional rubber strip on the inside. Unless you nip a sidewall and you always keep any tyre at a reasonable pressure they shouldn't be an issue. Indeed Conti's I find look terrible with the sidewalls cracking after a couple of months, but this doesn't seem to weaken them again you can ride them untill the orange inner rubber becomes exposed. John

Take the pedal/final drive shaft out and clean/grease bearings, this is where the water ends up. Just redone mine after 6000 miles, and replaced most of the bearings for a couple of quid each. Two bearings were knackered. I replaced mine as the clutch/freewheel had gone. Prior to this I'd always greased externally to reduce water ingress and the final drive big cog. That said I ride almost every day year round so takes a bit of a beating. Only thing I struggled with was one of the thrust bearings which I can't find a replacement for except China @ £20+, sod's law I only noticed after I ordered the freewheel. For now I have just packed plenty of grease in Na dtightened the two nuts to hold everyhing ion place. John

Looks good, the ability to take a rack is a must, though most producers put a pointless rounded one on the bike which is difficult to get a pannier to clip on without fouling the pedal motion (and I only have small feet). So something sat towards the back of the wheel with straight rails. There will be a lot of stress on the joint and though the locking mechanisms are much better than they were, most still creak with use (I currently have a ten - lock is good and solid but still creaks when dirt gets in). I don't know if a gasket or coating can be added. Whilst the front cog looks like it will offer a decent turn of speed with a folder it's quite open to bangs and general dirt when handling. Ideally an option for hub gears would be great, combined with a chainglider it would reduce all the mess from a city or canal path type grime. If the target market is for city city integrated lights would be useful to reduce loss from theft, however any longer distant users would wan't something with a bit more umph. Stick some Big Apple Plus' on as standard! John

it's the first thing I put the bolt croppers through, I've never seen the point of them, pannier bags and bungees all the way! John

yep too close, rather typical though of everyday riding experience; best ones are when drivers pull over into the cycle lanes. I don't buy the unintentional, ignorance isn't an excuse when you are driving a vehicle. John