Will

Well its a Lithium, would need to see if it has any other details written on it, what did you want to know?

Oops forgot haha, here's a pic

or near offer

Complete kit including 26 inch rear wheel, controller, 48V lithium battery pack, rack, throttle speedometer/odo/charge indicator (with night illumination) plus pedal sensor, and a few other bits and bobs. I had it installed in a mountain bike for a bit, did less than 200 miles on it because I bought an electric car. I have taken the bits back off the bike and put them back in the original box they came in. I paid about 700 for this kit, selling for £425 Being 1000W this is not legal for road use, I was able to do 23mph without pedalling, so bit of a giveaway. Good fun on private land of course. I had the battery mounted on the back of the bike which made it very unbalanced, I would highly recommend putting the battery in the frame or at the front somewhere for better handling. Collection from Sussex/Surrey RH19 . Could investigate courier options. I will try to get a pic of the stuff tomorrow.

Well my update is I bought an electric car, and I took that kit back off the bike and have not got around to doing anyhting with it. If anyone wants to buy the kit off me give me a shout.

Have you tried ringing them (Australia)?

yes my problems is the magnet disc does not fit in the tiny gap between the pedal crank arm and the frame. Quite like the idea of a torque sensor, (replacement pedal shaft thing) I have seen torque sensors for sale on a website (BMS?) unsure if compatible with the rest of my kit though.

So you made the graph by writing down the numbers and entering them manually into a graph program?

Is the battery Lithium Ion, or Lithium Polymer? Dilleger's website says ' the very latest Lithium Ion polymer battery ' The battery case itself says 'Lithium Ion' Just curious as to what it actually is exactly.

What is this tester, is it a computer connected multimeter / scope or something?

Want to make my bike handle better and be safer so looking to get the battery nearer the bottom bracket, like in the main frame triangle. The battery pack is currently above the rear wheel and is 480Wh . Does not fit in the frame, wondering if anyone had dismantled one of these and made it a different shape ? Buying a different battery is out of the question really since most of the cost of the conversion kit was the battery. Other option is to modify the frame to make a space for the battery. I don't relish doing either but I got to do it somehow.

Torque is force x distance. If I have a 1 foot spanner, and I put 10 lbs of force on it to undo a rusty nut on a long thread , I've applied 10 FOOT POUNDS of torque. POWER is torque times speed. So if it takes me 1 minute to undo the nut, and someone else does the same job in 30 seconds, using the same amount of torque, but at a higher moving speed, they have more power. So power is a better measurement for bikes, and it should also be the same more or less whether measured at the crank or at the wheel because as either the torque or speed increases via gears, the other decreases making the power work out the same. Its actually a similar thing when you think about it to the battery. Watt Hours is a good way to compare batts. Amps is your torque, (Amp hours is torque over a period of time) Volts is your speed of your electricity, together you know the power so you know how much work it will do. (10Ah x 48v on my bike is 480 Wh)

Well a little update, I was actually able to use one of the stays to beef up the rear rack. it JUST fitted round the seat tube and it has made the rack much firmer. Bike still a handful when getting on and off, IE when you lie it over to get on, the front wheel leaps up in the air due to the heavy high battery. Tightened spokes . Took for nice ride including a long hill. Quite pleased with the performance. Been using mostly electric not much pedalling to give me a 'worst case scenario' on the range. Started to cut out under load at about 13 miles . Lasts a couple more miles if gentle on the power and pedal a bit. Total time 66 minutes. I'm glad it doesn't just shut off and stay off like my cordless drill does! I still don't have the pedal sensor installed because the gap between my frame and the crank isn't quite wide enough for the magnet wheel to fit. Removing the crank and grinding the back of it down might help. So on throttle only, it is a little strange because it seems to regulate the bike according to speed, rather than power. What I mean is, if you hold the throttle at a point that gives you 10mph, if you start pedalling, rather than it making the bike speed up, it reduces the motor assistance. So you end up having to synchronise the throttle movement precisely with your pedal effort. Too much throttle, it goes faster than you want and your pedalling does nothing, too little throttle and your pedalling does most of the work and the motor is doing almost nothing as it is waiting for the speed to fall down to the prescribed figure set by your throttle. The assistance setting on the LCD seems to do nothing so that must only be for the pedal movement sensor. Overall fairly pleased at choosing this kit, glad I didn't go for anything lower powered or smaller battery as I wouldn't want anything less. This setup will get me around locally with ease. In other news, I picked up a better bike at my local bike shop that a customer had traded in as it needed a lot of work to the rear end, IE axle etc , its a hard tail ali frame bike. Some say not ideal for Ewheel but I might try it. It has cable disc brakes and as a massive bonus, some Schwalbe road pattern puncture resistant tyres with plenty of life left. Couldn't really say no for ten pounds! I think I have the electric biking bug!

Yes that post rack came in the kit. There were some braces suppled but they would only work on a fixed rear end bike.

The electrical connections seem of high quality. We fired this thing up in no time. First impressions are: Bike is very unweidly, very back heavy. Takes a lot of effort to pedal due to both the extra weight (approx 18kg I believe) but there is noticable drag from the motor which I was surprised about. Power is just about right. Its not going to reverse the rotation of the earth when you crank the thottle open but its enough to haul my fat 16 stone ass to 23 mph on the flat (motor only) . When you pedal this bike, the side to side motion sets up a pendulum effect with the battery where it is, and it just highlights how unstable the machine is with no weight on the front . Will investigate alternative mounting place for battery nearer the front to improve handling. The battery has small Anderson type connector plugs so making an extension cable ought to be easy. The gearing of this bike even in top gear is quite low, making it rather difficult to add any speed to the motor only top speed. Larger crank sprocket would definately help here. The rear wheel creaks a lot. The spokes seem quite strained where they pass over each other and this may have something to do with all the creaking noises. None seem loose but I will ask Dillenger if they think I should tighten them. I had considered putting something like a slither of rubber in the place where the spokes cross. I tried the bike on some hills on the farm tracks around here and it is a lovely feeling being almost silently whisked up the hill at 14 or so MPH. I might change the bike for one with space in the middle frame triangle for the battery. I wanted the full suspension as I figured safer at speed, and I live down a bumpy track and figured the electrical components would get quite a beating on a no suspension bike, particuarly the back, with all the weight there, I'd be worried about overloading the rear wheel or shocking the battery mount and fracturing it, or damaging the controller unit. Maybe it won't be an issue with some of the weight put at the front. I'd have been tempted to get a front wheel kit but they were out of stock. I will try to get a few more pics and update any improvements I make and also give a range test report.