June 26, 201312 yr Tried to adjust my rear V-brakes today, I just couldn't seem to get it right. The trouble is the wheel is slightly out of true, moving approximately 1-2mm side to side. I can adjust the pads so that they clear the rim and don't rub as the wheel rotates, but then I can't get enough braking force to stop safely. [ATTACH]6155.vB[/ATTACH] Without resorting to a rear disc brake setup, can I upgrade or replace the V-brake with something that will in effect amplify the brake lever input, thus allowing me to set the pads further away from the rim?
June 26, 201312 yr You could buy a spoke key and true the wheel up, is not a difficult job if its only out by 1-2mm. Are both halves of the v brake moving equally? sometimes the tension of the springs is uneven and needs adjusted so both pads pull away from the rim properly when you release the brake. One other thing to check is that you have a proper v brake lever on your handlebars some levers do not give the large cable travel necessary for a v brake Alternatively you could change to a cantilever brake but you would need to fit a rear cable hanger to support the outer cable SHIMANO CANTILEVER BIKE BRAKE ONE PAIR BR-CT91R | eBay CENTRE PULL 60/70
June 26, 201312 yr Author One other thing to check is that you have a proper v brake lever on your handlebars some levers do not give the large cable travel necessary for a v brake SHIMANO CANTILEVER BIKE BRAKE ONE PAIR BR-CT91R | eBay CENTRE PULL 60/70 When I read your reply, I realised the probable cause of the problem, the brake levers of course. I changed both over from the Specialized originals to e-brake levers. Mmmmm, might just have a bash at trying to dial out that wobble with a spoke key
June 27, 201312 yr Author Slightly off track but keeping on the wheel theme. I occasionally break the odd spoke at the threaded nipple end. It snaps right at the bit where it enters the nipple. Over tight spokes or something more mysterious?
June 27, 201312 yr Yeah - sounds like you have non ebrake levers. Put your old levers up and rig up a switch on the original rear brake (you only really need it on the rear brake - well at least if you're braking properly!). http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/9442-new-build-11.html#post163831 or fit a "hidden wire" brake sensor:- HWBS - Hidden Wire Brake Sensor 1pcs - BMSBATTERY
June 27, 201312 yr Slightly off track but keeping on the wheel theme. I occasionally break the odd spoke at the threaded nipple end. It snaps right at the bit where it enters the nipple. Over tight spokes or something more mysterious? Maybe a case of the nipple and spoke threads corroding and seizing together?
June 27, 201312 yr Author Maybe a case of the nipple and spoke threads corroding and seizing together? No, I don't think corrosion is the issue. I occasionally give the nipples a quick squirt of MUC OFF bike spray, just to protect them. I've heard that it's common for spokes to snap at the axle end due to the bend in the metal, but not at the rim end.
June 27, 201312 yr I've found spoke breakages occur at either end. At the hub flange end it's often an indication of unsuitable hole size or flange profile, at the rim end against the nipple it can be an indication of poor spoke quality or thread type. Spoke threads should always be rolled, not cut with a die which weakens the spoke.
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