mw1

Hi Personally I detest those OE connector blocks! The neatest & most reliable solution IMO is to cut all the wires, then solder them back together according to colour / thickness, with some appropriate shrink tube for each wire, and a larger diameter over the whole lot once satisfied that all the wiring is present & correct. Old Cyclamatics never die, they just get modded... They have a good, reliable motor ( maybe not the gruntiest, I grant you ), & age shouldn't be an issue if you keep on top of the basics. Mark

Hi Rob, Glad it's all sorted once and for all now That contact at Urban Mover could come in handy as I have a few UM10 controllers with LCD display , that came without the speed sensors. I have a "universal" speed sensor to try out, but may need some pointers! (Unless anyone here knows how to do it...) All the best, Mark

Is it one of these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282485052764 Regards Mark

Or, as you have already ordered a chain, order another one the same & make one of the correct length out of the two. Mark

Hi Lee, Welcome to the forum Regards Mark

Hi, The 18/21/24 means the number of gears when matched to a triple chainset at the front. Pretty much any chain will be up to the job. This is what I just ordered for a Coyote Connect, and don't foresee any problems with it: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231880818946 Hope this helps. Regards Mark

Hi Rob, What reading,if any, are you getting from the output terminals? It's possible that there is one or more weak cells causing the bms not to allow charging, or the bms isn't working for some other reason. If you dismantle the case and take readings from the bms where the connector attaches the sense wires to it, that should give you an idea of the health of the cells, or where the problem may be. There's lots on the forum on the subject (including my own recent questions ). Always happy to help if I can:) Regards, Mark

Hi Rob, If you haven't sorted a new charger plug yet, how about this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162440632513 Regards Mark

Hi Louise, I live in Hull & am happy to help in any way I can. PM sent. Regards, Mark

Hi. Can't help you with redistricting your bike, but the 5 wires to the throttle thing is possibly because 2 are for battery state LEDs or an on/off switch? Regards, Mark

Hi Danielle, I live in Hull & am willing to help in any way I can. PM sent. Regards Mark

Hi D8veh, Apologies for taking my time to get back to you, hardly had a chance to get on with it. Unplugging it didn't have any effect, but in the process of doing so I was getting flashes of c 42v. It seemed to be when the BMS had some pressure on it or was being slightly flexed but couldn't get it to sustain the reading. To cut a long story short I swapped the BMS for another one, and all's good Did another battery with the same symptoms too. Thanks for your help, it certainly got me on the right track. Kind regards, Mark

Here is where the measurements were taken from - And a pic of the BMS. Hope they're clear enough. Would I be able to put 36v from another battery into the BMS to switch it on? Mark

Hi again, The voltages I'm getting are 4.2,,8.4,,12.6,,16.7,,21.1,,25.3,,29.5,,33.7,,38,,42.2. So can't see where the problem lies.... Mark

Thanks D8veh, will do. Mark

Hi, yeah it had a new one in it, but I changed it again & checked the original,lol, all good so it's not that. Mark

Hi all. I have a battery that only shows 18.8v at the output wires, yet when I opened it up expecting to find low readings on some of the cells, all the readings seem fine. So, if the readings are all good before going through the BMS, does that mean the BMS is the culprit, or am I missing something? Thanks in advance for any help. Regards, Mark

Sorry. Posted twice by mistake. Oops

Hi Dawn, Welcome to the forum. Would double throw over panniers be suitable? You could maybe use a bungee cord or two to secure them, as you want something that's quick and easy to take on / off for shopping. As far as lights go, there are a few threads on here on the subject. Good luck in your search Regards, Mark

Welcome to the forum Rikk Regards, Mark

A comment taken from that link - Mungecrundle [615 posts] 4 months ago 44 likes No gentleman of breeding would be caught cross chaining. I say it is symptomatic of the general decline in the standards of modern society. End quote. LOVE IT!!! Mark

Hi. Being a brushless motor, you can't power it up directly - it has to be through a controller. I think you would probably damage it by trying. Regards, Mark Here's a reply from D8veh I got a while back regarding a similarly wired motor I have : d8vehPedelecer The three thin wires are for a speed sensor or temperature sensor. If it has red and black wires, they'll be the 5v supply and the third wire is the signal. If the signal is a fixed voltage, it's a temperature sensor. if it pulses it's a speed sensor. Hope this helps.

Hi Rob, Glad you got the UM going again. I haven't found a plug like that as yet, but will keep looking. Though it just occurred to me - is that the same as the one in your old cyclamatic battery? If so,maybe you could take it out & attach it to the cable from the charger? Just a thought... Regards, Mark

Got a 28" wheel Dutch ebike into a Renault Clio hatchback recently, with the front wheel removed, no problem☺.

Here's another new Cyclamatic I came across ...(at least I've not seen one before) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302199236660 Mark